Need advise on what to do: 350x fuel tank

[p26575r16]

Finally got the X running again tonight. I put it up in march with a tank full of vp 110 octane. Needless to say, it ate the seals out of my fuel petcock and leaked everywhere. I tried to remove the petcock, but the big nut is on so tight that it is spinning the treaded part inside the tank (I have an aftermarket plastic tank). I stopped there, My question is does anyone have an idea on what to do? I don't have the money for a new tank right now and the fuel is only leaking arount the big nut (it must have came a little loose, the petcock spins now), JB weld it, or anything like that? I should also mention that the 2 allen head screws holding the whole assembly in the tank are so tight that they are stripping, trying to get them loose, and I don't what to make the problem any worse than it is. Thanks

[bigreddaddy]

Well, I don't think you will be able to jb weld it if it has gas leaking there. You can try drilling the small screws and tapping in a torx bit and break them loose with a ratchet.

[Dirtcrasher]

Ugggh, remind me to never leave in race gas for a long period.... What is that petcock thread pressed in or something?? Is it a Clarke or I forget what mine is but it's BIG...

[rally4x4racer]

jb weld should be impermeable to fuel??

[p26575r16]

I am not sure who makes the tank, it's about 3.5 gallons or bigger though. I know its about 10 years old. I am not sure if its threaded into the tank or not. I believe its just got a o ring seal that is between the base of the fitting and the tank. I cannot get the base off due to overtightening of the 2 bolts. It's not leaking there so I think I will just try to jb it for a while. I really want to make sure everything else is o.k. before I spend a ton of money on a tank. I may end up cutting the bolts off and putting a plug in it, and then make a new fitting.

[Dirtcrasher]

I am not sure who makes the tank, it's about 3.5 gallons or bigger though. I know its about 10 years old. I am not sure if its threaded into the tank or not. I believe its just got a o ring seal that is between the base of the fitting and the tank. I cannot get the base off due to overtightening of the 2 bolts. It's not leaking there so I think I will just try to jb it for a while. I really want to make sure everything else is o.k. before I spend a ton of money on a tank. I may end up cutting the bolts off and putting a plug in it, and then make a new fitting.


I think you have the same tank I have. The allen bolts are stripped where the allen wrench would go?? If you can't grab the head with vice grips, I'd slice them with a dremel and use an impact screwdriver.

Don't just dump JB weld on it, it could fail when your far from home and that suks. My tank has an oring under that aluminum base.

[blue27]

This stuff is available at most NAPA, Auto Zone, etc and I have had excellant results with it, you should keep some on hand for emergencies anyway. You can even apply it when wet with fuel. Does not work on Diesel.

http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/specialized_maintenance_repair/radiator_fuel_tank_repair/Permatex_Instant_Gas_Tank_Repair.htm

[Erics350x]

JB Weld wont hold up to fuel.

[rally4x4racer]

JB Weld wont hold up to fuel.

http://jbweld.net/products/uses.php They sure seem to think it does.



I use it on my fuel tanks no problem.

[Erics350x]

i've had it fall of on everyone i've put it on.

[rally4x4racer]

really? I purposely make the holes bigger and push metal to the inside, clean with denatured alcohol and apply. The first round of JB will sink into the hole and grip the inside. It almost always takes two applications to get a good seal for me.

the one I am working on now the JB will be visible under the paint. I had to dent in the leaking area so when I get the JB on I can go over it with filler instead of trying to hide it under paint.

[p26575r16]

I know this is an old thread, but I have an update. I ended up temporarily sealing the leak with some of that jb weld looking putty from the parts store that states it seals even under water. All I can say is everyone should keep some of that in their toolbox. It worked very well, but it was not a permanent fix. I called clarke and found out they offer a new petcock that replaces the original assembly. The only difference is there is no reserve. I told them I was not sure if my tank was a clarke and they said if it has the two outer holes with the petcock in the middle it will work. I ended up ordering it for $16 (plus a ridiculous $8.50 shipping). I recieved it the other day and it took care of my problem. I was very impressed with that company (clarke). They were very helpfull and very nice on the phone.

[aldochina]

good to know!! glad you updated. 3 yrs later!!lol!!

[sittinguy]

Take a mini hack saw and cut the nut, once the nut is cut through it should pop loose and come off.

The OEM tanks look SO MUCH better than the plastic ones, Don't give up on you metal tank. New ones are not available as far as I know