First Atc Build 110, 1983

[rally4x4racer]

recently obtained an old junker 110 for 50$ - tore it down to peices and am just trying to go for a solid build - nothing crazy.
I wanted to start this forum because I will need some advice from time to time.

current status - carb is trashed, valves are more concaved than a new skateboard, and the cyl & piston look decent - I have yet to take any specs. got a good seat and new maier plastics.

I am still trying to figure out where to get the seals for the motor - like the bearing seal looking things - they look like minature rear main seals - they sure did not come with my rebuild kit! I should probably call KIRK back.

Oh - and could some one please tell me where this ball goes? I took off the high low gear cover and was about to remove the gears for storage during breakdown and noticed a little ball sitting there. a check ball or something? - I want to get confirmation before I go sticking it somewhere!

also - anyone wanna give me some ideas about cutting the new valves into the heads? is this just a eyeballed process that is going to fix itself as the motor breaks in?

thanks -

r4r

[83200e]

The ball your talking about sits inside the shift fork along with a spring.Good luck with your restore.Put some pics up as you go.

[rally4x4racer]

thanks - i figured it went with the spring - so basically, the ball sits inside the shift fork giving the sping a convex surface to rest on? I will post some some pix when I figure out how to - ha ha -

r4r

[rally4x4racer]

I saw A diagram and it shows the ball on top of the spring. Now I am confused -

and on the valves - I can not seem to find stem guides anywhere.

beatrice cycle online has a lot of cool stuff for decent prices tho if anyone is interested.

If anyone wants to tell me where to get valve guides I would appreciate it.

MENTAL NOTE - I stuck the drive chain in some carb cleaner because it was nasty. turns out it was a DID chain with rubber O-rings in it. the o rings are all droopy!

I guess thats the nature of the business.

r4r

[thefox]

The ball goes on top of the spring then it sits in the shift fork. This way the ball will press on the shaft and there should be a grove that the ball can lock into for hi and a grove that it locks into for low. For the valve guieds I think you can still get them from Honda.

[rally4x4racer]

your right - valve guides, seals and caps for seals from honda are still available for about 75$ total. Imma keep looking at that price - that is lame.

thanks for clearing that up about the ball - makes total sense now. I appreciate it.

any one have ideas about how to bore the intake tube out a bit? I can reach the front of the openings with a grindstone - but im wondering about the middle..... is there a flexable grind bit ?

thanks - r4r

[rally4x4racer]

I busted the valve guide hole in the exhaust part of the head today - so im waiting on another head -

but I am serisouly wondering about this connecting rod. looks like the motor got really hot at some point. the tip of the rod that holds the piston all the way down towards the base of the connecting rod is discolored. down by the crank where it stops it has an extra ring of blueness. looks like it got super hot at some point.

Should I run it anyway? I can get a used one cheap - but I am wondering if this wouldnt make it harder. - will it? like it has been heat treated- or is it too risky? I will try to post a picture of it soon.


any experiences like this?

r4r

[Tri-ZNate]

I dont know as you can really bore out the intake. I spent a long time looking at mine and there are only two ways I can think of.

1. Sand paper it (not worth it IMO)
2. Be really careful with a dremel.

[MichiganRedneck]

r4r, in the future, i recomend cleaning your chain in nothing but kerosene. NOT carb cleaner. :lol:

[thefox]

your right - valve guides, seals and caps for seals from honda are still available for about 75$ total. Imma keep looking at that price - that is lame.


I think the valve seals come in the versa gasket kit, I am not sure what you mean by caps unless you mean the big cap/cover things which you can get used. Did you check your valve guides? They don't need to be replaced all the time.

[ride_red_95]

can you post some :pics:

[rally4x4racer]

C:\Documents and Settings\moroso\Desktop\new downloads\ blue rod

did that work? I tried to post a picture of the blued connecting rod... someone might have to explain to my DA how to post a pic .

thanks for the advice on the guides... i knew i was being anal.. ha ha
also i believe your right about the seals and stuff coming in the kit.

hey ride red - i tred to post a pic for ya- but theres not really any pix except of the build going on. I am serious I got this thing out of the junkyard - so bad when i get done it will be pretty but i will have like a grand in the POS lmao.

if it works I will post one of the junker in its junk yard state !!

r4r

ps - I knocked the springs out with a socket - how do i get them back in? yes - this is a serious question * pretty funny tho

[Vealmonkey]

r4r, with the springs knocked out, put the valves in the guides and see if they feel like they have alot of slop in them, if they do, get new guides. It would be best to have a shop do your guides and grind your valve seats. If you knock out the guides, you can strip out too much aluminum and the guides will never fit right again. Try rotating the connecting rod by hand and see how it turns, is it too tight or binding. Wiggle it side to side, if there is alot of slop in it, it would be best to replace, but that means splitting the cases and a total teardown. It can get complicated and expensive real fast sometimes.

[rally4x4racer]

hey - i was going for a total teardown - just because im sick like that - not because i know what the hell im doing! I just went and checked the bottom end - the bearings are smooth on the connecting rod but there is a little play from side to side. I am not sure what your defining as lots of slop... but i could measure how much the pin end of the rod moves side to side if that help. it seems like it wiggles a sixteenth of an inch or so (less) - but I am still wondering about the color of the rod..
If someone tells me how to post pictures I will show you guys the rod - its nuts

and i learned my lesson with guides when i stuck a punch thru the head and cracked the damn thing.

thanks to all who had part in this so far.

[Vealmonkey]

When we worked on the old vw heads, we heated them up first in an oven, around 450 degrees for 15 minutes or so, just make sure the heads are pretty clean so you don't hack off the old lady or set off the smoke detector. The local fire department doesn't like responding to non fires. And the punch you use needs to fit the hole for the valve guide snugly and not be of a bigger diameter than the guide itself, causes nasty problems.

[DeePa]

pick up a cheap new chinese 110 motor on ebay...thats your cheapest bet

[rally4x4racer]

i noticed :)

the haynes said heat the sucker up to 215 degrees F - so I did, and your right the old lady was grumblin because it stunk up the house.

if i have to do it again I will make sure its super cleaned first, oil it for a few days and puch the temp towards 450 - thanks for the ideas.

is that not enough temp to cause warpage?

