Louis Mielke
05-25-2006, 11:50 PM
I've had a few people ask me about the accu-start system on the 500 so I figured I'd post about it a little bit.
First heres a picture of the system, as you can see it involved moving the water spigot, and the plunger assembly on the backside of the cylinder.
Included with the kit is the modifications to your cylinder, decompress cable and decompress lever. i opted to use a kill switch assembly off of a TRX450r for the sake of ergos and the stock look. The TRX lever is kinda short and a bit of a hassle to setup.
You send the dude your cylinder, comes back like this. Now my personal experience was not 100% flawless. The new location of the spigot interfered with my FMF pipe. The guy offered to move it again for me to fix the problem but for the sake of time I opted to dent the pipe in to clear the spigot. Wasn't too bad.
Another issue. When you use the decompress you will get a tiny amount of "exhaust spooge" leaking out the plunger assembly. Neccessary evil i suppose but its just like what leaks out around exhaust pipes on occassion and is only a tiny amount as once the plunder is closed it no longer leaks.
Operation, hold the lever and kick it. Bike will fire, mine does require choke at this point though its not dial in yet, and it will run if you hold the valve open, I don't think this is recomendable but it will continue to run and make all kindsa farting noises. Let off the lever and you can literally feel the motor come up to correct compression. Basically all the valve does is delay the point where the cylinder seals aroudn the piston causing the point of compression to come higher in the cylinder.
So far so good, I like it alot. I was told that when I'm ready to bore, or resleave its recomended that they do the machine work.
Also included is a pic of my modified blaster kicker. This kicker clears my fenders. Not real fun to kick without the decompress but its doable. With the decompress. Not much worse than starting a new CR250r.
UPDATE: How did they do it? Did they weld the water jacket? From my inspection it looks as if they taped all the way through the cylinder wall but as far as the welding I'm not sure. The spigot looks like it was actually epoxied in, the plunger system has a large aluminum threaded sleave that runs all the way through the cylinder wall then the plunger screws into that sleeve. I guess effectively you could seal the water jacket without welding by using this cutsom threaded sleeve, possibly epoxying it before they screwed it in and then put the plunger into the sleeve.
I don't know if I'm answering this question well enough. Basically it looks like they drilled all the way through the cylinder wall, tapped it, threaded in thier own custom insert and then I screwed the plunger into the insert when i received it back in my package.
First heres a picture of the system, as you can see it involved moving the water spigot, and the plunger assembly on the backside of the cylinder.
Included with the kit is the modifications to your cylinder, decompress cable and decompress lever. i opted to use a kill switch assembly off of a TRX450r for the sake of ergos and the stock look. The TRX lever is kinda short and a bit of a hassle to setup.
You send the dude your cylinder, comes back like this. Now my personal experience was not 100% flawless. The new location of the spigot interfered with my FMF pipe. The guy offered to move it again for me to fix the problem but for the sake of time I opted to dent the pipe in to clear the spigot. Wasn't too bad.
Another issue. When you use the decompress you will get a tiny amount of "exhaust spooge" leaking out the plunger assembly. Neccessary evil i suppose but its just like what leaks out around exhaust pipes on occassion and is only a tiny amount as once the plunder is closed it no longer leaks.
Operation, hold the lever and kick it. Bike will fire, mine does require choke at this point though its not dial in yet, and it will run if you hold the valve open, I don't think this is recomendable but it will continue to run and make all kindsa farting noises. Let off the lever and you can literally feel the motor come up to correct compression. Basically all the valve does is delay the point where the cylinder seals aroudn the piston causing the point of compression to come higher in the cylinder.
So far so good, I like it alot. I was told that when I'm ready to bore, or resleave its recomended that they do the machine work.
Also included is a pic of my modified blaster kicker. This kicker clears my fenders. Not real fun to kick without the decompress but its doable. With the decompress. Not much worse than starting a new CR250r.
UPDATE: How did they do it? Did they weld the water jacket? From my inspection it looks as if they taped all the way through the cylinder wall but as far as the welding I'm not sure. The spigot looks like it was actually epoxied in, the plunger system has a large aluminum threaded sleave that runs all the way through the cylinder wall then the plunger screws into that sleeve. I guess effectively you could seal the water jacket without welding by using this cutsom threaded sleeve, possibly epoxying it before they screwed it in and then put the plunger into the sleeve.
I don't know if I'm answering this question well enough. Basically it looks like they drilled all the way through the cylinder wall, tapped it, threaded in thier own custom insert and then I screwed the plunger into the insert when i received it back in my package.