Tri-Zinger build

[dcreel]

We bought 2 84 Tri-Zingers about 3 weeks ago. Neither run. The yellow bike has a locked up motor. It was full of water and the clutch bell is rusty. The frame and body is good though missing the front fender numberplate. The electronics are cut off, and it doesn't have the start switch, throttle.

The blue 84 is all there but when you pull the rope there is a weird slap noise coming from the cylinder. Pulled the cylinder and the connecting rod bearing connected to the crank is bad. Transmission is good. Electronics are there. The bad is that the forks are bent pretty bad. Going to put the yellow forks on this nicer frame.

Wife just ran out this morning with no sleep to get our third. This one is red and the best shape of them all. It's still in the back of the Fit.

My questions are, has anyone removed the injection from the motor as I plan to do. I need to design, or have made a plug with an o ring to cover the hole in the engine case. By removing the injection I might even gain a little power by removing the drag on the engine.

Has anyone ever ported the aluminum intake? Not crazy hogged out, but removing the casting marks etc.

I need wheel spacers made as well. 2 inches each side for a 4 inch wider rear. I need them made out of aluminum. I figured I would trace the end of the axle on cardboard and use it as a template. Anyone know where to get aluminum wheels for the Tri-Zinger?

Another crazy idea I had would be to put a BW80 front end on one, to make it look a little more like a 250R. With a skinnier and a little taller tire, I would also gain a front brake. If the BW80 front end has one.

I plan on some polishing, some chroming, maybe some painting. I want to make these Tri-Zingers look great. These will of course be riders, but sharp looking riders.

Let me know if you have heard of any Tri-Zinger hop ups..

The new one.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w182/dcreel/100_2102.jpg
Welded on folding pegs. Yay!!
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w182/dcreel/100_2103.jpg
Bent forks on the blue one
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w182/dcreel/100_2105.jpg
Hole for the oil injection pump, for the plug I need to build.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w182/dcreel/100_2106.jpg
Injection pump
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w182/dcreel/100_2108.jpg
Engines on the bench
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w182/dcreel/100_2109.jpg
All lined up
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w182/dcreel/100_2111.jpg
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w182/dcreel/100_2113.jpg

[Vealmonkey]

The easiest mod for the oil injection pump is to cut the shaft in two and remove all the guts from the body and then just fill the void with jb weld being careful not getting any jb weld on the outside of the body and just bolting it back in place after it sets up. Also, you need to source a throttle cable from a small 4 stroke bike to replace the yt throttle cable and that junction box where the cables split. As for the intake, it's best to just replace the intake with larger bent conduit and mig weld in place and make a custom mount for the end so you can use a larger carb. Then you have to modify the reed cage so it can take some pw80 reeds. The bakelite type material is available and if you are careful and patient you can fit the pw80 reeds. Get yourself a set of the heavier springs so the centrifugal clutch engages later at higher rpms'. I had seen pictures of a bw80 front end on a yt60 before. It makes the front end sit a little high, but it's a lot better suspension than the yt60 front end. You can change the gear set in the diff if you can find one of the old yamaha mopeds so you can get better gearing. That takes some work though and a good friend with a 20 ton press and some patience but it will wake the trike up really nice especially if you use the dg nationals pipe. At one time there were also big bore and stroker kits for the yt60, but those are super duper rare. Good luck and keep us informed on your progress.