Help with 82 R

[SuperYooper]

Bought a pretty beat but fun 82 250r few months back. I know little of engines, anyways since i have bought it it makes this rattle that sounds like metal on metal right before wide open and then when you give it a little more it would smooth out. Then today riding home off the ice ( where we were the first to cross the michigamee backwaters haha ) anyways it was making that noise and then totally seized i think engine died and wheels locked up at about 50 i grabbed clutch luckily and didnt pile it up kick start was locked wouldnt budge but then i pushed it backwards a bit and then it would kick but no more compression realy loose now and doesnt run(dont want to run it till rebuild) but question is did i just blow it up and any tips on how to rebuild it. I feel i could probably do it myself because i tend to be good at taking things apart but ive never played around with small engines. And what kind of costs am i looking for. Super bummed out thats it died but pumped we claimed first crossing this year. ahhhh plz help

Tom

[SYKO]

sounds like it had to much clearance in the top end, though air cooled R's tend to rattle a bit more then other air cooled machines, it may have just ran till it something broke from the slap of the piston back and forth.

luckly its a 2 stroke parts are still avail and realativly low compared to a 4 stroke cousin.

most likely though the cases will need to be split to make sure no bottom end damage was done if the piston came apart.

edit: cost could be as low as a bore and new piston/rings and top end gaskets $125-200

or full rebuild including bottom end $200-600 possibly more

[BOB MARLIN]

It was probrably "pinging" due to being too "lean", thus causing it to seize up.

[SuperYooper]

was mixed at 20:1 as the tank says. The sound was more like a rattle. Realy dont have a clue and wont till its in pieces i guess.

[Tri-Z Pilot]

was mixed at 20:1 as the tank says. The sound was more like a rattle. Realy dont have a clue and wont till its in pieces i guess.

That's your oil to fuel ratio, not your fuel to air ratio. Although 20to1 is leaner than 50to1 (less gasoline present in 20to1 due to more oil takin up space). Your jets in the carb are what you adjust/change to make your air/fuel ratio go from lean to rich. I'm willing to be you were running lean the whole time, then road the machine hard the other day in the colder weather (cold weather leans out the motor also), and ended up melting down the top end. Being air cooled doesnt help either as they are even more prone to blowing the top end when ran lean.

You could of also had some clearance issues as syko said, which caused some piston slap then the piston skirt to break. It could have also been the connecting rod bearings goin out too.

You wont really know till you tear into the motor.

[1upfront]

What grade of fuel do you run because I've ran 87 octane before and it caused horrible pinging at WOT and will cause damage in the long run.

[SuperYooper]

93 is all i run in it. When it first died on me it was seized but now is free and moving. I know that it was leaking exaust from where the jug connects to the bottom if you try to kick it over. Is that a sign of something worse than just the gasket?? And hey much thanks for any and all answers cuz i have no clue what im doing.

[SYKO]

jug connects to the bottom? you meen the cyl to lower end? leaking? yea bad coud have gotten a serious lean condition then.

if you need help the man that posted above you is the air fooler goto guy 1upfront

[SuperYooper]

ok So went out and messed with it a bit like i had said erlier it had locked up on me i thought when driving it and i towed it home and is leaking from where the cyl meets the lower end just on the left side and not very much. kicked a few times and it ran like normal. Baffled by it totaly here i thought it was totaly locked up and dead and now it ran drove it around the yard a few times. but exaust does leak from that side. And sounds kinda rattly still. Think should keep it parked Eh??

[SYKO]

do a top end rebuld before you have to shell out a but load of money for a complete rebuild! its not hard, dont let it intimidate you.

[oOGoFastOo]

I had a cr250 lock up when it was ideling and it was because the piston skirt broke off and wedged under the crank this could be what happend to yours and when you rolled it back the piece came out if i were you i would at least pull the top end off and inspect the piston.

[Blown 331]

luckly its a 2 stroke parts are still avail and realativly low compared to a 4 stroke cousin.


Touche, but if it was a 4 stroke it wouldn't need rebuilt at all. shens

[Blown 331]

I had a cr250 lock up when it was ideling and it was because the piston skirt broke off and wedged under the crank this could be what happend to yours and when you rolled it back the piece came out if i were you i would at least pull the top end off and inspect the piston.

That is what happened to my 250R and when the piston skirt wedged under the crank it pushed both crank case halves out, pretty much trashed the entire engine.

[BOB MARLIN]

If it's leaking around the base gasket(or head gasket or reed cage gasket)It will
also suck in air making it a lean condition.

[SuperYooper]

i'll rip it apart and try to figure it out. Just want to get a manual first so i kinda have an idea what im doing .

[88 Turbo Coupe]

i'll rip it apart and try to figure it out. Just want to get a manual first so i kinda have an idea what im doing .

I have an original manual from back in the day if interested. All pages there. Some grease stains. But definatly not a reprint. Pictures are clear and sharp.

[Deathrocket]

2 strokes are incredibly easy to rebuild the top end. it took me about 1 1/2 hours (minus the machine work) to do one on a blaster.. another trick i picked up was pull the exhaust and intake and look at the piston. if its scuffed up scratched yadda yadda its time for a top end rebuild.