Need to clean up threads on axle

[Huffa]

Yamaha 200 axle

One side has a slight burr on the very edge and the nut goes on hard. I don't want to force it on and ruin it any more then it is. It is very minor. The nut is brand new.

It (the axle) is 3/4 " diameter and fine thread. Not sure what metric size that converts to?

Where do I find a metric thread chaser for this or must I buy a whole kit?

[kando]

If its just a slight burr on the edge just use a flat file on a 45 degree angle to clean out the inside of the threads.

[Huffa]

Well evidently it's more then just a burr because the nut goes on about 30% of the way then turns hard. I tried also turning it one more rotation and you can feel it's just not right.

I tried filing it (the edge) also with no success .

[jenndnn3]

Brand new nut pefect. Chase it with the nut. You put it on, screw tight, take it 2 more rotations, then back it off. Check the threads on the nut. The nut will change the threads, till lined up. Keep doing that till you get a good threading(? good way to put this?). It will slowly work it's way down the threading.

[erectordale]

put the nut on backwards while chasing the threads this will let any little shavings that is created fall out of the way I also use a little oil. have done this for yrs and works great

[hrc85250r]

dude, go to the hardware store and get a thread file, they are triangle shaped, and work awesome....it will fix it up good...

[350x'inNY]

You sure you got the correct axle nut?

[sblt500r]

probably a M20 X 1.5 thats the metric size thats about 3/4 and fine thread. but there are 2 other sizes M20 x 2, and M20 x 2.5 which are courser.

[deathman53]

I agree with hrc, go and buy a thread file, snap-on sells a real nice one for about $10. It saved many swingarm bolts for me and three axle ends.

[350x'inNY]

probably a M20 X 1.5 thats the metric size thats about 3/4 and fine thread. but there are 2 other sizes M20 x 2, and M20 x 2.5 which are courser.

Yep.... that's what the Yamaha Servive Manual lists for the 200E rear axle... Interesting, on page 26 of the YTM200ERN supplement to the manual, it shows 2 drawings of the axle nuts... "Type A and Type B" Type A has a thin washer...210 Nm torque.... Type B has that thick washer, and only a 145 Nm spec....

Bruce

[Huffa]

I bought 2 brand new nuts and washers. Instead of the "fingers" for the cotter pin these have the lock down plastic insert.

I like the "finger" job better. That CAN'T come loose a bit. The other type that I have can back off at least 2 to 3 turns before it hits the cotter pin.

Thanks all for your suggestion and some I have tried already but I think I like the file tool idea the best for this situation.

I don't think on this type of nut with plastic lock insert it's a good idea to try and put it on backwards to chase threads but that's good info reguardless.

Now that I think of it I could put another washer in front of nut but I'm sure I won't have any trouble the way it's set up. I'm not the type to ride,ride,ride and never check things.

[TheOlderFox]

I use a diamond file with a good edge. Start on the good threads so you get the right track and keep going. The best is if you can get someone to help you. Hold the file and have someone spin the axle. That way you can keep the "pitch" the same on the file. It works, or go buy a die for it.

[bigredhead]

how about a pipe cutter !!!!

If one was to put the cutting wheel into the thread and simple work the way out without too much tension.. it would re-cut the threads !!

might mess up the cutting disk.. but they are cheap !