Polaris grab bar on TRI-Z and milky transmission fluid

[Blown 331]

When I bought my TRI-Z the grab bar had been broken off. I read on here that a Polaris Predator grab bar will bolt on. I found them new on ebay for $20 so I bought one. It pretty much does not fit at all. I have it on there now but it bolts on with different holes and the holes in the grab bar have to be majorly elongated to line up. Saying a Predator grab bar fits a TRI-Z is like saying a 250R grab bar fits a TRI-Z, same thing.
And also I just drained my transmisison fluid and it is very milky. I was just going to change it but is this a water pump problem? I hear a lot about bad water pumps but I don't actually know what the failure is. What do I need to do to fix this problem?

[fabiodriven]

The water pump seal is probly your problem. It keeps the coolant from going through the water pump drive shaft into your engine, or in your case it doesn't.

[Hoosier_Daddy]

The water pump seal is probly your problem. It keeps the coolant from going through the water pump drive shaft into your engine, or in your case it doesn't.
Yep, fairly easy fix, too.

[Blown 331]

The water pump seal is probly your problem. It keeps the coolant from going through the water pump drive shaft into your engine, or in your case it doesn't.

:lol:
So just go to the Yamaha dealer and get a water pump seal? I'm picking up my fresh cylinder and piston tomorrow so I'd like to figure out what I need to get since I'm off work on Tuesday and would like to get this done.

Do I have to pull the hole clutch cover? Sure looks like it.

[mike from long island]

Got any pics of the triz with the Polaris grabbar???

[fabiodriven]

:lol:
So just go to the Yamaha dealer and get a water pump seal? I'm picking up my fresh cylinder and piston tomorrow so I'd like to figure out what I need to get since I'm off work on Tuesday and would like to get this done.

Do I have to pull the hole clutch cover? Sure looks like it.

I've never done one on a Tri-Z. Look into what gaskets you may need as well. Clutch cover, water pump, etc.

[Blown 331]

............................

[DeePa]

while youre at it, go ahead and buy a stainless impeller from sprock.

too many of us have lost top ends due to impeller failure.

the best way to install the seal is with 2 large fender washers and a nut and bolt. Use the fender washers on either side of the case/seal, and tighten the nut/bolt to pull it into the case. Make sure you start it straight and youll be set.

Dont mess around with oem tri-z impellers. I run one in both of mine but the impeller has been pinned to the shaft with a ss roll pin. I will be getting stainless impellers when i have the thought to do so.

Mike

[Blown 331]

while youre at it, go ahead and buy a stainless impeller from sprock.

too many of us have lost top ends due to impeller failure.

the best way to install the seal is with 2 large fender washers and a nut and bolt. Use the fender washers on either side of the case/seal, and tighten the nut/bolt to pull it into the case. Make sure you start it straight and youll be set.

Dont mess around with oem tri-z impellers. I run one in both of mine but the impeller has been pinned to the shaft with a ss roll pin. I will be getting stainless impellers when i have the thought to do so.

Mike


What do you mean by lost top ends? This one had the rings stick to the piston while riding? I was hoping to have this thing going in a few days but I will look into the sprock impellor.

[DeePa]

lost top ends meaning the impeller failed by the plastic head part coming loose from teh shaft, so the shaft spins but the impeller part doesnt, making it not pump water and led to overheating and the piston expanding and seizing up in the cylinder, leading to a lost top end...

[Blown 331]

lost top ends meaning the impeller failed by the plastic head part coming loose from teh shaft, so the shaft spins but the impeller part doesnt, making it not pump water and led to overheating and the piston expanding and seizing up in the cylinder, leading to a lost top end...

Oh, wow that sucks. That's not what happened to mine then, and my impeller is firmly attached to the shaft.

[DeePa]

it doesnt come off, see if it spins freely...with the motor off, spin it by hand and see what happens.

they work great until they decided to trailprotrailprotrailprotrailpro up

[Blown 331]

I can turn the impeller and it will actully spin the engine over. I'm going to order a sprock impeller, might not risk a new top end and the water pump has to come apart anyway so its no extra work. Then I should be good to go.

[Mosh]

When I bought my TRI-Z the grab bar had been broken off. I read on here that a Polaris Predator grab bar will bolt on. I found them new on ebay for $20 so I bought one. It pretty much does not fit at all. I have it on there now but it bolts on with different holes and the holes in the grab bar have to be majorly elongated to line up. Saying a Predator grab bar fits a TRI-Z is like saying a 250R grab bar fits a TRI-Z, same thing.
And also I just drained my transmisison fluid and it is very milky. I was just going to change it but is this a water pump problem? I hear a lot about bad water pumps but I don't actually know what the failure is. What do I need to do to fix this problem?