[Vealmonkey]

It will come back to shape when it cools. The idea is the aluminum expands slightly faster than material the guides do. Try heating them 8-10 minutes since the 110 head is smaller, but you want to expand the aluminum enough so when you tap on the guide it comes out alot easier and doesn't take so much aluminum material. If you do them cold, they either crack or take too much aluminum with the guides. Just try the hotter temp for 8-l0 minutes. And remember, do not put the hot head into water or anything like that, let it cool down naturally. If you cool it too fast it will embrittle the aluminum. When you go to put the new guides back in, Heat up the head again and drive them into place. Once the heads are cool, make sure the guides are not loose, if you can turn them by hand, they are too loose. If you are going to all the trouble to replace the guides, you should probably replace the valves also, you usually can find them on ebay cheap.

[rally4x4racer]

pick up a cheap new chinese 110 motor on ebay...thats your cheapest bet

whay are you saying that? because of the rod? I have a bid on an 81 motor just in case i totally screw this one up :D

yeh - VM I was planning on replacing valves and springs ..they are too cheap not to! I do not know about rocker arms.. further - I do not even know how to measure the rockers for wear. so i guess i will just use the best looking pair i have.

anyone know of a swappable connecting rod that has more throw than stock?
I would like to get one and grind the seams off it and polish it -
Since it has one rod it will not have to weigh the same as the others - but is there are any precautions to take - to keep from throwing the rod off balance - or is that even possible?

ps - someone tell me how to post a picture

[thefox]

ps - someone tell me how to post a picture
http://www.3wheelerworldforums.com/showthread.php?t=31055 this should help:welcome:

[rally4x4racer]

thanks fox.

I think i am doing this wrong for a lack of tools - but the piston measures 2" and 30 thousands of an inch at the top of the skirt. at the very top of it is worn a bit and measures a bit less. overall between mic' n the cylinder and the piston the most I could come up with is a 15 thousandths " difference. the piston has some lower skirt wear and a bit of upper (above top ring) wear. what I am trying to figure out is what size is this thing.. lmao. I would guess i should probably blast the fins on the cylinder and then try to hone it to the next available size (.25) over. so I have .10 worth of honing to do.

here are my two questions for the day them imma post a pic of this rod

1. can I use a brake hone? hope so cuz thats all i have. and I would think a bottle hone would be sloooo if thats what is used anymore

2. is this the standard size piston? it says honda on it and on the other side it has 2 r then Z/943.

if you have a clue give me one.

[rally4x4racer]

this is what i started with. 50$ worth of junkyard delivered to my door.

oh - and my half heat treated rod. im still wondering if i should run it....

[Tri-ZNate]

well at least I know my cyclinder studs arent the only ones with rust :lol:. That connecting rod should be fine, I dont see anything physically wrong with it.

[rally4x4racer]

dratv lists the piston spec as

(52MM/STD/PK145) (52.25MM/.010"/PK146) ( 52.50MM/.020"/PK147) (52.75MM/.030"/PK148) (53.0MM/.040"/PK149)

so converting my measurements - i gather around 51.6 or 51.7 MM on my piston.
It is stock - I did not realize the piston wear would make it lose girth - altho it makes sense.

so I am about 4 mm shy of a perfect fit - (15/1000)

should I get the .010 over size and lightly hone the cylinder leaving a little play -
or the .020 over size and hone until it fits ?????????

i told ya i needed help!

[thefox]

Is there scratching on the piston or cylinder? That is one sign that you need the next size. Also when you measure the piston and cylinder it needs to be within a size +/- a value given the repair manual, I don't have the book so I can't help you there.

When you do go up a size you have to get the cylinder bored out. The reason you have it bored is that the cylinder doesn't wear perfectly evenly so it is no longer round but slightly oval, boring will bring it to the next size and round where your hone would leave it oval. You use the hone when the cylinder is in spec. The hone will roughen up the cylinder just a little so that oil can stick to it.

[rally4x4racer]

well - if i have to get it bored out i might as well go .025 over yea? but wouldnt that cost a bit? there is a deal on ebay where they offer the piston, rings, and reman cylinder for like 130$ but you have to give them your old stuff.

I guess I am off to figure out which way will cost less.

anyone knows of a machine shop in central FL that can do this let me kno.


i did notice a bit of ovalness to the bore when i mic'd it. was not bad at all tho.

thanks again fox

[thefox]

Generally you want to bore it the next size so yes I would go .25 over stock. The kit on ebay looks ok or you can just buy the new piston and have your cylinder bored, most shops charge about $50 to bore the cylinder if you supply the piston. Just call around to any machine shops and motorcycle shops if they don’t do cylinder boring they should be able to point you to someone who does.

There is a piston kit on ebay now for $45 BIN http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-ATC-110-PISTON-KIT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43977QQitemZ4616457 550QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW and dratv.com has a kit for $47. If you haven't seen dratv check them out they have good prices on a lot of parts.

[rally4x4racer]

thanks again fox..

you seem to be the only one talkin to me here - lolz i appreciate it - and pat too - i been talking to pat since i started this build -

I have not found a shop close by yet but hopefully my volkswagon buddies can refer me - I did drop a 375$ order with dratv tho and got a .030 piston kit with a cobra exhaust and lots of misc. maybe tomorrow i will get that cyl blasted and find a shop to bore it.


So I hear..... that taking the big balloon tires off the 110s makes it a pretty rough ride.... but they look soooooooooo much better- whats a guy to do? I dont care much about a rough ride - hell its an ATV! Big boobs are uncomfortable for the mommys but we all like them :w00t: and skinny chicks....... nevermind you see what i am saying. whats best for raising hell?

thanks

[rally4x4racer]

btw fox - is that a pic of you in your avatar? and if so - what the heck are you riding? thats funny.

[Vealmonkey]

Hey 4x4r, Where in Orlando. When I was in basic in the Navy, I was in orlando. I was there for Nuke school too. When I got out of the Navy, I lived in Melbourne for 2 years. Sad to say, I lived there when the shuttle blew. I still have a piece or 2 of it, it washed up on shore for quite a long time. Not one of my better memories of a great place. I got a buddy down in Hollywood just souith of Lauderdale. I love Fl, except for the crazy storms. I sent you some pictures of my trikes. And if you have trikes you've got to get an atc70. Put a 90 engine in that and have some fun. We've been known to have 70 races and pit bike races too.

[thefox]

btw fox - is that a pic of you in your avatar? and if so - what the heck are you riding? thats funny.

lol, that is me on my old atc 70, the little trikes are so much fun!:w00t:

[rally4x4racer]

VM I am in easat ORL by UCF.. from looking at FOX's avatar I think a 70 would be fun - but I have to get a bigger trike first... got to have a well rounded herd ya kno? :naughty:
Is is not tuff on those old mini's for us full grown men to be rompin around on them? ha ha - i got my kids an MR50 but swore I would never ride it since it would be hard on it ( I am 175lbs )

looking at FOX's avatar makes me wanna do it just for the picture tho :D

what kinda speed am I lookin at on this 110? new valve train .030 over cobra exhaust UNI filter when I get done with it? just wondering - i havent even ridden a trike ion years - except my old mans gullwing - and that doesnt count.

