View Full Version : Problem with 110 Brakes
Rennat_2006
01-15-2007, 10:22 PM
I just put new rear shoes in my 110 and they seem to be dragging pretty bad. I've got the pedal adjustment screw barely on the threaded rod, maybe 2-3 threads and it is still hard to push the bike.
Are they always like this when they are brand new or have i done something wrong?
Vealmonkey
01-15-2007, 11:02 PM
you could have the oversize or thicker brakes shoes. Vesrah makes such a thing and they are for really worn out brake drums. You could try getting other shoes, sand your shoes down, or machine out your brake drum. I would probably get other shoes and save those shoes. If you over tighten your axle nuts, it could be the side of the brake drum hitting the brakes shoes though. Try loosening up your axle nuts some and see if the dragging stops.
Rennat_2006
01-16-2007, 12:23 AM
you could have the oversize or thicker brakes shoes. Vesrah makes such a thing and they are for really worn out brake drums. You could try getting other shoes, sand your shoes down, or machine out your brake drum. I would probably get other shoes and save those shoes. If you over tighten your axle nuts, it could be the side of the brake drum hitting the brakes shoes though. Try loosening up your axle nuts some and see if the dragging stops.
The ebay auction didnt say anything about oversize or anything. The drum went on them snug but Overtightened axle nuts may be it i did crank them down pretty good. How tight are they supposed to be?
jason85atc250r
01-16-2007, 12:32 AM
if you unthread the brake rod does your atc roll okay? does not drag
if you unhook the brake rod and pull back on the actuator lever and it rolls freely then you need to move the arm forward. you can unbolt the arm at the splines and move it a tooth or to forward. that will give you more adjustment to play with
maybe since you could barely got the threaded rod started maybe it's like your holding the brakes on. if you unthred the rod and pull back and it's rolls nice then it's what i explained in the previous paragraph
Vealmonkey
01-16-2007, 12:36 AM
On the axle nuts I always play it by ear, meaning different with every trike. I want a little but not much side to side movement. Try bracing your feet against your frame and pulling against your wheel with alot of force, not jerking but steady pressure. If you get some movent, and I'm taling about thousandths of an inch, you'll be ok. No movement is bad, alot of movenement is bad. When I say alot I mean like an 1\8th inch is too much movement side to side! The other thing is, did you change brake drums. Some break drums are not interchangable between the years! Later model brake drums, 82 and later if I remember right, are not interchangable with with 81 and earlier, and the us90 brake drums will only work with us90. If your using an 81 or earlier brake drum on an 82 or later axle and bearing carrier, it won't work either. So I hope you know where all your parts came from. I've found this out the hard way from working with aftermarket frames that use the 81 and later bearing carriers. You can't swap around the axles either so be careful. The 75 and later axles will fit pretty much anything, but the splines are cut in slightly different spots and will give you fits also. The earlier model atc110 axle bearing carriers have 3 bolts that hold them in place and the later model axel carrier bearing have 2 bolts that hold them in place and the 85 has 2 bolts, but it is adjusted at the axle carrier and doesn't have the chain wheel tensioner. So be careful about mixing and matching parts.
Rennat_2006
01-16-2007, 12:39 AM
I will unthread it all of the way and see what it does.
I thought there was a different spline that could only go in one spot on the lever. I will look into this more and report back.
It is all 1983 parts.
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