351 windsor build up (updated!!!!)

[250r'en +TCB]

Looking to build up a 351W for now, basically get as many ponnies as possible but still keep it steet worthey and practical (not talking about gas :lol: ). Anyway I was originally gonna go for a classic mustang, but then I realized that it's a pain to find rollers in decent shape and standard transmission!!! So now I figure a fox body is the way to go. Plus I wouldn't feel as bad about having to put a roll cage in one and do any hacking/welding that may become necassary. I could build up a 302, but since the prices for stuff is all the same for a 351W I figure I mine as well give myself the displacement if I'm going to do the work....

Basically my question is this: Will a 351 windsor slide in easily to a 5.0 fox body mustang? If so what years???

and if I do have to force the engine in, what work will need to be done?

[devildog_0431]

I myself have always dropped motors in Chevy's, my truck I have now is my first Ford. I've seen alot of guys drop 307's into Mustangs. I've only heard of the 351 Windsor bein in trucks, never a sports car. hmm, I'm not quite sure what to say other than you might have to run a higher pressure fuel pump under the hood, re-fit motor mounts, check your spacing for cluth fan and radiator and headers if *Edited**Edited* running them. I go to www.ford-trucks.com There are alot of guys there who do custom work and little projects on Ford Trucks and cars, they will be very helpful.

[Rockthunder]

Are you planning on sticking with fuel injection or moving to a 4V carburetor? The 351w will drop right in to a fox body mustang. Bell housing bolt pattern is the same as the small block 302. The deck height is taller on a 351w to allow for the longer stroke so the 302 EFI system will not bolt on.

[SWIGIN]

my buddy has a 351w in a fox....you will need a tall hood to clear the motor

[250r'en +TCB]

Going with a carb!!! and the taller hood looks beter anyway haha........ heck maybe i'll just run no hood at all!!!!!!

here's the plan for the engine though: 351W, bore it .30 over cause i know somebody with new 10.5:1 pistons for a .30 over. Then Gt-40X turbo swirl heads from jegs ($609 a peice but adds like 50hp!) aluminum intake, holley carb (not 100% on the cfm yet...) and some headers from jegs and flowmasters.... needless to say all this power should move a light little fox mustang along :)

[SWIGIN]

you might want to look at afr heads...they beat about every other head made in a head shootout the other year


they killed every street head made ...it wasnt till up in the 220cfm size heads that i think brodix just passed them in hp

this was a dyno test not just a cfm or air flow test

and the 165 or 185 heads added just shy of 100 hp to the test motor

http://www.airflowresearch.com/sbf.php

[nate b]

its an easy swap, just find a mid 80's car with the double sump oil pan(ltd, station wagon etc). dont know what year motor you got but they used diferent balance on the flywheel on some years 315w. If you dont have a factory v-8 car you should find a tranny crossmember for one, it makes it easier to run dual exhaust. I've put everthing from a 302,351c,351w,429,460 in fox body mustangs and t-birds. Also if you plan on starting with a 4-cyl. car you should change the rear axle right away to a 8.8"
NATE

[250r'en +TCB]

its an easy swap, just find a mid 80's car with the double sump oil pan(ltd, station wagon etc). dont know what year motor you got but they used diferent balance on the flywheel on some years 315w. If you dont have a factory v-8 car you should find a tranny crossmember for one, it makes it easier to run dual exhaust. I've put everthing from a 302,351c,351w,429,460 in fox body mustangs and t-birds. Also if you plan on starting with a 4-cyl. car you should change the rear axle right away to a 8.8"
NATE
Hey your exactly who I was hoping to find!!!!!:beer :w00t:

I do not know yet what year 351W i'm getting, should know soon though. I'd like to find a mustang that had a 5.0 in it originally. That would make things easier!! Also like I said a standard tranny. I'd be putting a ford racing 5-speed in it(.63 5th gear!!!:naughty: ). But by getting a car that was a standard orginally I'd be better off. I know some cars the driveshafts are different lengths.......

Gonna call on the engine tomorrow, hopefully go see it;)

[WIkid500]

Build your self a 347 out of that 302 you have. Forged goodies, a balanced rotating assembly. Then slap on a procharger. Do some work on the rear suspension, and drive train. Now you have your self one hell of a car minus the weight of the 351.


Have fun!



P.s. I like the notch backs better.. lol


If you want more info go to midwest mustang associacion http://www.sfx-1.com/

[ccdhowell]

A 351W trick, an old school hot-rodders trick, is to replace the heads with 351C heads. The Windsor is a small block with not so good flow, the Cleveland heads, a Cleveland being a big block, have much larger ports and flow much better intake and exhaust sides. They bolt right up and then you use a Cleveland intake manifold. My father built winning drag engines with this trick and Cleveland heads can be found in a junk yard and reworked by a local shop, saves money on expensive Windsor race heads. Chris

[nate b]

A 351W trick, an old school hot-rodders trick, is to replace the heads with 351C heads. The Windsor is a small block with not so good flow, the Cleveland heads, a Cleveland being a big block, have much larger ports and flow much better intake and exhaust sides. They bolt right up and then you use a Cleveland intake manifold. My father built winning drag engines with this trick and Cleveland heads can be found in a junk yard and reworked by a local shop, saves money on expensive Windsor race heads. Chris


that works fine except for the water passages dont all line up and a custom intake will probably cost you as much as a set of aluminum heads. I've done it to a 302 before. a cleveland is also not a big block

[nate b]

I'ts been a while since I worked on any of mine, but I almost think the driveshaft was the same length on an auto to a t-5. If not, its easy to get a longer one and cut it down yourself or have it done for probably 100 bucks. I've had some pretty awesome c-4 automatics built for my mustangs.
NATE

[250r'en +TCB]

Went and got a 351W today from the scrapyard. It's out of a running 1986 bronco. $300 and he is gonna rip it out of the car for me (good deal considering it's 5 degree's outside!!!)