......waiting on parts and labor

[Vealmonkey]

A good 40 miles an hour or so. It will seem faster with the single drum brake and no suspension, LOL. You can change the sprocket and get some more speed on he top end, but you'll lose a little on the bottom. A hotter cam makes alot of difference, and with a hotter cam you can go to bigger jets, more speed all around. Depends what you want to do. If you want real power you would need to go bigger bore and higher compression and even a stroker crank would help. Speeds above 50mph are not uncommon when you trick one out. The stroker crank treatment is cheap though. You can mill your heads down a little and that will give you a higher compression but you have to watch valve clearance. If you get the compression to high, they are hard to pull start and you have to use a racing fuel.

[rally4x4racer]

someone stop me if this sounds off - I am looking at rims and tires from kirk - and two rear rims (stock) is like 50$

tires for the rear will be 20 tall 11 wide and 8 dia. for the front imma use the 22 tall 11x8 for better handling. all turf tamers - i wanna keep the handling and ride as much as possible but do not want these ballons.

any input?

[Vealmonkey]

How crazy do you want to get. If you want to spend the money go aluminum rims. If you don't want to spend the money, look on ebay. You can use the old 3 bolt yamaha rims, same bolt pattern and one piece rims. I don't know what the rims are in the kirk catalog. I think there is another catalog place called "chapparal", don't know about the spelling. Having a bigger tire in the front than in the rear might look a little goofy to you. You might want to run all 3 20s' or all 3 22s'. It would be easier if you just had one size tire if you had a problem. People sometimes use innertubes wih the honda 2 piece rims. I've heard mixed reactions about the innertubes. Guess it is just a matter of preference. How is your build coming along? Do you have the frame and everything all painted up? I'm waiting for some before and after pictures.

[rally4x4racer]

its going slow brother - waiting for dratv to send me my exhaust and piston kit and all the other knick knacks so i can turn around and mail the cylinder off for boring ( need the piston ) also waiting on a replacement head from ebay :crazy:
other than that everything is going good. just going to do the clutch and clean the hell out the motor - maybe not even crack the case - dunno yet. it will be a bit before i get it all together - i wanna make sure i get it right the first time.
as soon as there is a major noticable difference i will post the build specs and costs and some pix for sure. i got a RC nitro traxxas truck for the meantime heh heh

i do not mind the front tire being different - just want whats best for look/sport/safety. remember my kids will likely ride this thing in the future since it is smaller. so i gotta keep her semi normal.... (this time around) i know i will have to sacrificefor fun and s safety peed for comfort and all that i am just trying to fiugre out what the best way is - the turf tamers are square - ( looks alot better to me) great for the rear but wont it make the front hard to steer? (harder than the ballons since they have more footprint?)

would it look alot better if i put the 22X11x8 turftamers on it? they are the same size just - NO BALLONS * this is not a birthday party*

most important to me is NIBLE - i want the bike to steer good, and have decent suspension. I am willing to make a little sacrifice on suspension to get rid of the balloons. so....20's all the way round? should i get a rounded 20 for the front?

you think it will look retarded with square rear tires and a rounded front? lol it really would if they were different sizes huh?

[firefirefire90]

If i was in you're position, I would do all that you are doing now, buy a powroll camshaft, Put 18" tires on the rear and a 20 up front. Hah may sound goofey but then lower one sprocket size down in the front and the rear sprocket one size up to compensate for 18" tires. With the 18" tires, you will be abe to slide around realy well.

EDIT: Then again, it really matters what type of riding you will do. I would rather have nice small tires in the rear for me, but that is just personal preference.

[thefox]

I wouldn't go smaller the 20" tires; it sits low enough to start with. For the back I would get some nice used 200x rims and hubs, you can get them fairly cheap and they are an aluminum that will shine nicely. Then I would put the 20" turf tamers or whatever you want on them. For the front I like what Danteross77 did, he has a Honda 250R front tire/rim/hub on the front with atc 70 axle spacers. The narrow front tire will help the steering and it looks cool:cool: . I bet you could do the same thing but run a 200x front rim/hub so you have the polished aluminum all around.

[rally4x4racer]

i just checked out new 1983 200x wheels - those are sweet.. imma keep that in mind but not going to go that crazy right now - I read that post your talking about an PM'd the guy about it - that does look better and I am certian it handles better to.

im not going to cause anymore work than I already have to do to get this thing running and looking great.. for now

the bolt patter on most of the 200x is 4/110 right? mine is the 130 ..
so - 20" huh fox? I was not planning on going down to 18" yet - so 20" on the rear and should i go 20" ballon on the front or how much difference is that footprint going to make?

[rally4x4racer]

BTW - anyone have a website that has ID #'s verification on it. for carbs, heads, frames ect? I use to ref one for SBC and Mopar stuff..but im new to this arena.

the head i just got has a E 4 5 on it and the one i had was an E 2 5 - I am trying to figure out what kind of difference there is.

I am guessing there is not much differ between an 83 and 84 head - but how do i really know what is on a bike this old? I know the later 84 heads have different valves cotter(keepers) and retaining plates.

[Vealmonkey]

r4r, The straight edged. like a turf tamer, are a little tougher to turn, no big deal for you and me, but could be a bit tougher for younger riders. You can always see if danteross could make you up a set of those triple trees he made for his hardtail. You might have to supply him with some kind of core parts and pay him some money, or maybe buy the pieces from him outright. The 200x hubs will bolt right onto the 90\110 axle, just make sure to do some wire brushing and use some anti-sieze, good idea for any hubs really. As far as the exact differences on the heads, you have me there. I knew 83-85 were all cdi, so they should work, now I'm hearing the earlier 110 points heads will work, but I haven't had a way to confirm that yet. I think the cdi parts will bolt right onto the earlier heads and vice versa. I just picked up a points 110 head off ebay for my stroker 90, hope it works. I also just bought a nos 79-80 110 engine off the bay, cool huh? As for the late 84 engines, Honda does a model year for the bikes, like the cars, a late 84 should be an 85 model year. If you could get one of those 200x front end set ups for the 110, you could have a juice front brake. The brake items are usually the most expensive unless you have a buddy that has a junker, excuse me, parts bike. Good hunting, Pat.

