View Full Version : T3 together but carb angle causing float problem
nd4speed
04-18-2006, 09:11 PM
Assembled and fired up my trike two weeks ago. Rode it around the block. Put it away. Left the gas on.
This weekend it would not start. Plug completely wet. Tried to rejet since it ran rich before I changed the rotted carb boot. Plug was still soaked. Tried a carb from my quad. Same result. Figured it was flooded from the gas being on.
I believe it is a float issue since this RAD Valve I used angles the back of the carb upward. So I adjusted the floats some and there was less gas on the plug and some fire in the cylinder. But there was standing gas between the boot and the carb.
So is it even possible to run a carb like this on an angle?
Oh yeah and some gas came out where the pipe and silencer meet. How bad is that? I should probably take it back apart.
Can the crankcase get so flooded it won't start? And what do you do if so?
http://home.att.net/~nd4speed/carb.jpg
BigGreenMachine
04-18-2006, 09:36 PM
First thing first is to check your electrical connections as you may not be getting the hot spark you need. Check your timing as well, the plate could have shook loose and if its off just a little it will give you a headache.
The carb looks tilted I agree.
The KX rad valve fit no problems?
If the crank case is full you need to get the bike rolling in neutral with the plug out then put it in second gear to clean her out.
nd4speed
04-18-2006, 09:46 PM
I believe the electrical is fine.
So you are saying the angle of the carb would not be a problem if it was adjusted right?
There is just too much gas everywhere that was not there before cause I just put it back together.
Like any KX 83-96 boot will fit and all KX500 87-04.
nd4speed
04-18-2006, 10:04 PM
Ok so the gas will stay parallel with the ground even if the carb is tilted.
So the pilot? And air screw?
I could not get the air screw to turn as none of my screwdrivers fit it and it looks peened into place. Any suggestions there?
I am gonna try my straight boot off my 84 next.
BigGreenMachine
04-18-2006, 10:15 PM
The carb angle does not look that bad to me. What have you changed from the teardown? Check your timing plate and make sure it is aligned properly.
James
nd4speed
04-18-2006, 10:30 PM
I changed nothing on the motor except the carb boot.
Maybe the crankcase has excess fuel in it? Hence oily gas dripping at the silencer.
The carb boot flange had a little puddle of gas in it.
(Please god dont let it be the electrical - Supposedly it was recently replaced)
Erics350x
04-19-2006, 11:41 AM
try setting the float abit lower.
OZQUAD44
04-19-2006, 05:15 PM
Is the needle and seat of your float mechanism sealing?
I had to buy a new needle and seat for my tecate carb, and new packing for the fuel tap to fix my fuel issues
nd4speed
04-22-2006, 01:03 PM
I took it apart today and found:
GAS IN PIPE!
Like a cup.
So it would fire but suck gas in from the pipe and flood the plug.
Float needle works. So what happened?
So WTF to do about gas in the crankcase? Just kick it over with plug/ pipe removed?
Really don't feel like flippin it over.
nd4speed
04-22-2006, 04:40 PM
I got it runnin- for now.
Now it just needs some nice new $200 reproduction rad shrouds.
BigGreenMachine
04-22-2006, 05:50 PM
Nice! Bet it hauls! What thumb throttle/cable you have on there?
OZQUAD44
04-22-2006, 10:44 PM
Nice machine you have there. I like the green fork boots, what are they off? There is a guy on here that makes plastic repro shouds that are suppose to be Good. I'm saving my pennies for a set of those.
I know 1985 and 1986 KX 250 motors are virtually the same as 1986/7 Tecate motors. So I've got a KX to KXT engine interchange question.
Is it possible to slip a KX250 barrel and carby onto an 86/87 KXT bottom end?
If so what year models can fit, and will I still be able to use my KXT Pipe?
BigGreenMachine
04-23-2006, 02:33 AM
I know the KX stuff bolts onto the first gen Tecates, pipe as well so in theory the 2nd gen stuff should swap as well.
nd4speed
04-23-2006, 05:04 PM
First, the thumb throttle says Yamaha and its connected to a 38mm carb all of which came on the trike.
Rode it around the block and it runs leaner and meaner now. (Still gotta jet it right). I am not sure I am gonna like the stock gearing (new Primary Drive sprockets from Rocky MTN ATV) but its what I'll have to use for now. Anybody know what rear sprockets fit so I can go larger than 37 tooth?
I dont have firsthand experience but I agree the 85/86 KX cylinder (and even the head) should bolt on the trike bottom and the KXT pipe should fit. I saw an auction for an 89 KX pipe that looked quite similar and considered buying it to try it. IMO it would be easier/cheaper/universal to put a '96 or earlier KX250 (or any KX500) motor in than it would be to keep fixin the KXT. That is my plan.
As far as the KX manifold boot alignment to carb to airbox.....??????? I know this 94-96 KX Rad valve 12A alignment is jacked up. I would like to have gotten a Rad valve -12 for pre-'93 KX but I haven't seen one cheap.
I am in the process of building a Suzuki Quadracer L250R 87-92 bottom with an 1986 NOS cylinder/head from an Suzuki RM motorcycle. It is gonna work and will have higher compression and better porting cause motorcycles were always setup for more power than quads. I assume the same for the KX and KXT A or B.
The green fork boots came with the bent forks that were on it. So they went on good forks from the parts roller I picked up. I have seen boots like that even at a Auto accessory shop for truck shocks I think.
I was hoping to get shrouds from that member since I live in michigan too, but when they bring in $200 on ebay.... I'll go without until they are reasonable, I find others, I use the busted up ones I have, or make my own.
nd4speed
04-23-2006, 05:08 PM
Also maybe instead of starting a new thread I need a new Front brake line.
What front brake lines from motorcyle applications can I use?
OZQUAD44
04-24-2006, 08:28 AM
I don't know about in the State's but here in Australia, I just get the local hydraulic hose guy to make up a steel braided line for me.
Great for brake applications and pretty well universal applications
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