350x on dyno tonite with nitrous hit...!!

[fyi]

I was bored this evening so one of my employees and I decided to strap my 1985 350x down to the chassis dyno to see what this thing was really made of. I have no clue as to what these things were rated at from the factory back then, so I didn't really care what it made, just as long as it pulled something respectable. We made both pulls in third gear for some sort of accuracy~ I hope we guessed right on that one...

Anyway... On the second run, we shot a bit of nitrous into her to see what it would do. Man, did this thing *really* scream when it hit the engine! It picked up 5 RWHP/3 RWTQ at the flick of a switch and pulled cleanly all the way to the 8000 RPM redline. I'm running a 50/50 mix of pump fuel and 108 octane VP Racing Fuel also and the bottle was pretty much empty except for vapor.

Oh, one last thing~ This engine has Redline 15w/50 synthetic engine oil in it and even after that hard nitrous pull, the clutch performed flawlessly during the pull. We even went trail riding for an hour after the dyno flogging with absolutely no isses what-so-ever and this machine has the bone stock 20 yr. old clutch still ticking!!! I love that stuff!

BTW- Does anyone know what these engines were rated at back then? What's the factory engine RPM redline anyway??


We had a real ball and it was certainly fun to see what she's got, especially on the juice! You've got to hand it to the Japanese for building a nearly bullet-proof machine!

Ride on guys! :beer

[nouseforaname90]

Please tell me what all this means. Lol. I think I get the chart.. but I'm not sure. Can you walk me through it?? If I'm not mistaken, it means that it reached nearly 26 horses.. but I think I'm wrong.

[BigAir660R]

is that a dyno for a car, if so its probablty not correct, also they usually use 20" tall slicks for the most accurate reading

[BigAir660R]

yeah theres no way thats accurate, that is what your seeing is that it peaks 25hp, i can see in the pic now that its a dyno for a vehicle now looking at how much of the tires are on the rollers. I thing you better find a atv dyno to get real #'s and get some 20" slicks.

[Maine_Triker]

I think the 350x made 26-28 HP stock.... is that chart with or without the nitrous??

[fyi]

You folks are correct, this is the chassis dyno at my business and it's for automobiles. I figured the data may be skewed, but we didn't really care, because we had no idea what it would do in the first place, we were bored and we didn't have anything to compare it to anyway. We did it more out of curiosity than anything else.

We do know however, that no matter how far the data is skewed, we still know the baseline, so as long as we keep the same tires and pull configuration/procedures the same from session to session, we'll be able to use this number as our benchmark from which we can gauge future modifications in the future. The data may be skewed by how ever much, who knows~ but at least it will be consistant and repeatable from pull to pull, which is all we really wanted to see anyway.

It was still a lot of fun and we'll hit it agin soon with a bigger shot until we find the limits of the stock parts. We'll make it a wet shot next time though so we don't melt a piston.... We want to have fun, not destroy the thing. :)

BTW- So does anyone know what these machines were rated at from the factory anyway?

[fyi]

I updated the dyno run graph so it would be easier to understand and read for those of you that asked. :)

[TravEX]

Very interesting.

[MTS]

They pull 20's on the other dyno sheets that i have seen from various companys acrross the internet,, so it looks accurate from that stand point...thats cool just some vappor kicked it up 5 ponnies!

[TravEX]

So, basically what it's saying is:

Stock: 21 hp, 21 ft-lbs torque

With the vapor: 25.5 hp, 24.5 ft-lbs torque.

Right?

I wish you coulda compared other gears, like 4th and 5th if it would pull it, to see how the #'s changed. The motor is bone stock?

And how high did you run the RPM'S?

And does the computer use a gear reduction ratio or something to figure the engines RPM?

[fyi]

Not quite.

Stock it made: 21.19 RWHP/18.61 RWTQ
With n20 vapor shot it made: 25.62 RWHP/20.85 RWTQ

The engine is completely bone stock BTW except for the removal of the spark arrestor, airbox lid and what appears to be a Uni-Filter air filter assy. Other than that...stone stock. We spun the engine to 8000 RPM and the dyno data aquisition computer picks up engine RPM reference via the sparkplug wire to calculate torque over time.