[rally4x4racer]

thanks for the inf0 - yea VM i saw that motor runnin on ebay - lol i think you outbid me on that head. I tried to get that one motor in miami - it was an old 81 110 complete but it went for a bout 50$ shipped - considering that is what i gave for the wheeler itself and I do not really need it for the build i figured id wait until i raid a yard someday.

I ordered the 20 x 11 x 8 tires and the new steel rims for the rear from Dennis Kirk.. and got a carb kit and some main jets for my hawk ect ect. . I went ahead and got the same tire for the front rim (20") because what you said VM - good point .. im not a wuss... so what if it is a bit harded to turn.

I got my head in today and as soon as I get my cyl sent off I should be ready to try to get it all together. How long does DRATV typically take to send something out? I did not get a shipping email or nothing - havent even been charged for the stuff - kinda weird... my ordernumber shows everything tho

got me.

[Vealmonkey]

r4r, I'm sorry if I bid against you, I thought you had your head already. You'll have to pm me your ebay name so I'll know beter next time. I'm hoping to see some pics soon. I'll have to be getting some more of my aftermarket frames done soon, I'm waiting for a friend to pick up a bandito frame with a 110 that I kind of threw together on the cheap. It isn't much to look at cause the guy wanted the 85 110 fenders and tank on it but it does have an aftermarket front end. If he don't pick it up soon I might clean it up some more and put it on here for sale.

[rally4x4racer]

my ebay ID is dodgepepsitruck

better watch out from me .... the only time you ever see my name is at the last minute :lol:

i dont care if you out bid me and then email me and rub it in my face - thats the way it goes. heh... i emailed this guy that sniped me one time and called him a @#$#% .. but i know its fair game..

hey - how do you keep these steel cylinders from rusting out? should I have it powdercoated? or maybe just put some engine enamel on it. bead blast wasnt touching all the rust - i had to use the oxide. now I just dont wanna do it again.

maybe by next post i will be able to put up a picture of the mini X tracks im building in the lot behind the house.. got a few ramps started and a pit going.

[Vealmonkey]

r4f, Not rubbing your face in it. I just went back and checked, you were the first bid and then no activity again. I'll keep an eye out for you next time. You got a track behind your house, I might have to stop by on the way to go see my buddy in Hollywood. I'll bring the harley and something 3 wheeled if I do. I'll warn you before I come. You aren't making your track in that old sinkhole are you? LOL Pat.

[rally4x4racer]

I take it no one cares about their cylinder rusting?

I just chunked mine in a bucket of phosphoric acid. Its pretty clean now ha ha

dont worry about it VM.. I dont need to be buying half the junk i buy on ebay anyways.. i get so carried away sometimes - i bought an 79 sportster on there once, and then one time i bought a VW trike. lol - I love being stupid sometimes.

[Vealmonkey]

r4r, I just use the silver or black engine enamel on my cylinders. You can powder coat and it looks cool, but it locks in too much heat in my opinion. I use the silver engine paint on my 500 triumph cylinders and the black on the old harley and 650\750 triumph cylinders. The engine paint seems to last better if you can bake it in an old oven for awhile. Once again, try not to upset the old lady when you are curing the paint for your cylinder in the oven. LOL. Did you see the post from Mymint87 about the place he found in cali with all the aftermarket trike frames , WOW, off the hook man. I might have to dig into the savings if he buys some of the stuff. I think the post is called "Promised Land" or something to that effect. Take a look.

[rally4x4racer]

VM I just put some disc rotors in the oven lol

they have caliper and rotor paint on them - I am unsure of the temp spex.

I have them in at 250 deg F and was planning on a half hour. let me know if this sounds right timewise and tempwise. This is the first time I have baked enamel..

the old lady is gonna flip.


actually - the old lady did flip but I managed to bake the about 350 -400 for 20 minutes or so... lol think thats good enough?

[Vealmonkey]

That should be good. Your going to have to get a junk oven for the shop! Take your honey out to dinner, it does no good to fight city hall, if you know what I mean.

[rally4x4racer]

the rubber choke piece does not seem to come off the carb.

How do I clean the carb good? typically I would throw it in a bucket pf Berrymans chem dip carb cleaner - BUT - I am afraid that is going to eat the rubber choke handle up.

any suggestions?

[Vealmonkey]

What do you mean by the rubber choke piece? There are 2 screws that hold the choke flap inside the throat of the carb. If you remove them, the shaft for the choke should pull right out. Do not lose the 2 little screws that hold the choke flap on and pay attention to the little spring where the choke handle is. I hope this helps to answer your question, if not you need to send me a picture of what you are talking about.

[rally4x4racer]

your right, VM! where would I be without ya...

I did not try it before because I was working on the throttle body from my dodge one time and tried to remove the plate screws (they had the similar smashed ends as these do) and I ended up screwing it up and stripping the screw..
(good reason to buy a 400CFM over-bored CNC throttle body...:rolleyes:)

so I guess I was just thinking these would not come out either, and/or if they did they would be hard as hell to get back in with that one end of it messed up.

some people think thinning the plate, and choke rod, and putting streamlined flatheads where these screws are opens up the fuel delivery. I dont know if it is worth all that..

but i do suppose I will use some blue locker thread when I put these screws back in.
PS - I never found the frame post...

stop me before I tear something up!

[Vealmonkey]

a couple of pictures of some of the frames I have. It took time to find these all over the United States thanks to ebay. Mymint found tons of frames like these all in one spot. These make an atc90\110 alot more fun.

[Vealmonkey]

If you go to the post "Junkyard pics...name that trike" and look for the posting by Mymint87 called "promised land" and check that out, you will see all the aftermarket framed trikes. I hope that helps you find it.

[rally4x4racer]

I want one..

but i want a bigger atc first.. or maybe a yamaha... what to buy next.

hey i found a blaster 200 real clean for like 600$ isnt that cheap?

[rally4x4racer]

looks like i got burnt out for a few days and started working on other things.

come on guys your supposed to MOTIVATE me!! ha ha - anyways I am going to try to knock out all other stuff over the next day or so and get back to the 110

the main thing I wanna do is check out the oil pump and change the clutch. and start getting ready for when the top end arrives with a fresh bore.

Any CAUTIONS :idea: in the clutch change, or pump check? also I may split the caseto make sure its clean inside and check for obvious problemos (since I really dont know what the hell im doing)

any common failures to inspect? or things that should be done during the process? thanks for the heads up

r4r, the first to pimp his own wife

[Vealmonkey]

I think Ike Turner pimped Tina out way before you pimped your wife, LOL. He also pimpslapped her too.

[rally4x4racer]

Damn, I thought I was first.

I should have pix coming soon!

