correct summer plug for R?

[trikezilla]

I have been fouling plugs on my air cooler as the temp has been getting warmer, and the plug color is a oily black...and is kind of sticky. I have a 125 main jet in now (but thats what I had in last fall and summer and had no problems). Is there a different pluc I am supposed to run in the summer other than an NGK BR8ES? Should I rejet/rebuild the carb? When it runs it runs fine also and doent seem to be running rich at all as it revs all the way to WOT with ough "flat" or "boggy" spots. Last but not least, could oil in the expansion chamber from running it a little rich have any impact on this?

Thanks

[crackshot]

You are supposed to run cooler per Honda. BR9ES
What's your altitude? What gas\oil ratio you running?
You know what I found out? I jetted per Honda manual my altitude, mixed up a batch of Honda GN2 premix at 20:1 and guess what? No more problems!
Starts on 2nd kick after sitting for a few weeks, runs killer and have zero problems whatsoever.
Take my word for it, if Honda wanted people to use funky jetting, bizarre mixture ratios, they would have put it in the manual.
My advice is to go by the book.

[trikezilla]

Well, I have tried going by the book, or should I say the clymer. Currently I am at 40:1 with Bel-Ray synthetic in it. MY altitude is around 1000 or so feet aboove sea level (thats prbably a bit on the highside though.)

Does someone have the Honda owners manual for the 83R? If so can you tell me what I should be at?

So, Crackshot, you say I should run the BR9ES during the summer months then? Does the br9 just not get as hot as the br8 then?

thanks

[DeePa]

you can download it at deepa.recongamer.com

mike

[crackshot]

Yours is air cooled and the manual says it's ok to run B8ES or BR8ES all year long.
Premix is supposed to be 20:1 but you are running synthetic so who knows what mix is supposed to be. I don't run that crap to be honest. When I did, it jacked everything up on my wheeler. It fouled the plugs in one of my boat engines too.
The main jet is supposed to be a 158. Needle clip is centered.
Air screw is 1 3/8 turns out

I run old school trikes and use old school quality premixes. Honda GN2, Golden Spectro, Bel-Ray. Just as long as it is not synthetic.

And yes, download the manual is a must! http://deepa.recongamer.com/

[trikezilla]

Ok, well I will have to go over the carb and check everything. Why do you not like synthetic? I will download that too then.

[crackshot]

Why do you not like synthetic?

Because I think it is garbage. It fouls plugs, makes things extra oily and have to farg with jetting all the time.
Manufactures did not design trikes to run on that crap.
I have not yet to see any proof that it protects any better than GN2, Bel-Ray, Golden Spectro or Castor.
If you want to run it, that's personal choice and more power to you.

[nouseforaname90]

Use some Lucas Semi-Synthetic High Temperature 2-Stroke Racing oil. That stuff will change your mind about synthetic oils. Its not completely synthetic, but semi. There is no smoke, very few fouled plugs, etc etc.. very good stuff. I've had my R for about 3 months now and the plug still looks great/have yet to foul a plug.

[BigGreenMachine]

Change your mix ratio to 32:1 to lean it out a little bit. Keep with the plug your using and keep everything else the same.

At what throttle range does the bike foul a plug?

James

[ChrisD]

What are you talking about....synthetic oils suck? That's rediculous. Trust me, there is no conspiracy to sell you another $5 jet.

I have run my woods bike on HP2 for the past 10 years and only rebuilt it once. I run it at 32:1 and it runs clean, does not load up like traditional oils. The only time I change the plug is when it gets worn.

If Honda didn't want you to run synthetic, then why do they sell HP2?

As far as jets go, I run a 190 in the winter and a 185 in the summer. That's it! Of course I don't run a slug of a motor either. I run a fully modded 270 motor in it and it rips....slow or fast without load up.

I have a race bike too, but that bike is always apart for other reasons so it's not fair to judge it, but I will always buy synthetic oil and will be happy with it.

[trikezilla]

It fouls the plug between 1/4 open and 1/2 open (the throttle position that is).

if there are oils that dont smoke, how do you know if it is mixed correctly before its too late? does the plug color change like when you run a "smoey" oil?

[TimSr]

First, your plug question - You are running the correct one. Sometimes people run one a little hotter (lower number on NGKs) in winter to keep from fouling during warmup mode when the run rich. Going to a colder plug will make your problem worse.

Your oil question - BelRay MC1 or HR1 at 40:1 is fine. The proper mixture is determined by the oil you run. Synthetics can run at 50:1 just fine. I always ran BelRay at 50:1, but 40:1 will not give you a problem. is fine. Changing your mix to 32:1 again, will make your problem WORSE. I dont know a polite way to this this, but the post touting the virtues of old fashioned conventional oil over synthetics is the biggest nonsense Ive ever seen posted. The reason synthetics arent mentioned in the original manual is that MOST WERENT INVENTED YET. Look in a manual for a NEW machine. The fact that someone has difficulty setting up their carb for thier mix does not mean that all sythetic oils are defective. They usuallly come in 12.8oz bottle so you can just dump a bottle into your 5 gal can for a 50:1 mix. By the way, Golden Spectro and Bel Ray oils ARE synthetic! I switched to Blue Marble a few years ago, but thats just my preference. I feel its even better than MC1.

Bike run leaner in colder temperatures once they warm up to full operating temp. I take it youve done someplug readings at open throttle to know your not fouling there. This means your problem can probably be solved just by lowering the needle on the carb slide by raising the circlip. This leans it out a little until you get the throttle about 3/4 of the way open leaving the upper end the same. I run all mine lean on the needle to help keep them from loading up when trail riding. Its a lot harder to do damage running lean at 1/2 throttle than open throttle.

You also may want to do a compression check if you havent had problems in the past. One of the first signs of a worn top end is rich looking running conditions eventually followed by difficulty kickstarting when cold.

[trikezilla]

Ok, well it is hard to start when cold, but always does. I have found its starts better when I turn the DAJ to a leaner position. I have had this problem for a while, but its never been bad or fouled plugs so quickly. I will run the next tank at 40:1 and take it form there. So Tim, by the sounds of your post if the 40:1 doesnt fix it I need to adjust the circlip then and go from there?

Thanks