Quick question on auto quad snapped a belt

[jenndnn3]

Is this called a centrifucal (I cant even spell that word) clutch? Its an auto, like that of a snowmobile, runs with the belt inside. Anyway we snapped our belt. Before it snapped the quad would semi surge (or engage) forward in idle. Is there a way to stop this surging, which we believe lead to the snapping of the belt. I really have no idea where to go. Or how to if possible adjust this. And please dont tell me to buy a manual they are not available. If you could simply walk me through with a little detial that would be great thank you Jen

[MIK6]

Jenn... More info would be great. I have a few autoquads and the P3. W/ some more info I might be able to help.

MIK6 / Mike

[jenndnn3]

I just really dont know how to explian this. The main belt inside engine is shredded. We think it was because the mini wanted to engage at idle. I could get picts? I am hoping there is a way to adjust the wheels that hold the belt to stop this.

[smokinwrench]

Friends of mines 500 scrambler was eating drive belts all the time. He found that the insides of the pulleys had nicks in them from running it through deep water and getting mud inside of it. I would check to make sure the pulleys are smooth.

[TimSr]

The rear pulley assembly is the centrifugal clutch assembly. The front pulley is the variator.

The variator uses weighted rollers that spin outward centrifugally and control what RPM the drive belt stays engaged in a certain position (gearing) on the pulley when you accelerate. A stuck or flat sided roller can cause it to surge during idle.

The centrifugal clutch has clutch shoes that spin outward centrifugally and engage a drum to grab and take off. This clutch pretty much engages or lets go, with little slippage in between. Each shoe has a spring, and the spring tension determines at what RPM your clutch will engage for take off.

The first thing I would do is just replace the belt. Your problems of it surging at idle could simply be from a frayed belt. The next most likely cause, I would take a look at the centrifugal clutch, especially at the clutch shoe springs. If a spring is broken, a show could be dragging at low RPM.

You can also get belt slippage if the big spring that sandwiches the rear pulleys is weak, and any kind of slippage kills a belt, but it usually gets gradually worse over a period of time to where it acts like your putting a load on it, but it acts like it doesnt have the power to move the bike as though you were trying to take off in a high gear on a manual tranny.

What kind of quad is this?

[jenndnn3]

Oh its the ones with the funny carbs. The Kasea's 65.

[TimSr]

Thats what I thought. Looks the same as the E-ton other than the starter gear setup. Probably uses the same belt. Check ebay first. There is a guy goes by Steamoman, and he is supper to deal with, and stuff is dirt cheap. Id replace the belt first, visually check out the clutch while youre in there, (one nut removes the drum) and then see if you still have the pull and surge problems at idle.

[jenndnn3]

I got belt ordered, the hubby is going to freak! $100. Its a gates powerline specialty belt. I went to the local industrial place here (bearings, seals, farm belts and what nots), and they had to call gates whom in turn told them they made it "special" only one place sells the belt. There went my new rims.

I get in about a week and I will do as you say. I did check ebay, I saw no belts, and really wish I had teeth and wheels to deal with.

Thank you for the help everyone!

[TRI Z Racer]

as they all said, visually inspect the clutches and make sure there are no nicks or gouges, also you may want to have a dealer check the clutch alignment, its similar to a snowmobile, if they arnt aligned, they will eat up your new belt in a hurry. also if exerything turns out alright, spray down your clutches with some electro-contact cleaner to get off old burnt belt residue, you may even go so far as to lightly scuff the drive clutch sheeves with some steel wool, gets a little extra bite in the belt for accel. there is tons of info on this type of thing but for snowmobiles, the process is very very similar. hope it helps

[jenndnn3]

Ok this is what I got. There are 3 drum brakes shoes inside of the right wheel thing. 2 that have the tabs completely broke. So I am stuck trying to find new ones. Does anyone know what minis ran this cvt system? I have eton, but maybe others? That way I can hopefully crossreference and maybe replace those brakes? Yes the bellt didnt solve the problem. But after seeing that I knew it wouldnt. The only thing marked on the brake shoes are the numbers 172.5. Handmarked, black marker.

[smokinwrench]

Suzuki LT50, LT80/kawi KFX80, mini polaris quads, I think the Bombardia (sp?)minis run a cvt also. I have been told 17-20 companies use the exact same quad powertrain and just put different plastic on it, in the 90cc version.

Good luck on finding parts.

[TimSr]

The Japanese ones are not compatible, and the Jap 50's dont use CVT. You want one of the Taiwan made ones. E-ton, Polaris, and Kasea are most common but there are a ton of other names too. Look on ebay, as you can get a new aftermarket one (higher rev) a lot cheaper than an OEM one. Lake Motorsports (deals on ebay) has been good to me, and offered great tech support. Also check with Steamoman on ebay, as he has a lot of OEM stuff really cheap.

[jenndnn3]

I have one I am watching with question sent to seller about compatibility, maybe I get lucky? sure looks like the one I have.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4551245965&fromMakeTrack=true

[TimSr]

That one should work. I just bought variator rollers from that guy. Shipped right away and didnt hose me on shipping. At only $8 difference you might want to jump on the Buy It Now. I dont think he's very technically minded though, so if you asked hima technical question, he may not be able to answer.

[jenndnn3]

Tim, I just spent the whole day at 6 different stores, and not one match. I am getting extremely nervous. We even looked into changing the whole sytem over and because of where the splines are located I cant even do that. Kasea splined at front the rest splined at rear?!? Our next option is weld. I just sent him a pm as well. picts and measurement of total width of those shoes. I think I may gamble, $58 or out a quad.

[TimSr]

If it doesnt work you can always resell. You usually end up losing a few bucks in shipping, but its not a total loss. I found a number for Lake's Motorsports. The guy there really knows his stuff, and they sell all the Taiwan aftermarket stuff. Ill bet he carries something for you too. The number is 248-674-0663. Hrs. Mon Wed 8-6, Tues Thur 10-7, Fri 10-6:30, Sat 10-4. They are in MI.

[jenndnn3]

Found a match, we hope! It is in Hawaii. I am trying to convince Brian they dont ship and I need to go pick it up. That isnt working. Anyway, the clutch shoes is $25 or the whole assembly is $75. I am thinking whole assembly. I end up paying a shop to tear it apart for me anyway. It is off some motorscooter/moped. Might be Honda. Not sure yet.