need expert advice-extractor broken off "sh**"!!!! (pictures)

[jagerlager]

YTM 200K

Hello all!
One of my clutch plate screws broke off at the threads (marked with an "x") I got 1/2 of the threads out with an extractor, then broke a "+" style extractor about 1/4 inch of it off in the last piece. way at the bottom.
I would assume now I have to pull off the next cover section and try to dig it out?
probably not a good Idea to reassemble without this bolt???
I wouldnt think the hardened steel extractor could be drilled out could it???

[atcfreak85]

I don't see any pics! Where are they?

[jagerlager]

O.K. fixed the picture thing... sorry about that.

[Gumby]

there are some extractor sets that might work.try this sight .if it loads right
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAGE=309&PMT4NO=17067627&PMT4TP=*ITPD&PMITEM=05025010&PMCTLG=00

[burnoutboy]

I had the same problem as you. My local engeneering firm extracted it for $10.

[ceaserthethird]

Take the Next Cover off , drill it out from the rear if possible ( once cover is removed )

If you need to - do a HeliCoil Kit - from Napa auto parts ...

[rally4x4racer]

drilling out from the rear sounds good - also when this is not possible there are left handed drill bits that seem to work well.
sometimes penetrating oil and heat may help but the best tool for these problems is patience.



ha ha at expert help!

[Dirtcrasher]

If the extractor is in there you can forget about the drill bit..... You can try getting a piece of carbide, put it in a milling machine and get it spinning real fast and that will melt/destroy a hardened extractor, tap or other hardened metal. Only other way is to chip it out with a good punch, it's hardened but it will shatter or chip away in pieces.

[jagerlager]

I can sure see how patience is the best tool for stuff like this!

I dont know how drilling it from the back would work since the stuck extractor and bolt bottom are all the way down to the case (black line in the pictures). so probably just take the next case section off and see if I can work the extractor out ... or take it to someone qualified to do such things, its so much fun to do it yourself though!

I shouldve easily known that the extractor was starting to bend though!!!! and then... SNAP. hindsight

[rally4x4racer]

true - i did not read that very carefully. putting a drillbit ontop that extractor is going to make it worse.

so far i think the backside is your best bet if you can get to it. just start drilling and it should eventually catch and turn the threads out.

by the way - extractors suck. if you need one in the future try to use something else prior to going extractor mode. I use the "gripper" sockets and lefty's - in fact i almost always break the extractors when i use them. Maybe we should quit buying the cheap *Edited**Edited**Edited**Edited*?

[ceaserthethird]

Been their done that ... ReMove the Case - drill from the back adding lot's of wd40 or pb blaster .

if you damage the threads - buy a HeliCoil Kit from NAPA auto parts ...

It does take - Patience & Time

[Dirtcrasher]

It doesn't look like he can get to the back. Looks like the right center case is where the threads are and that may not have anything for a backside other than a lump of cast aluminum. Not to mention that it looks like he will have to split the case to get to it. I'd find a way to get out that hardened stuff and then drill it out and hope to get a 6mm metric helicoil in there or change threads to something a bit larger. What is that? An auto 200 motor??

[ceaserthethird]

Should look at a Manual see if it's possible to remove from the rear ( Before Removing the Case )

If you can't figure it out , Just take it to a machine shop ...

[jagerlager]

Yeah.. its a yamaha ytm 200 motor.
threads are 6mm
I removed the clutch stuff and removed the next case part. Its just a hair over 1/8" of the hardened steel extractor in there and about that first 1/8"of threads are messed up at this point. tried to drill it out with a better bit... no go, just spun on the top.
perhaps a diamond dremmel bit could grind it out??

Ill try to get some better pictures of it now that Im right on it.

[jagerlager]

A better picture, with the cases off.

[Dirtcrasher]

You should stuff rags in the motor and break that hardened crap up -especially if there is only a little in there, then just helicoil it. I busted a dozen or more taps inside parts over my lifetime, always just kept resquaring the end of my pin punch on a grinder and having at it with the broken tap.

Did that bolt just hold the cover to that case half? Or did the bolt go through that case and thread into the other side case.

[jagerlager]

The thread is just for the two clutch covers. it stops inside shortly after the bolt.

theres not much of the extractor in there so maybe it wont be so difficult.

[dufrain]

if you drill anything hardend use a cobalt bit,they have them at lowes in dewalt brand

[Dirtcrasher]

CARBIDE is the only material I know of that will get through hard stuff. And it has to be spun very fast to work.

I have placed 2 tiny steel rollpins in the head of a pair of vicegrips and worked things out with some success.

[Billy Golightly]

This is all you need: http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/N2DRVSH?SISHNO=2741742&SISRCH=1&SIS0NO=502782&SIT4NO=17199162

Expensive yes, but a tool that holds more value then you would believe at the time of purchase.

[Name Brand]

If you are good with a welder you can do this if the bolt/extractor is not in the hole too deep (almost at the surface). I watched a welder TIG a tiny ball on the top of a broken extractor, he let it cool and then welded another ball on top of the first and so on until he had about four stacked vertically and above the surface; just enough to get a vise-grips pliers on. Very slowly and gently he moved it back and forth and slowly loosened the extractor and pulled it out. He then welded another ball onto the bolt and slowly removed that one the same way. This was done on one of the intake tube bolts on the aluminum head of a 125m engine. This bolt is about 3/16 of an inch wide. Becuase he was patient and careful this head did not worp and even the threads were not damaged.

I've used the same procedure to remove broken of bolts in aluminum and steel parts. The only difference was I used my wire feed welder since I don't have TIG. Cover everything but the bolt/extractor in tinfoil, don't get the case too hot and be very patient when working the pieces out.

If you're unsure; drill and thread a hole in some scrap metal, turn a broken bolt off into it and do a practice run first.

[jagerlager]

Great advice everybody! how much do I owe ya!?

Ill have another crack at it tomorrow.

always learning

[jagerlager]

Victory!!!

just patiently dug it out with piks, punches, small drill bits etc...

re tapped at 6mm cleaned up the threads with a little of that epoxy stripped thread fix stuff.

should work.

thanks for your help!

[ceaserthethird]

If that dosen't hold up on the thread's - use a helicoil kit .