We didn't want to continually run it on this type of dyno because the 350x was not meant to spin a 2860 lb. steel drum at excessive speeds like this. If we kept at it too long by trying different gears, etc, it would have severely over-heated the engine, over-loaded the clutch and would have just been plain dangerous to spin the rear tires that hard time & time again, when they were never meant for those kinds of wheel speeds.

We just wanted to see what it would do and by keeping the pulls to a minimum with long cool-down periods in between, the machine will stay together. ;)

[OldSchoolin86]

This is very accurate from the sheets I've seen. Thanks for the info.

[jeswinehart]

My owners manual do'nt give the rated bhp ,,, and I can't find that sales brochure I bought off of ebay that might say what the bhp is.
But my hondaline tach on my 350x (85) says red line starts at 8 grand and stays red to 9 grand.

john

[fyi]

I'd say you're right on John. We tried to spin it to 9000 RPM, but the engine just laid over and quit revving at around 8500 RPM or so. We then backed it down to 8000 RPM instead. :)

BTW~ How can I get me a set of those gauges!? Those are really cool and I would love to have a set for my machine. ;) I *was* going to purchase an Autometer tach for this thing, but if I can find some Hondaline gauges instead, I'd rather have those for nastalgic reasons.

Let me know if you find another set, or if you would ever sell yours. Consider them sold if you do. :)

[350x'inNY]

My owners manual do'nt give the rated bhp ,,, and I can't find that sales brochure I bought off of ebay that might say what the bhp is.
But my hondaline tach on my 350x (85) says red line starts at 8 grand and stays red to 9 grand.

john


That's an aweful nice tach you got there! My certificate of origin from MR Honda shows a 28 hp rating....

[fyi]

My certificate of origin from MR Honda shows a 28 hp rating....

Wow, really? I did not know that... That's good info to know, thank you!

So using that information as a guide, this thing isn't doing too bad for a stone-stocker that's 20 yrs old. :p I guess someone must have taken care of this one during it's life. :)

[OldSchoolin86]

And that's crank hp, not rear hp.

[fyi]

Yeah, I figured as much. Pretty much what we also do in the HP automotive industry as well as far as ratings go. :)

[350x'inNY]

I'd say you're right on John. We tried to spin it to 9000 RPM, but the engine just laid over and quit revving at around 8500 RPM or so. We then backed it down to 8000 RPM instead. :)

BTW~ How can I get me a set of those gauges!? Those are really cool and I would love to have a set for my machine. ;) I *was* going to purchase an Autometer tach for this thing, but if I can find some Hondaline gauges instead, I'd rather have those for nastalgic reasons.

Let me know if you find another set, or if you would ever sell yours. Consider them sold if you do. :)

Well.... I'll speak for Swiney... that Tach isn't for sale.... and neither is mine! ;) They are extremely rare to find.... in my year's of ATC addiction, I've only scene 2 tachs for sale.... bought both... haven't seen any others except a Honda Pilot tach on ebay once, and that went for huge $$$$. Most Honda tachometers are gear driven while the Hondaline 350X tach is electronic.However... in the near future... a suitable "Hondaline 350X Tach" substitute maybe on the horizon.... we'll let you know when and if it is successful! Looking forward to the results myself!!!

In the meantime, there seems to be some digital tachs on the market that work.... I'm gong to order myself one soon to compare to the Hondaline ones....

Bruce

[jeswinehart]

Yep ,,, In am just renting/life lease type of thing on my tach. But hey ,,,,it's on My trike. I can say I have seen 3 honda line tachs
(banned + nameless one ,,, 350xINny's and mine ) but all I know of in existance is 350xINny's and mine)
I was thinking 26hp but 28 is good.

We have a 250 - 300 horse dyno at work @ our main head quarters ,,, it is a older sun unit. Quite the contrapcion ! At my work we do the propane from gas conversions ( I have no hand in that part of it ) and to see a big arse truck blocked up and going at it at 3000 rpm + plugged into all the wires + exhaust scares most folks right the heck out of the shop.

great post fyi ,,, john

[fyi]

Damn... Oh well, back to the Autometer thing then. :)

[Billy Golightly]

Thats some very cool info! Thanks for sharing.

[OldSchoolin86]

Where are you located? Would you wnat to run some other trikes for comparison?