[rally4x4racer]

who the hell would PAY for tina turner?? lol

anyways the clutch was trashed but all plain plates were within spec after som good ol' sand paper machining to put some grip on them and loose the burn marks. look it how trashed the clutch was !! why does everything i buy have a burnt clutch?

I tried to spec the oil pump but I didnt have a feeler gauge that small - so clean and reinstall there.

but i have a few Q's maybe some of you 3 wheeler gods can help me out with.

1. look at the two intakes... wtf??? which one goes to my 83 110? I hate it when i get mixed up!! ( one has a long bolt hole - i dont know if it matters)

2. where the hell did these small springs come from? i pulled the clutch plates out and they appeared from nowhere! I assume the go on the holding poles on top of plain plate D but underneath plain plate A ??

3. - speaking of plain plates.. Im mixed up again. - anyone know if this is the right order? look at the flanges - it goes D - one with poles, C - ?? one with half clevis half holes?? B ?? all clevis?? and A - one with all holes.

Im ready to slap it in there and run it. someone stop me before i screw it all up!!

thanks

[Vealmonkey]

r4r, I'm at work so I don't have the manual near me. I think that long bolt hole intake for a 125. I don't have one and it's like nothing I've seen, so just a guess. Man, that basket looks grungy, I hope you cleaned it upreal nice. Those springs go over the little poles before you put the clutch plates back on. If you have access to a bead blaster, blast the plain plates up real nice. I'll check the manual when I get home for the order.

[rally4x4racer]

VM- yea the basket is in the bucket of cleaner that centrifigul oil cleaner was holding some gunk! thanks for checking it out for me.. Imma have to send you a "royalty" if i ever sell this thing! I sanded the hell out of the plates... .thats an idea tho i could stick them in the blaster - I do want to have some scratches running perpendicular to the plates right? ( like you clean a CD) I just went against the groove to help it catch. smooth? or scuffed? or rough? i hit these with some 80 grit after cleaning :lol: I am ready for wheelies!!

[Vealmonkey]

r4r, proper order should be ; flat with poles and springs, clutch fibre, clutch plate with half holes, clutch fibre, clutch plate with half holes,clutch fibre, clutch plate with all holes then retaining clip. this is how it all should fit into the basket per the manual.

[rally4x4racer]

ewww. one of my plates does not have holes at all - just Y - slots!! it looks like it came like that too - so i guess those two dont matter ( those are the b and c plates anyways)

heres a stupid question - in the mean time( waiting for the cylinder to come back ) i could be reassembling the head - but the manual shows the dude pressing the valve spring assy down with a wrench - thats not going to work with nothing there to keep from pushing the valve out!! I pulled the valves like that and had to wad up some light grade paper and stuff it in the cyl. dome of the head to keep the valves put - any better ideas?

[Vealmonkey]

Large C clamp and a modified socket to allow access to the spring retainers. A valve spring tool if you plan on doing more heads. Maybe rent a tool from the local auto parts store or rental place. The order for the clutch reassembly, Plate with poles and springs, clutch fibre, flat plate with all y's, clutch fibre, clutch plate with y's and holes, clutch fibre, plate with all holes and the retaining ring, didn't look at the picture close enouigh, sorry, my bad.

[rally4x4racer]

your full of !@#$^( uhh, I mean good ideas) VM !! that will work - i got a large C-clamp and plenty of sockets that I dont need.... lol this ought to be fun.

I got the case split. so the tar down is final - and now that I split the case I have increased the odds by about 80% that I will ebay the whole damn thing! ha ha- it was freaknasty tho, so I went ahead and split it.

there is a crack in one of the bolt holes - but it only holds one of the engine covers on so Imma run it. other than that the bigger bearing ( Im not sure which side its on) has a bit of a rattle in it when a good spin is put on it *using light oil* but Imma run it too :w00t: - considering im running a blue rod!!

I was wondering tho - after looking at the crank assy - how do you remove the rod? Im not gonna, but geeeeeez thats weird.

thanks for clearing up the clutch plate dilema for me! Imma go to honda service and see if i cant get a diagram how this transmission stuff goes back in - i lost a couple of gears coming out - it lo0ks like a straight-forward setup *check*

think i should use some gasket glue on the case? i have some sticky "indian" stuff ..

Time to figure out how all this stuff goes together! I'll be surprised if this thing ever runs again - not to mention proud! I appreciate all the help cant wait to rip up some of this florida sand!

[rally4x4racer]

Hey VM - if it werent for you I would almost be talking to myself!!

its all going together easy - too easy it seems but I dont think I am forgetting anything. I put up a pic of how how the clutch is going back in - at least i think its right! - there is a big gap under the top clutch plain plate that i do not recall being there - was I drunk ?

what about this lever thing? it is not sitting flat and it is on correct ot the best of my knowledge.

also - on the transmission drum - on the other side of the case there is a screw with a rectanular head - I think it screws into the drum any idea how tight it should be?

please let me know if this lever is screwed up or what so i can drive on re-assembly. being crooked like that bothers me

thanks

[Vealmonkey]

r4r, The clutch stack is wrong. After the flat plate with the posts and the springs, fibre, plate with all y's, fibre, plate with y's and holes fibre, plate with all holes

[Vealmonkey]

Everything else looks ok. You have to show me what you mean by a rectangular head screw. Your not talking about what the neutral indicator hooks onto are you? Send me a picture.

[rally4x4racer]

I am glad you caught that VM - now I just wish I had not stuck it back in and got that big Oring back in- AND it took forever to get the nut lined up so i could lock it....

I think I did that by looking at the fiche at service honda. Is the order of the plates the only thing thats messed up? notice the small springs (marked 1) - does it just move down to the bottom plate (marked 2)? since I am just changing plates B and C.....

Also - can you see how the lever is not sitting flat in the picture? I just wanted to make sure you could see it

illl go look for a picture of the male clevis bolt/rod that i was talking about - if i dont find one ill post it when i get back from rock springs this afternoon

( my finger is pointing to the rod/bolt thing that I was talking about, let me kno if this helps)

BTW VM - that is exactly how they go accrding to the fiche-- is the fiche wrong a lot? (plates) *but thqat is for 70-85 110 - not necessarily an 83

[Vealmonkey]

The parts fiche is mainly a reference for parts, not an exact reference for assembly, That is why you need a manual. Artists don't necessarily make manuals, LOL. The triumph microfiche are the worst. Most of the parts in the triumph fiche don't even look in real life how they are drawn in the fiche or the parts books, very frustrating, it has screwed me over several times. It's hard to believe the english ever built anything. I believe the piece the piece you are pointing at is for the neutral indicator. Try fitting the outer case cover and see if it doesn't have a big "N" next to the hole.