My friend knows a guy who has basically everything you need to complete a shortblock. Oil pan, crank, rods, heads (cast iron with enlarged valves), intake and 10.5:1 pistons!!! The pistons are .030 over so get the engine bloack bored over and have them assemble and balence it!! crap is coming together finally!!

[longbedGTs]

Nice! Are you using a T-5? Get the T-56 out of a Viper and have a 6-speed Mustang! Any pics of the car? Im about to start a v8 project as well. Its going into a Ranger! Good luck and you might want to visit www.corral.net

[250r'en +TCB]

Nice! Are you using a T-5? Get the T-56 out of a Viper and have a 6-speed Mustang! Any pics of the car? Im about to start a v8 project as well. Its going into a Ranger! Good luck and you might want to visit www.corral.net
I don't have the car yet lmao....... I'm building the engine first. Gonna look for a mid to late 80's roller fox mustang. As for the tranny, defiantly this http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_748085_-1_10561 I like that .68 5th gear:naughty:

[200x Basket]

nate has posted some good info, i would disregard all the rest.

the fox platform will be a good car. the 79-93 are all decent cars BUT i would stick with the 87-93 models. they have a thicker floor pan and have the 8.8 rear if they are a v8 car. the drive shaft is the same lenght for a stick or an auto.

the 351w is a easy swap into a mustang. you will need 351w swap headers. i would get 1 3/4" long tubes. BBK are a decent low buck header. you will need a 28oz 4 bolt balancer to use the mustang serpintine belt. you will need a double sump 351w oil pan. you will need a 351w ac bracket or ac delete bracket. that is about it. I would look into some afr185's for the heads or maybe even 205's. for a 351w get a vic jr intake and 750 carb. dont even mess the RPM intake. the 351w has plenty of torque so you will not miss it.

the stock t5 will not live long behind a 351w if you beat it. I ahve kille dabout a dozen of them. I have also done c4 autos and now i have a powerglide behind a 438 windsor stroker motor!!

you will also have to rework the fuel system to use a carb

[250r'en +TCB]

as far as the tranny goes, NO CLUTCH = NO GLORY!!! hahaha has to be a standard!!!!

thanks for the help 200x basket ;)

[250r'en +TCB]

went out and bought an engine. It was out of an 86 bronco. Stripped it down to the block today in my automotive class. Then after school i went out and bought all this...... (8) new 10.5:1 pistons (.030 over) and remanufactured rods, brand new flywheel, remanufactored and balenced crankshaft, complete gasket set, all bearings, couple aluminum parts as well..... All for $600:w00t:

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e306/ATCteen/me_stuff.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e306/ATCteen/me_stuff1.jpg

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http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e306/ATCteen/me_stuff_010.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e306/ATCteen/me_stuff_011.jpg

Going to bring the block in early next week. Talked to the guy and for acid bath (done 3 times), boring .030 over, squairing the block and assembling to a short block at the end will run me about $600 as well. He is one of the best engine rebuiders in the area though......

Anybody know where I can find online service manuels for a Ford 351 Windsor engine? something like servicehonda.com but for cars???

[700srx]

You mentioned "remanufactored and balenced crankshaft"...
Was this crank balanced together with the flywheel, damper, rings, bearings, rods, pistons & pins? This is the only way to properly balance the engine. Part of the balance process is weighing all of the pistons and removing weight from the heavy ones to match the lightest, also weighing the small end of the connecting rod and making all the same, weighing the big end of the connecting rod and making all the same, as well as making sure the flywheel and balancer are compatible balancewise with each other and the crank. All 351W's were
"externally" balanced from the factory, all with I believe 28 oz imbalance, as opposed to "internal" or the heavier 50? oz imbalance of some 302's. If your crank has been "neutral/internal" balanced, or if your flywheel or damper aren't also matched properly, then you will likely have a vibration that you won't like!

Also, I see your aluminum front timing cover has a cast-in tab protruding from the lower passenger side. Does this have timing marks on it? I suspect this is a later cover, as the earlier (70's and likely into the 80's at least) didn't have this tab but had a separate sheet metal timing pointer that attached to the two bolt holes right next to your cast-in-place tab. Someone else here probably can fill you in better on this cast-in tab better than me, I've never worked with one and just want to make sure you'll be able to properly time your engine. Might want to test assemble the cover and the damper to the shorblock, and if the cast-in tab is actually a timing pointer, make sure the 0 deg/TDC mark on the damper lines up properly (or re-mark the damper if you want).

Ford Racing makes an oil pan conversion kit for fox body cars, I think it includes the correct oil dipstick. They may make one that has more stuff also, like the timing cover and maybe water pump, check their website or catalog available at Ford dealers, performance shops, and online. Good luck