[350x'inNY]

Yep ,,, In am just renting/life lease type of thing on my tach. But hey ,,,,it's on My trike. I can say I have seen 3 honda line tachs
(banned + nameless one ,,, 350xINny's and mine ) but all I know of in existance is 350xINny's and mine)
I was thinking 26hp but 28 is good.

We have a 250 - 300 horse dyno at work @ our main head quarters ,,, it is a older sun unit. Quite the contrapcion ! At my work we do the propane from gas conversions ( I have no hand in that part of it ) and to see a big arse truck blocked up and going at it at 3000 rpm + plugged into all the wires + exhaust scares most folks right the heck out of the shop.

great post fyi ,,, john

Actually, Swiney... you've only seen 2 then... cause the one that's on your trike was the one I bought from "the banned and nameless!".... onless I bought a different one from him and the one you saw on his trike was stolen with the trike? No problem man.... I just hate to see a guy's hopes hanging... got to squash them early! hahahaha Hopefully you have that tach for a long... long... long... happy life there ol'buddy!

Bruce

[jeswinehart]

That is correct. We spoke of it . Him and I got into a wee bit of a bidding war and I recanted ( and spokewith him about it at trikefest03).

Annnnyways fyi ,,, way cool posting. keep us up to speed on your messing around.. It is some thing I have never seen on the boards before.

john

[Fox250R]

My owners manual do'nt give the rated bhp ,,, and I can't find that sales brochure I bought off of ebay that might say what the bhp is.
But my hondaline tach on my 350x (85) says red line starts at 8 grand and stays red to 9 grand.

john
LOL................

[fyi]

Annnnyways fyi ,,, way cool posting. keep us up to speed on your messing around.. It is some thing I have never seen on the boards before. john

We'll do. I find this stuff really fun and a nice change of pace. :)

BTW Oldschool- I don't really want to dyno other atv's on our dyno, because I couldn't live with myself if we broke your machine on a dyno that wasn't really meant for atv's in the first place. I hope you understand...

If we break our stuff, we don't care~ but if we break your stuff, you'll come after me with a club.... and we can't have that! :eek:

[dividebyzero]

Where are you located? Would you wnat to run some other trikes for comparison?
What he said.I'd like to find out on both of mine.Atleast you can put it on a dyno.From what i know(350x),no rev limiter(for those of you that don't know),and it makes it's peak hp at 7000 rpm,although,it will go higher,like they said and bruce has every hondaline part for a 350x! lol! John-HP figures aren't in the brochures(i looked at mine),but,it is in the manual though...27

[OldSchoolin86]

BTW Oldschool- I don't really want to dyno other atv's on our dyno, because I couldn't live with myself if we broke your machine on a dyno that wasn't really meant for atv's in the first place. I hope you understand...

If we break our stuff, we don't care~ but if we break your stuff, you'll come after me with a club.... and we can't have that! :eek:
LOL, no club here! Well if you cange your mind I'd love to get the 400x on there.

[TeamGeek6]

FYI - OUTSTANDING.

Did anyone notice the center picture in the first post. If not look at it again VERY CLOSELY :idea: This second picture proves that whoever is running this test knows more than average. Any dyno without this is almost useless. :idea:

The graph looks reasonable for engine size and boost.

5 hp (~ 20%) sounds reasonable. Breakup at high RPMs is probably due to ignition fall off. Typically it starts around 6000 RPM (aka stock redline) and its effect is evident in all the curves, they start to fall off at 6KR.

Bulletproof engines - no doubt, they wil take a serious beating. Years back I tuned a stock Honda 750K to over 15,000 RPM, it ran way over the tach limit and kept on ticking.

:D :D

[slothminx]

ok im gonna take a guess at what you on about teamgeek(lol dejavu) remote throttle remote killswitch or does it have something to do with the little "box" sitting on the floor next to the trike inbetween the left and centre fan in the photo?

will

[TeamGeek6]

Look again - and BTW this picture gets all THUMBS UP. I aint got enough thumbs to point up on these pictures. And its something you must have for your "project" before going too far.

..almost enough to bring tears of joy to the eyes LOL

[1DEADPRESIDENT]

If you look in the 85-86 350x service manual it has the horsepower @ 27, not sure if this measured at the crank or at the wheels. Probably crank. As for the NOS shot I surprised you didn't see a bigger increase although I agree the dyno used may have something to do with it.