[Vealmonkey]

r4r, I sent you a PM.

[sideshow_bob]

Wow Mate,how did you get those sidecases to look so good?
I am guessing just a power drill and a wire wheel?

Cheers

[rally4x4racer]

yea I used a die drinder with a wire wheel and a triangular wire bob on a dremel for the parts i couldnt get to. its a good start to polishing something - I polished one of the covers and it looks pretty good. I need to get me some buffing wheels that fit the die grinder - pretty cool at about 65 PSI!!

thanks VM- I will catch up with you in a bit.

[rally4x4racer]

ONE OF THESE DAYS WHEN THIS FORUM AUTOMATICALLY SIGNS ME OUT - IMMA BE TOO DRUNK TO SIGN BACK IN!!!
:banned:
anyway- thanks pat! If you werent helping me out I never would of caught this!

CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHATS WRONG WITH THIS PICTURE???? :banned:

SHHHHH pat! dont say anything - im not going to say anything until someone figures it out - then Ill take alll the hits you guys can dish out:banned:

NOTE: 110 CLUTCH - the prongs of the C-clip go in the square part and should be started on a flange that does not have a spring!!:banned:
:banned:
tenessee honda fiche rocks man, thanks for the referral - I ordered a manual and some stuff from them - now I might leave you alone with all these lame questions!

your right - maybe i should eliminate the corona from the picture :cry:

[Vealmonkey]

I can't believe that there hasn't been any guesses.

[rally4x4racer]

I know - it is probably so obvious that no one even notices.. LOL I still can not believe it.

[thefox]

lol I'm not a 110 guy but clutch is on the wrong side of the engine:eek: .

[rally4x4racer]

nice shot fox - any idea how it happened?


(besides me drinking too much)

ps fox - i have some mag wheels for a 81 xs1100 - will they fit your bike?

[thefox]

I'm guessing you didn't see the arrow pointing forward on the parts diagram or you did what I would do and just started putting parts on the side of the engine that was facing you:p .

As for the wheels I am not sure but I already have an extra set somewhere from my parts bike.

[rally4x4racer]

seriously, the crank is installed backwards in that picture.

I did not realize it till I tried to mock up the side cover and it would not fit.

thats pretty bad, huh?

[thefox]

lol makes sence then. I was wondering how it fit on the wrong side!

[rally4x4racer]

i got my cyl back and am putting my rings on and assembling this thing (again)

but im lost on the rings

the oil rings ( bottom slot) - does the middle peice lock in or does it just go on? it is like a -_-_-_-_-/-_-_-_ with the forward slash being where it butts up - does it just but up or does one square snap over the other - seems like it just butts up.

and the top two rings - how the heck do I know which one goes in which slot? one is silver on the outside edge and one is black. the silver edged one might have a slight taper but the black one is wider. I am guessing the silver one goes on top but the dumb haynes says the tapered ring goes in the middle slot? so I am confused

( cuz the book also says a particular side goes up on the rings and it is marked with an initial from the manafacturer - and there are no marks....)

thanks for all the help


DONT MAKE ME SLAM ON MY BRAKES - MY SEAT IS NOT BOLTED DOWN!

[Vealmonkey]

Jef, The tapered ring is the second ring, the wider part of the taper at the bottom. The other ring is the top ring. There should be some kind of mark on the "top side" of the rings near where the end is. Look carefully for this, the mark will be on the top side. Don't forget to stagger the gaps.

[rally4x4racer]

Monkey! hey - there is seriously no marks - I even grabbed a sudco kit off the shelf to look for marks. I found the mark on those rings but not the ones that cam with the piston I am using.

you said the wider taper ( the edge with more taper goes toward the skirt on the second ring right? ( not that i can tell which side that is for certain) - if so that would put that ring right side up

and the top ring ( al black sharp edged) does it really matter? I can not tell a difference in the edges

Imma just slap it on there since there are no marks - whats the worst that could happen? premature failure?

gracias

[Vealmonkey]

If you put the rings in wrong places especially upside down it will push the oil out of the engine. That statement probably won't make sense until you see it happen. I forget the term. Do you have a magnifying glass? Put tthe widest edge at the bottom of the second groove. Just like a triangle, the widest part at the bottom and the point at the top.

[rally4x4racer]

I have not been able to look in the book yet VM I have to go thru some stuff for school first but heres some pix maybe you can make sense out of.

note the line - I am guessing that is the way it will sit when the cover is put on the block

the red circles is where I imagine the balls go. no clue - balls didnt come with it.

and then also there is a pic of the arm the way it is sitting in the flappy plate. ill do some studying on it as sson as I get a chance and hopefully I can figure out something.

[Vealmonkey]

Jef, there is a piece that you are missing that is a triangle with the 3 balls in it that fits between the two pieces that you have. Look into your extra parts box.

[rally4x4racer]

looks like I have been MIA for a bit. either way I am moving like molasses on this project. I ordered the parts that I needs VM - waiting on them to finsih the head (again, this time with new valve seal)

I did go ahead and strip the frame tho - good thing too because under the old paint there was a lot of rust. maybe my super thick clear coat will keep all that from happening. Stripped the tank and test for leaks

Ill prolly start putting bearings back in and try to find all those ballz to get the forks on and see if I can get this stupid old wheel to seal up since I took the tube out. the new tire I got is tubless - and i foresee a prob.

heres a few picture of my painting madness. I am open for suggestions on the graphix for the tank. ( figured I could use some airbrush practice)

[Vealmonkey]

Put the Honda decal with the stripes, but make honda in chrome foil and the striped in chrome and gold foil. I'm not a graphics designer, just get whatever decals you make in the shiny foil, maybe the Honda in gold foil and the stripes in red and blue foil. That's alot of shiny black paint there. Glad to hear your back working on it Jef.

[rally4x4racer]

the paint should be pretty tuff by now so im going to start putting it back together asap - i still need the bearing seals and im waiting on southern honda....

i was about to put the top end together last time i talked to you pat, and realized i put the valves in without putting the exhaust valve seal pieces in


I got some chrome wings. I might go there. - i think some hell fire figures ghosted in matching red would look good. theres not much room on the tank for graphix tho - so i may just slap some wings on it!

and go figure - I was working on the wheel today and got it all together and NO GO! that two piece rim and tubless tire is proving to be a pain. its shoooting air out the middle, and I have 8.8 grade hardware on there so tight it stripped one of the new bolts.
any suggestions?


he he look at what i found in the brakes! other than about two cups of brake dust and dirt.... can you see the pad linings lying there? lol - i had to soak the drum in acid forever to get some metal showing!!

