removing a swingarm pivot bolt from 250r

[mikey's250sx]

anyone know how to get out the swingarm pivot bolt? i have the nut off and have been hammering away with a 3 lb sledge and it won't budge. i pulled the shock and want to pull the engine but can't clear the pivot linkage and i can't get the big lower pivot bolt out to move the linkage from the back of the engine. and my clymer was no help.

[bigredhead]

Clymer : Remove bolt and " Slide " axle out !! .... LOL.

Yeah right.

about 100 horror stories about linkage bolts on here.. always a good battle !

oil. heat, hammer.... more heat .. oil time.. heat .. hammerl...

SAWZALL

[mikey's250sx]

sawzall where? between the frame and swingarm? i have seen these bolts go for a kings ranson too so i would like to re-use this one.

[deathman53]

is it down to the frame, engine out, if the rear end is apart and front end and engine out, have the bolt pressed out , this way you won't hurt any parts, the heating, hammer, oil tends to hurt things in the process.

[chris200x]

I have yet to read a post anywhere on these forums where someone easily rermoved one of these bolts. On my 200x I had to saw between the frame and the swinger. And yes the bolts are very expensive. I never worked on an R but I take it that it's necessary to remove the swinger to pull the motor. Am I correct in saying this?

[mn-250r-atc]

that is the same problem i had on my 83r, i wanted to remove the motor to clean everything up and rattle can it but i could not get the swingarm bolt out. i used a air hammer and a sledge hammer but no luck. i wish i could find a swingarm bolt cuz i have a buddy that works in a fabricating shop and said he could make some for cheap if i had one he could go off of. so i am searching. so good luck!

[mikey's250sx]

in my clymer it doesn't say to remove the swinger but i can't rotate the engine out if i don't. the front two engine bosses where the front bolt goes through are wider than the frame so the rear of the engine has to come up and out. well the engine can't move backwards because of the swingarm pivot linkage?(pro-link). i don't see any way to get it out now.

[Ordo]

Haven't had to take the bolt out of mine yet. But have you tried to turn the bolt from the other side to help free it up while hammering it from the nut side? I have done this to bolts on a 60ton press at my work. And it works like a charm. If you can find someone else to turn it while you are hammering. Hope this works for you.

[mikey's250sx]

there isn't a bolt head on the other side. the other side is a rear brake lever.

[Ordo]

there isn't a bolt head on the other side. the other side is a rear brake lever.

Sorry I was thinking of an 85. Are you working on an 84? Not to familiar with the older ones. Post some pic's of both sides and I might be able to be of more help to you.

[mikey's250sx]

i have been pounding on and off for a few hours and have gotten it to move about 1 inch. now the end of the threads are flush with the frame. it is time to sacrifice a deep socket to keep going. i have also been dousing it with penetrating oil every step of the way.

[jeswinehart]

or so i hear anyway for about 60 - 90 bucks.

take your sweet time with it cause they are rare as hens teeth elsewhere.


john

[Ordo]

Now we are getting some where. Is the brake side of the bolt exposed to where you can see what you have driven out? If there is alot of rust on what you can see clean it of with a wire brush or something else. Spray penatrating oil at every point you can get to along the bolt from one end to the other. Now drive the bolt back in like you were putting it together. Just alittle a time. And keep spraying it as you go. But only go about 3/4 of the way back in. Then go back to driving it out. What this process does is when a bolt becomes rusted in, it"s in layers. So the enitial drive of the bolt is quite hard because the layers are compounding on top of each other. When you drive it back in it will allow the compounded layers to loosen and fall into the area that was exposed to the outside. Giving the bolt more area to move with less effort. This method has work numerous times for me.

[hrc85250r]

get a real sledge, not a little 3 lb.... :-)

[mikey's250sx]

i will drive it back in tomorrow and try pounding it out again. i have had lots of ribs and beer recently and have hit my fingers 3 too many times with a hammer. i'm done for the night.
tomorrow i will have the swingarm off and apart and have the engine at the machine shop. by thursday i should have a bare frame at the powdercoaters.

[LonesomeTriZ]

Now where have I seen that R before? :wondering

[mikey's250sx]

this sucker's gonna be a beast when i get through with it . thanks for letting it fill the garage for the past few weeks. the crank has gone through it's first roataion in probably a long time too.

[Trackburger]

I had the exact same problem with mine a few weeks ago, I ended up cutting it witha sawzal, but had to buy all new swing arm components such as dust caps etc...bolt was expensive to buy, but I coated it real good with grease and I plan to maintain it well, so I shouldnt have the problem again. I feel you pain bud!!!

[LonesomeTriZ]

this sucker's gonna be a beast when i get through with it . thanks for letting it fill the garage for the past few weeks. the crank has gone through it's first roataion in probably a long time too.


No problem. I am glad to see it has found a good home. I think she diserved one.

I would suggest getting that bolt pressed out. You can rethread and reuse it then.