[TeamGeek6]

As for the NOS shot I surprised you didn't see a bigger increase although I agree the dyno used may have something to do with it.

That depends on how much extra fuel is taken in. N2O works to add extra oxygen to combustion - and if theres no excess fuel, it cant accomplish anything.

If an engine is running up against a limit of inducted air, one can set the fuel rich and make more power with NOx.

[slothminx]

lol teamgeek you have me confused here i stared at that picture for like 5 mins solid and i still dont have it is it that he has the doors open with lots of fans or that he has it strapped down really well . is it somthing big or small im looking for ? i know you love keeping people guessing but a little hint would help on this one;)

[TeamGeek6]

OK heres a hint - its RED

[slothminx]

well there are a few red things in there and there is only one thing i can see that might be doing something useful it has to be the thing in my attached picture i can see nothing else lol. am i in the right half or part of the picture or am i still missing it completely? come on let this sloth out of the dark it can get cranky when you dont. and you cant hide from this sloth either!! osin knows that one;)

[ATC crazy]

I thought you were supposed to do a dyno run in the gear with a ratio closest to 1:1? Wouldnt that be 4th-5th gear?

[nouseforaname90]

That red thing that you outlined in the pic, sloth, is a blower. We have one, only it is a Stanley and yellow. Those things can pump out tons of air.

[slothminx]

hmmm its something else im not too keen on guessing so if someone can tell me it would be great:) ohh and teamgeek i dont think many other people are up on guessing either just a hint ;) :D

[nouseforaname90]

I don't think doing a dyno without a blower would make it "almost useless" like TeamGeek said.. and I've been looking at that picture and see nothing red that may even be ANY use.

[slothminx]

lol maybe he has a fire exstinguisher fetish :lol: :lol: :lol: but serious come on teamgeek let it out !!!!!!! we want to know.

[nouseforaname90]

Well he said it was red, and in the center picture. So since it is in the center picture, I'm guessing that its not in the first pic, and its something along that back wall??? I see a short red/pinkish hose directly to the right of the bike, but I don't know what it is. Thats the only thing I can see that may even be it.

[slothminx]

Well he said it was red, and in the center picture. So since it is in the center picture, I'm guessing that its not in the first pic, and its something along that back wall??? I see a short red/pinkish hose directly to the right of the bike, but I don't know what it is. Thats the only thing I can see that may even be it.

No thats not it to me that just looks like your standard airline(i got one just like it)

have you seen something like standardising the humidity and air temp in the workshop ? dont think that would be red though

[nouseforaname90]

No. Not that hose. The long dark red hose in the corner of the shop is definately an airhose.. but I'm talking about the short redish/pink one along the wall.. about halfway between the opened door and side of the pic.

And why would you have something standardizing the humidity while the garage door is open?? It wouldn't really make sense.

[slothminx]

yeh that must be it i cant see anything else that it can be but it comes out pink on my screen!! ohh well. ohh and on the humudity thing i was just stabbing in the dark and yeh your right why with the door open!!?? now the question to be asked is. what does the red/pink/orange hose do?

[nouseforaname90]

Maybe hes talking about the ratchet straps. Hahaha.

[slothminx]

bahahahah lol maybe well it is true the dyno would be useless without them :lol: :lol:

[Yamahauler]

The trike is red, the dyno would be useless without that. :lol:

[fyi]

I thought you were supposed to do a dyno run in the gear with a ratio closest to 1:1? Wouldnt that be 4th-5th gear?

You are correct; a 1:1 ratio is indeed the most accurate for determining power output at the wheels and pull-to-pull accuracy. The problem is, we don't know what gear a 1:1 ratio factor is..... Does anyone know? Does the factory manual state it somewhere?

I ordered 2 factory service manuals today so I could learn a few things about these bikes without having to bug you folks all the time. ;) One for my machine and one for my wife's 1999 Honda Foreman 450s 4x4. (Man that thing is huge isn't it? Geezzz!)