[rally4x4racer]

the paint should be pretty tuff by now so im going to start putting it back together asap - i still need the bearing seals and im waiting on southern honda....

i was about to put the top end together last time i talked to you pat, and realized i put the valves in without putting the exhaust valve seal pieces in


I got some chrome wings. I might go there. - i think some hell fire figures ghosted in matching red would look good. theres not much room on the tank for graphix tho - so i may just slap some wings on it!

and go figure - I was working on the wheel today and got it all together and NO GO! that two piece rim and tubless tire is proving to be a pain. its shoooting air out the middle, and I have 8.8 grade hardware on there so tight it stripped one of the new bolts.
any suggestions?


he he look at what i found in the brakes! other than about two cups of brake dust and dirt.... can you see the pad linings lying there? lol - i had to soak the drum in acid forever to get some metal showing!!

[Vealmonkey]

Hey Jef, If you have an old innertube that is pretty good sized, you can make yourself a couple of gaskets. Just make sure you have a nice sharp pair of scissors and nice sharp x-acto knife. Allow yourself some room for expansion when you bolt the wheel halves together. The holes don't have to be real tight to the holes for the hub center or the bolt holes on the rim for the gasket will expand some when it compresses. Unless you want to go to the hassle of welding your rim halves together. Be careful, too much heat can warp the rims! I don't know what you have at your disposal, these are just some of the things I've done in the past. Gotta love those brake shoes, LOL.

[rally4x4racer]

right - theres an idea - I have some rubber matt about the same mil as a tube

my dilema is worse - since i locked the damn tire onto the rim - now i cant get it off! I dont have a tire iron or anything and im tired of fighting with it..

I really dread welding it - so - do I cut a piece of rubber and make holes for the bolts ? your so smart pat - that piece of rubber is lying in the corner and Im about to bust out the welder. ..

I will give the rubber a shot and see what happens - in the morning.

[rally4x4racer]

got the rubber gasket in and its sealing better but still will not seal completely with all 8 bolts in - depending on what pressure i put on it.

so, what pressure is the best for these things , since they have no suspension?

also, the stupid little spacers right behind the thread on the front axle... one of mine slips on and one of them has to be forced on. that doesnt matter does it? im guessing it doesnt because one end it against the fork ( and the fork isnt going anywhere *turning) so should I just keep hitting it with a hammer?? :banned:

hitting stuff with a hammer is fun ------------

forgetting where stuff goes SUCKS

hey what do you mean by expansion anyway? maybe thats my prob.....how would you keep the rubber from wrinkling besides crisscross 3 step tightening?

if the wheel bounces - its good enough for me

[Vealmonkey]

3 step tightening is fine, you may want to use a touch of silicone sealant if it still doesn't seal. Factory tire press is like 2.2 psi! I can give you the tire measurement at max fill but that would only work with stock like ohtsu or the cheng shin copies. Sound like you've got a handle on it. If your worried about the spacer, it will be a mother to get back off if you have to, use a little sandpaper. Post more pictures when you get a chance. That hammer idea isn't beer related is it???LOL

[rally4x4racer]

hey pat- besides the rubber gasket and the cyl - block gasket is there anything else in between the cyl and motor? like an oring or something? just checking - the gasket with the metal in it goes on top of the cyl, right? and then there is the fat o-ring on top of the cyl. so oil can get to the head. - just seems like im forgetting something.

cant get the rear axle in till the seals get here - since im waiting on the brake backing plate seal and the break cover seal.

its going SO SLOW! ha ha

[rally4x4racer]

Go Figure!! Im Waiting On The Valve Stem Seal From Honda - And I Have One In The Vesrah Gasket Kit!!

nevermind on that o-ring question - i looked at the fiche and looks like i got it all

i got off my arse and did a little work tonight, and got the top end back together mostly... now im rebuild a side cover i got off of ebay...wondering how imma get the alternator out of the old one.

someone wanna tell me the difference between an ATC 90 and 110 gasket kit?
DRATV sold me a 90 kit and said the head gasket wouldnt work ( i think thats what he said) and i compared it to my other kit (110 from ebay) and they looks the same. WTF??

AND WHAT THE HELL ARE ALL THESE LITTLE O-RINGS FOR?????

ha ha more pix soon... wanna get the motor done and back in the frame. but for now I wanna post a few B E F O R E pix...

[rally4x4racer]

so much for my happy ending.... here are some pix right before i took it out..

[rally4x4racer]

as soon as i got out to the field to brake the motor in it seems as the carb started leaking again..... assuming it could of done so while i was going up and down the street where a waterhose was close... heres the aftermath of my first ride

so much for this priject - looks like i got a wheel left

[Vealmonkey]

wtf Jef! I'm still stuck here at work, and look what you go and do. Hope you are ok. Call me later man or I'll call when I get home. That sucks dude.

[Tri-ZNate]

so the carb started leaking and it caught on fire? How did it do that again? Well it looked nice...

[team-red-rider]

*Edited* gonna fix it it truly dosent look totaled its fixable...its a honda! if *Edited* wanna get rid of it :) ill be glad to help *Edited* out peace ( and i hope *Edited**Edited* ok)

[rally4x4racer]

well - the float needle part of the carb body is so worn that i had a real hard time with the float needle seating - and i had to go thru the carb 3 or 4 times to get it to work without overflowing all over the place...

so i send dratv an email asking what all i need to go with the mikuni 20mm set up and in the meantime Rusty (my 3 yr old son) is psyched up about the bike actually running..

so i figured what the heck, we hopped on it and went up and down the street nice and easy maybe hitting 30 mph tops ( still break in) and the carb was not leaking -

so i cut thru the yard - and killed the bike to walk it thru some thick brush and palm trees getting Rusty back on the bike i saw fir- when i went to start it i noticed it was starting to leak again and thought " it must stop leaking when its running " so i climbed the bank to get into the field and as i was e....


i tossed him off and told him to RUN (lol) and yelled at the wife FIRE!!!! but the waterhose would not reach and all i could find was a little fire extinguisher - but with the fuel lines burned up and knowing there is half a tank of 93 octane - i wasnt getting any closer than 15 feet to try to save it (shrapnel when the tank pops) - so it burned until i got the hose from the front and extended the backyard hose to reach it.

kind of a waste - it looked good and acted like it was going to run good too..

Pat - since you bout got me talked into rebuilding it I will post the final damage when i get it figured out..

lesson learned: dont spend time making stuff pretty - just ride the hell out of it!

