Wandering idle on a 1984 200X

[EvilMooseofDoom]

Howdy, y'all...
My beater bike is a 1984 200X, and even after a supposed carb rebuild, the idle is behaving a bit weird. It will idle normally, then move up to about 2500 rpm, sit there for a while, and then eventually go back down. Something was mentioned to me about the idle screw passage being defective, or gouged, or something else, he was not that clear about it. I did at least clean the barc out really well before firing it off again, but still the same problem.
It does have the stock carb on it, but with a cobra pipe, and unifilter...new primary coil, wire, and plug, but it was doing the same thing before anything was done to it...

[Unclediezel]

When it starts to rev away- Squirt some wd40 around the carb and manifold area-if Idle clears up or stumbles pinpoint the vac leak.

[wanta250r]

Check for leakage between carb/intake/engine.

[CoeShow]

EvilMooseofDoom,

Check out the ignition advance mechanism. It is located under the cam cover. After so many years of riding the advance mechanism return springs will wear and stretch allowing the timing to "hunt" around. When the timing is a tad advanced the idle speed will pick up, and when it returns it idles normally.

This may NOT be the problem, but it just might be. Check it out. The unit should return fully to its stops.

Good luck and ride safe.

[Solid Snake]

EvilMooseofDoom,

Check out the ignition advance mechanism. It is located under the cam cover. After so many years of riding the advance mechanism return springs will wear and stretch allowing the timing to "hunt" around. When the timing is a tad advanced the idle speed will pick up, and when it returns it idles normally.

This may NOT be the problem, but it just might be. Check it out. The unit should return fully to its stops.

Good luck and ride safe.



I've had this problem, after searching for air leaks forever I saw under the little ignition advance cover that my ignition timing marks weren't lined up correctly with the flywheel marks and also the pulse rotor base plate (look in your manual) was slightly advanced causing high idle that would settle after a few minutes. It would also rev up between shifts when I would pull the clutch in. After you spray carb cleaner or whatever around your carb to check for air leaks, if you don't notice any then definately check this before pulling your carb off because it's actually easy and quick to check, there are notches on the pulse rotor base plate and the cylinder that should line up and the advance unit needs to be aligned correctly and gapped correctly (look in your manual or buy one if you don't have one).