BTW- Thanks for the power output figure 1DEADPRESIDENT! I really had no idea what these things were rated at back then. Now I do. :)

Nice tech write-up on ATV ignition systems teamgeek. It appears as if these machines suffer the same fate as automobiles do when HP modifications are done. As a side note: I wonder if a stock LS6 engine ignition coil could be adapted to work on these machines.....hmmmmm. If so, they are rated at 47kv, they are "smart" and are of very small/compact size~ plus water proof. Let me know if you want to chat about this further.

[fyi]

BTW- I think what TeamGeeek is referring to is the cooling fans. :)

[slothminx]

woah come on thats just plain obvious if you didnt have any cooling fans when you revved the x without it moving through the air it would get cooking hot in there. every dyno has fans without question. and there orange looking. not to react in a bad way fyi but i just dont think its that obvious ;) ;)

[nouseforaname90]

TeamGeek is online.. he should respond!!

And the fans are orange.. not red. If that is what he is referring to. Unless its only the blower he means.

[slothminx]

it cant be teamgeek has seen the tread since i suggested the blower YO CALLING OUT FOR TEAMGEEK let us know;)

[TeamGeek6]

You are correct; a 1:1 ratio is indeed the most accurate for determining power output at the wheels and pull-to-pull accuracy. The problem is, we don't know what gear a 1:1 ratio factor is..... Does anyone know? Does the factory manual state it somewhere?



As a side note: I wonder if a stock LS6 engine ignition coil could be adapted to work on these machines.....hmmmmm. .

Will, this is someone that knows something about automotive engineering. Good sort to learn from.

The dyno measures torque at the rear wheels, not engine torque. Theres a conversion factor to approximately equate the two due to transmission losses. Its based on gear ratios, bearing friction and gear types.

Also notice how clean the garage is. We could eat off that floor.

What you see here is (probably) a "traceable dyno," which means its accurate. Transmission losses are real and important because they cost engine power.

The thing about "1:1" is that this bypasses some of the transmission power losses because the gears are not in the circuit.



The important "red things" are the FANS, The data is useless without them, especially on vehicles with air cooling.

"Useless" means "of no scientific value" because there is a large error in the test.
Engines sometimes make more power on a dyno than track because of heating effects.

Its a science called "Thermodynamics."

Engines produce a great amount of waste heat. That waste heat has a large effect on the engines power output. If the vehicle is run at above idle speed (as in these tests) the engine gains heat very quickly because it has no speed to cause airflow across the cooling system.

The fans are a rough equivalent to having the vehicle moving through the air. In larger dynos ( in engine development) the engine is fitted with a cooling system that has circulating water and places to exhaust the heat.

Without them, the dyno data is not accurate, but is still a reasonable test if compared to repeats of the test on the same setup.

The red box beside the vehicle should be the data collection head (signal amplifiers).

FYI. LS-6 coil. Yes. Ill PM you, dont want to post that publically.

[slothminx]

wow i kind of thought that having fans was standard procedure in all dynos i know for sure if our car ran without one aimed at it, it would fry in a very few minutes it needs air running through it after just 5 mins at idle. lol silly of me to think it was more complicated:(. ill watch fyi's posts geek;)

[TeamGeek6]

Ill show you how to eliminate that problem, itll run nice and cool when were done.

[TravEX]

FYI. LS-6 coil. Yes. Ill PM you, dont want to post that publically.

FYI-post it!

[toyvette81]

why do some of you keep saying 20" slicks lol the bike came with 22's on it so that means it is tuned for 22's not 20's. it will perform the best all around with 22's on it. if its stock..
the # shouldent be that skewed.... horsepower is horsepower wether its a bicycle or car and he got a pretty accurate reading, i mean if honda said 27 and he was anywhere in the 20's thats pretty accurate, the rest matters to air flow, air quality.... if it was 105 deg with 100% humidity like it is here, or 55 deg with no humidity my stuff runs alot better in the winter here when theres no humidity and its much cooler, right now its 100% humidity and 105 index most of the time

[OldSchoolin86]

why do some of you keep saying 20" slicks lol the bike came with 22's on it so that means it is tuned for 22's not 20's. it will perform the best all around with 22's on it. if its stock..
the # shouldent be that skewed.... horsepower is horsepower wether its a bicycle or car and he got a pretty accurate reading, i mean if honda said 27 and he was anywhere in the 20's thats pretty accurate, the rest matters to air flow, air quality.... if it was 105 deg with 100% humidity like it is here, or 55 deg with no humidity my stuff runs alot better in the winter here when theres no humidity and its much cooler, right now its 100% humidity and 105 index most of the time
Tire size will change torque, not hp. Actually 22's would equal more rotating mass and that would lower hp numbers before it would up them. As mentioned before, don't forget that 27hp from honda is a crank number, not a rear wheel number.