Looks like it bolts on pretty damn good to me. So what if you have to elongate the holes.
It opens up options for desret grab bars, 6 pack carriers ETC..
The only other Z grab bar available is plain jane.

When things are said they bolt on,that is usually the truth.Looks like it bolted on fine.

Hell I have bought aftermarket grab bars and skid plates that had to have the holes reposistioned for the machine they were designed for.

At least there is another option for the Z....Grab bar
You could have paid $30 for the SMS grab bar for the Z, or waited for a nice stocker that pulls near 40 bucks...

Bolting it to the rearward bolt holes actually protects the sub frame better.If it bends,it will only bend those 2 tabs vs. bending the whole downtube area..

[honda250sx]

I'm with Rob. Looks like it mounted pretty easy. You could have spend $50+ for a PRM-ATV grab bar. But if all thats needed is to elongate some holes thats nothing. Its not like you had to cut it, weld it, drill new holes.

Opens up alot of avenues in bumpers for us tri-z guys. Thanks for being a test dummy. Looks sharp.

[Groundworx]

When I bought my TRI-Z the grab bar had been broken off. I read on here that a Polaris Predator grab bar will bolt on. I found them new on ebay for $20 so I bought one. It pretty much does not fit at all. I have it on there now but it bolts on with different holes and the holes in the grab bar have to be majorly elongated to line up. Saying a Predator grab bar fits a TRI-Z is like saying a 250R grab bar fits a TRI-Z, same thing.


Don't you hate that. Someone swears up and down that something will cross over, you spend the time and money, then find out they were full of crap..

[Blown 331]

Looks like it bolts on pretty damn good to me. So what if you have to elongate the holes.
It opens up options for desret grab bars, 6 pack carriers ETC..
The only other Z grab bar available is plain jane.

When things are said they bolt on,that is usually the truth.Looks like it bolted on fine.

Hell I have bought aftermarket grab bars and skid plates that had to have the holes reposistioned for the machine they were designed for.

At least there is another option for the Z....Grab bar
You could have paid $30 for the SMS grab bar for the Z, or waited for a nice stocker that pulls near 40 bucks...

Bolting it to the rearward bolt holes actually protects the sub frame better.If it bends,it will only bend those 2 tabs vs. bending the whole downtube area..



Very good point. I love the PRM desert grab bars. I'm not gonna spend the money to put them on every bike I own but had I wanted one for the Z and knowing what I know now I would have bought one for a Predator (if they even make one). You are right it was not that bad to put on, just not what I expected. If I was told it will bolt on by elongating the holes then I would have expected it, or maybe I would not have bought it at all, not really sure.
So I guess this is helpful for anyone else wanting more grab bar options, you know exactly what to do now and there's the pics for proof, no surprises and I agree it does look damn good on there. That one was $20 on ebay, brand new. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280291491015&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT&viewitem=

[Tri-Z 250]

Ok I'll take the heat for this one:rolleyes: ...I didn't tell you that the holes needed to be adjusted slightly. It was my bad and I did miss inform you as too DIRECT BOLT ON quailty...Looks good by the way for 20+shipping and some red neckfab work.:naughty:

[Blown 331]

lol. It's all good man. I don't even think it was one of your posts that I read it would fit. It's on there, it works and it does look good. Just when I went to put it on I was like, what the hell is this. lol.

[Blown 331]

while youre at it, go ahead and buy a stainless impeller from sprock.

I run one in both of mine but the impeller has been pinned to the shaft with a ss roll pin. I will be getting stainless impellers when i have the thought to do so.

Mike

I am not sure the Sprock impellers are avail, I haven't found any evidence of anyone owning one.
What has to be done to pin the impeller to the shaft? Any instructions on this?
Mine is fine the way it is and I have feeling I'll be running the stock one as is.


EDIT. I like this. Simple and effective, thanks Tim SR.

http://www.3wheelerworldforums.com/showpost.php?p=377502&postcount=11

[Blown 331]

Another question. When you pull the clutch over you can see the end of the crank and it has a gear on it. The water pump runs on the front of the gear and the clutch basket runs on the rear of the gear. Well there is a machined area right above the crank that looks like some type of shaft is missing. There is a corrosponding area in the clutch cover. Hopefully that makes sense but am I missing something?

[Mosh]

You will get a few years out of a new, stock impellar.
Like Tim said, pin them even when they are new.

The machined hole in the case was the provision for the powervalve set-up.
Yamaha used the same cases from 83-86 for the Z, and the YZ 250 which was powervalved.
So they had the machined powervalve boss in the Z cases as well.
Search Derrick Adams powervalve Z thread, and you will see why it is there.
Nothing goes there on a Z unless you powervalve it.