[rally4x4racer]

if anyone has donor parts let me kno! ha ha

[team-red-rider]

i have parts ill let *Edited* use i hate to c my first trike i ever owned go but its a good cause its an 84

[atctim]

Dude - that is heart breaking - Sorry about your loss. I have a very limited amount of 110 parts laying around. PM me if you need any.

BTW - it that a chromed pull start cover on that trike? I just picked one up last weekend. THey are still available at my local shop for like 12 bucks - ATC90 and 110 only - I thoughbt it was an odd part, but they are still available.

Tim

[rally4x4racer]

Nope - thats the orig. pull starter, I just shined it up a bit after stripping the paint. Chrome, huh? thats pretty cool .......

Heres the list of damage, I just tore the bike down to figure it out...

Two new turf tamers, set of maier fenders

Frame wiring harness, CDI box, Coil, headlight/run switch and wires (yep, all the wiring)

the renthal crosspad, grips and the motion pro twist throttle

the front brake cable and throttle cable

the seat foam and tank mount rubbers and the fuel cap gasket

plastic chain guide, a new petcock, carb is totally F'd now ( top melted in)


thats off the top of my head. - I think a parts bike is in order..
-if anyone has any of these parts they would spare for cheap for a good cause i would appreciate it. I already had 1200$ in the POS - now im trying to get her going cheap as possible to cut losses.

[Tri-ZNate]

yeah i have a parts bike, and I may have all the parts you need.

[rally4x4racer]

heres a thought that makes me mad -

since i tried putting the fire out by cupping my hands around the carb.. and when it didnt work i tried blowing it out like a birthday cake...

WHY DIDNT I HIT THE LEVER AND SAVE MY SEAT AND REAR FENDERS????

hindsight sucks!

[thefox]

Now that sucks! I wish I had some 110 parts to send your way. Did the gas just drain out of the tank and burn or wa there tank damage?

[rally4x4racer]

yea the carb started dumping fuel i guess ( no clue from where I had the overflow plugged ect) and the first thing to burn was the fuel lines so when that happened it just went up in flames - the tank is ok because the fuel was spewing out of it so fast it could not burn up into the tank and blow up ( i guess) it doesnt look to be leaking altho i have not tested it yet or tried to look for soot inside.

[Tri-ZNate]

$50 plus shipping and I'll send you everything you need. I have tires/rims, wiring harness, good looking tank, handlebars, levers, throttle lines, carbs. If you need it I got it. I also have a good seat and fenders but the fenders have some cracks. Figured I'd throw it out there.

[rally4x4racer]

would you take that 50$ in quarters? lol.. for a guy with no cash i have about 45 pounds of quarters... i will have to see what i can do. thanks

[rally4x4racer]

heres an update... its been a while but it was hard to get motivated after the BURN...

the cause of the fire - fuel leak - cause of the fuel leak was I didnt know there was an O ring that went between the carb and intake ( yea, like the recess for the o-ring was not obvious?)

STATUS - took Nate up on his offer and so far have a rolling chasis. started getting the motor back together and ran into a problem. I got the top end assembled and ready to go but the side cover seals are confusing me.

QUESTION - The side cover that goes to the block.... ( i will post a picture) but its the cover between the block and H/L cover.... it has three oil seals in it... one is for the nuetral indicator which is obvious - but the other two... one seal goes in the stator housing.. ( i assume the oil is blocked from the stator - so the flange would be away from that area) and the other is a seal for the H/L gears area. Im not real sure which way these seals go in. If anyone has one of these covers laying around I would appreciate a check - I would think the H/L gears need lube - but at this point im just LOST. Someone please tell me how these seals go so I can get this motor back in!

BTW - anyone have a stator with the wires on it?

thanks - R4R

[rally4x4racer]

nevermind.. i found a picture on ebay - looks like the H/L seal traps oil in - and the stator seal traps oil out - so far so good - will post pix soon.....

[burnoutboy]

Wow Mate, sorry to hear about ya loss... At least you are getting back into it. Good work.

[rally4x4racer]

thanks - its not like i got something better to do :)

[rally4x4racer]

double check on timing this thing...

put the pitston at the top of the stroke and inset cam with the lobes toward the rear of the engine - bolting the cam sprocket on with the dot towards the front of the motor. = static?

and finally.. turn the motor until the intake valve opens and closes - then place the flywheel on " T " with the Piston at the top of the stroke - line the CDI rotor up with the plate box and put the cover on.....

everything sound right here? last time i did this i put the cdi thing on at TDC of the power stroke - just want to make sure this time.

my clymer doesnt mention all this i dont think - and southern honda never sent me the book i paid for.. great service these days. thanks to anyone that can help

[Vealmonkey]

I thought you would have learned by now, LOL. Just busting your balls Jef.

[rally4x4racer]

runs pretty good now, still have some jetting or time probs working on tuning it a little. the main prob basically is the plug is getting wet with fuel. I am catching it before it wet fouls - but I would assume this is a weak spark or rich condition - altho earlier i thought it was running lean because it was coughing out the intake a bit. any ideas?

[team-red-rider]

lookin good 4x4

[Tri-ZNate]

Lookin good Jeff. So i take it that carb works fine then other than some jetting/timing issues? I'm glad to see it rolling under its own power now :beer

[rally4x4racer]

carbs good - thanks everything else is working fine too... im not sure if it is too rich (size 92 main) or if it is not sparking hot enough. it almost acts like it wants a hotter plug - but napa is miles away!

got the front wheel off the ground a little today - pretty hard on the ass without a seat LOL...

im chopping up some custom foot pegs for it today and should start getting the rest of the stuff in to finish it. will post as soon as i get pix

[Tri-ZNate]

Didnt I throw some new plugs in with the package?

[rally4x4racer]

yea - go the plugs thanks .. i keep fouling them!!

need some help here....

on timing - does someone have a REAL manual - and could tell me what mark the flywheel ( "T" or "F" ) is supposed to be at when the CDI rotor is in the firing position?

and, anyone have an open air intake on a 110? what jetting worked best for you if so?

Thanks!!

[rally4x4racer]

NEVERMIND - Thanks PAT!

in case anyone else is looking for the same timing ..

while keeping the idle at 1700 rpm keep adjusting the cdi plate until the "F" mark lines up when the timing light hits it.

( you have to adjust the idle a few times while changing it to keep it at 1700)

[rally4x4racer]

thought i would post some pix of the second hand rebuild :) rode around the feild for a while pretty fun... but it doesnt have enough juice - i still have to tune the carb up some it looks like.