[250rBeast]

Yep ,,, In am just renting/life lease type of thing on my tach. But hey ,,,,it's on My trike. I can say I have seen 3 honda line tachs
(banned + nameless one ,,, 350xINny's and mine ) but all I know of in existance is 350xINny's and mine)
I was thinking 26hp but 28 is good.

We have a 250 - 300 horse dyno at work @ our main head quarters ,,, it is a older sun unit. Quite the contrapcion ! At my work we do the propane from gas conversions ( I have no hand in that part of it ) and to see a big arse truck blocked up and going at it at 3000 rpm + plugged into all the wires + exhaust scares most folks right the heck out of the shop.

great post fyi ,,, john

Hmm, I had two NOS brand new; un-opened in the box; Hondaline 350X tachometers complete with instructions, etc. I am fortunate to have a buddy who once was a Honda motorcylcle dealer who still has stashes of old ATC parts which he "finds" in his attic then calls me. Dan 250SX bought one from me a couple monthes ago, I guess money can be persuasive. I'll never sell my other one though. I can get a third one as well, I'm just waiting for the call.

[conig]

FYI are you just using a sneaky pete type system? I have one in my garage doing nothing I would be curious to hook up. since its a dry system are you jetting up any? let me know.

[fyi]

A Sneaky Pete system would work well for an ATV application and that's probably what I'll ultimately go to when the time comes.

As far as how I injected it into the engine~ It was very crude at best and we really only did it just to see how the engine would react. If anything, you could call my "system" the "Sneaky Franklin" :lol: :lol: because it was really a frankenstien of a kit we whipped up quickly with parts we had lying around to inject the n20 into the engine. :)

[TeamGeek6]

FYI-post it!


I almost died because of that project, rather not hear that it killed someone else. I hate funerals :cry:

[OldSchoolin86]

I almost died because of that project, rather not hear that it killed someone else. I hate funerals :cry:
Don't worry TG6, I think we could handle a well written report on a coil swap.

[Speedster700HP]

Very interesting stuff. The curve definitely shows the nice broad power spread I remember from riding my old 350X. And it definitely shows how far 4-stroke technology has improved in recent years, which both high HP and high redlines!

With an ideal dyno setting (plenty of cooling, 1:1 gear, motorcycle dyno, etc) I'm sure the stock X would produce around 22-23 RWHP if it puts out the advertised 27 bhp. Using a 15% tranny loss factor-------23 RWHP/0.85 = 27 bhp. Also keep in mind, when manufacturer's rate the power of a vehicle, it has SAE correction applied, meaning it is corrected to standard temperature, humidity, etc, which can often raise the rated "brake HP" or "crank HP".

[fyi]

Our dyno does indeed use SAE correction. It's noted on the upper right hand corner of the graph. We also have four other types of correction factors we can use, depending on what we're trying to do with any given vehicle powertrain combination.

As I stated before, I do want to use a 1:1 gearing factor, but I don't know which gear that is... Does anyone know??

Typically~ when we dyno a car equipped with a 4 or 6 speed, we use the 4th gear in both instances because that is a 1:1 factor. A3 equipped cars get pulled in 3rd for the 1:1 and A4 equipped cars also get pulled in 3rd, as it too is a 1:1 factor. :)

[Troll 2]

As I stated before, I do want to use a 1:1 gearing factor, but I don't know which gear that is... Does anyone know??


Heres a 85 250r; http://www.3wheeler.org/3wheeling/10-84%7E27.jpg

[fyi]

Well, I finally found out the information I was seeking regarding what gear the 350x has to be in for a 1:1 final-drive ratio~ I purchased a factory Honda Service Manual for myself. ;)

According to their published final-drive gearing data, there is no "true" 1:1 ratio, only a little bit above and little below that target. Using stock tire diameters, 5th gear is a 1.103:1 ratio and 6th is a .950:1 ratio, which makes 6th just a bit closer to the target than all the rest.