[NOS_350X]

I have never damgaed one getting it out, and never used heat. But most the time i dont have a problem pulling them out. Pick your penetrating oil, and spray alot of it, put the nut on backwards so you dont mess up the threads, and beat the he11 out of it with a slege hammer until it comes.

[mikey's250sx]

got it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

lots of oil and i ground a 3/8" center punch down to fit in the hole on the end of the bolt and moved up to a 5 lb sledge with a long handle. no damage at all. now i just have to go out tomorrow and get a flywheel puller to pull the alternator and the engine is off to the shop!!!!

[LonesomeTriZ]

Come on man, show us some photographs of your progress. :Bounce

[mikey's250sx]

i'll put some up after work when i pull the swingarm off and remove the axle. probably should have done that first but my original plan was to leave it together until the weekend except for the engine. all this hassle was just for pulling the engine. the wiring seems complete though on a good note. there's even wiring to the non-existent taillight.

about painting the frame, my original thought was to take it to a local powdercoater and have him do it and the swinger but in my clymer it says just to spray it with a laquer or enamel based paint after priming and then to wax it before re-assembly. have you guys ever rattle canned a frame with good results? powdercoating and cleanup of the frame and swinger will be around 200 bucks. i can rattle it for probably 20 including primer and wax. anyone know what gold would be best for the swinger?

[LonesomeTriZ]

Powder coat that thing. The finish will be a lot tougher. I have spray painted frames when I was low on cash. As long as you prep the surface properly, it will come out nice. But I would suggest powder coating if you have the money to do so.

[mikey's250sx]

so i pull the engine and the center support is broken off. i am hoping once i clean the frame i don't find any more cracks. i think i am going to rattle can it this time. i just can't afford powdercoating yet.

also a few wires on the alternator arebroken. i hope it shows in the pic. will this make it not work or are a few okay?

[LonesomeTriZ]

That should be easy to weld back on. You can repair those wires, but it wil be a little tedeous. What did you do about the hub problem? Did you end up drilling the rims out a little?

[mikey's250sx]

yeah i just drilled the rims. only needed a little bit of opening up. can i just solder the wires together ?

[LonesomeTriZ]

You can, the only thing that concerns me is the location. I could not tell how much you had to work with. As long as there is enough to get to, you should have no problems.

[Yamahondaman]

What Yr. Bike is it ? ... SAWZALL it out ... i have Stainless Swinger Cap's and a 17-4 Stainless Swinger Bolt for the "85-89" ATCs' and TRX's !! NEVER Rust AGAIN !!
45.00 Plus Shipping for all Item's ...Can't Beat it NO-WARE !!!! :-)
Hey LONESOME............... * Want the 3-way in-line ..........
before TF05 ??? HOLLARRRR Brother !!!!!!!!!

[bigredhead]

would the heat from the engine at operating temps make the solder melt ?

maybe with silver solder and shrink wrap..... hmmmm

That bike is a serious basket case !!!... i'm thinking something but i won't say it !! :P

[Yamahondaman]

I Think i Know What Your Thinking ....
After ALL of These People Thinking and Typing ....
Set it out By the Road on Monday or Thusday With "the Garbage Can's"
and ................ GOOD BY !!! :-)
HOLLARRRRRRRRRRRR

[LonesomeTriZ]

The solder should not melt off. If it does, you are running it way too hot. The trike is rough, but not unsalvageable. Just take your time, and make sure you pay attention to detail. I think you are off to a god start. Just stay focused and it will turn out nice and strong.

[mikey's250sx]

most of my money will be in the engine. i am having it done right the first time. i don't want to have to find a new piston after 2 months!! everything else is minor. i just ordered new pads and rebuild kits for the calipers too.

[Blown 331]

I didn't read every post but I recently changed my swing arm bushings on my 85 250r. I used an air hammer back and forth on it for about 2 hours to get it out. I replaced the with Richards bushings which use no metal parts to rust to the bolt so I will never have that problem again. I did not damage my bolt and I was able to reuse it.

[mikey's250sx]

where did you get those bearings? i used a ground down center punch and a 5lb sledge. bolt also re-useable

[Blown 331]

http://www.richardsbushings.com/

[Louis Mielke]

What are those bushings made out of? The idea of plastic where bearings used to be kinda makes me schwemish. Whats the deal? Do you like them? how do they work?

[Blown 331]

Yeah I like them, they are awesome! It's kinda like plastic but not really, I can't explain it and I've never felt anything like them before. It says they out last stock by many times- yeah they have to talk good about their own product but still. I highly reccomend them. Really tightened my bike up.
I found out about them from talking to people on 250R's at public riding area's, they swear by them. I wouldn't think about buying anything else.

[Louis Mielke]

Does he offer the complete linkage bushings too? I see the swing arm ones and then the lower "shock bushing" but does tha tmean the entire linkage or just the shock mounting point?

[Dammit!]

Does he offer the complete linkage bushings too? I see the swing arm ones and then the lower "shock bushing" but does tha tmean the entire linkage or just the shock mounting point?

Yeah I want to know that too...