I can tell you on thing for sure...there is NO WAY I'm running this thing on our chassis dyno at full-throttle in 6th gear! It's dangerous enough doing it in 3rd like before, not to mention it makes the pull MUCH longer and HARDER for the engine to rev through it's redline due to the shear 2860 lb. mass of the roller drums. :eek: This ATV was never meant for that....

I'm not really interested in dyno number bragging rights anyway, so I'll just continue to do what I've been doing in the spirit of safety for me and my machine. Additionally, the constant will always remain the same anyway from the baseline to what-ever it ends up at when I'm done with it someday, as the delta gain can still be measured. I think most of you said that these power figures were *pretty* close anyway for all practicle purposes, so onward I go. :)

Maybe someday I'll take it to an actual ATV dyno to see what it really makes...just for kicks. :)

BTW- I thought some of you might find the gearing info useful and I do plan to do a few dyno tests of some mods I have in mind. I'll pass along the info of what I find for you all if you're interested. :)

[fyi]

Thanx troll2. :)

[TeamGeek6]

not to mention it makes the pull MUCH longer and HARDER for the engine to rev through it's redline due to the shear 2860 lb. mass of the roller drums. :eek: This ATV was never meant for that....


Impressive it managed to roll that car dyno, thats 10 times the vehicle weight :w00t:
numbers might be even higher with the proper mass.?.?.

[HairlessWorrell]

Would just a cheap 2 1/2in tach for a car work on a 350x? They say they are for 4 cyl and 6 and 8.

[Unclediezel]

You would have to divide the 4 cylinder reading by 4-to get in the ballpark---Unless you can find a Tach that wires up in the INDUCTIVE mode-(Spark plug wire "CLAMP")

[ATCXman]

Our dyno does indeed use SAE correction. It's noted on the upper right hand corner of the graph. We also have four other types of correction factors we can use, depending on what we're trying to do with any given vehicle powertrain combination.

As I stated before, I do want to use a 1:1 gearing factor, but I don't know which gear that is... Does anyone know??

Typically~ when we dyno a car equipped with a 4 or 6 speed, we use the 4th gear in both instances because that is a 1:1 factor. A3 equipped cars get pulled in 3rd for the 1:1 and A4 equipped cars also get pulled in 3rd, as it too is a 1:1 factor. :)

There is nothing wrong or inaccurate about dyno testing this ATC in third and your results seem accurate. I think many are confused about gear ratios affecting HP.
We must not confuse an automobile trans and the trans on this 350X. Autos are typically tested in drive (1:1) because the input and output shaft are locked together and turn as one which minimizes power loss thru the trans due to gear mesh and torque transfer. However, a typically cycle trans like this 350X does not have a input that can be locked to the output shaft like an auto trans. It has a mainshaft gear that drives a countershaft gear. Yes you could have a 1:1 ratio if the 5th gear main and counter gears of the trans had the same number of teeth, but you would still have power loss because of gear mesh just like 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, or 6th. There is always a gear reduction when the power gets to wheels on either a car or a motorcycle. Even when a RWD auto is in D/4th (1:1) the power is still transferred through the rear differential before is reaches the wheels. Changing rear end gears changes how much torque is multiplied in rear end (differential) which changes power curve but it does not make the engine produce more HP just allows the engine to peak out sooner. So since this not a RWD auto trans, this dyno run could have been done in other gears with very very similar results. However, if we had a turbocharged car it would make better power in a taller gear because of the load placed engine would result in stronger boost. If a turbo car was dyno tested in first gear the engine would outrun the turbo do to the high gear reduction... Hope this clears up the fog left in previous posts.

[fyi]

I'm in the middle of putting my '85 350x (455cc) and my '86 250r (500cc) back together to try to get them both done in time for TF'06, so I'll be running both of these machines on the rollers again in a short while. It's definately getting tougher to get to spend any time with either of them, as the shop is getting silly-busy all over again as the Spring approaches.....:( (good for biz, bad for hobbies..) Not to mention that my wife is nagging me to get her Foreman put back together BEFORE I get to my stuff, which stinks.....:mad:

Oh well, gotta keeps the bills paid at the shop and the wife happy at all costs or else!!!! Not enough time in the day! :lol: