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honda250sx
02-01-2009, 12:07 AM
I hear alot of guys talking plugs lately. It seems some guys even go as far as to "recommend" a different plug. That can be quite dangerous for your engine. Lets take a look at what spark plugs are all about.

Numbers and Letters:
Manufacturers work hard to select the right spark plug for each engine application. Plugs have significant impact on engine performance and fuel economy, and using the wrong one can cause poor running quality or engine damage. Each of the digits on a spark plug dictates its specifications or characteristics. A common spark plug is B8ES. The "B" designates 14mm thread x1.25 pitch, 20.8mm hex. The "8" is the heat range. The "E" is thread reach of 19mm. The "S" designates a super copper core center electrode. A spark plug can only cover a certain operating tempature range. Heat ranges vary by about 75 degrees. When selecting the correct plug for an engine, manufacturers choose one that works safely at the hottest temperature it could face under high RPM and heavy load. The plug must withstand the maximum temperature and be resistant to fouling at cold startup and idle.

Hot and Cold:
The length of the center electrode and insulator nose dictates whether a spark plug is a "hot" or "cold" burning plug. For example, a hot plug will have a longer insulator nose and a short center electrode. The long insulator nose transfers heat more slowly to the shell of the spark plug and then to the cylinder head. Cold plugs have short insulator and a long center electrode. Electrodes with copper also dissipate heat quicker than standard steel electrodes. As a rule of thumb, the hotter an engine runs, the colder the spark plug should be. Hot engines include modified or high performance engines! A spark plug starts to burn off fouling deposits at about 800 degrees farenheit. If too many deposits accumulate on the ceramic core, electricity from the ignition system will follow the path of least resistance into the core and ground to the inside of the shell rather than arc across the gap. Short ground electrodes take longer to reach the deposit burn off temperature, which makes them prone to fouling, but they are less likely to break as result of cylinder head vibration. Fouling caused by a rich fuel mixture CANNOT BE FIXED WITH A HOTTER PLUG! Prevent this problem with CORRECT JETTING.

Can You use a different plug than specified?
When possible ALWAYS use the spark plug that the manufacturer specs for your machine. There are cases when a different plug can work in a pinch to get you home. If your recreational vehicle calls for a B9ES for example, it's okay to use a different heat range plug such as a B8ES as a temporary fix. But because this plug is hotter than your stock plug, take it easy to avoid pre-ignition. In cases where special materials such as copper, gold, and platinum are used to dissipate heat more quickly or prolong life, a plug variance is acceptable for a short time. Some spark plug characteristics cannot be used as a temporary replacement. A reach that is too long could cause a collision between the bottom of the plug and the top of the piston at top dead center, which may cause damage. Plugs that have the wrong threads won't thread into the head and non-resistor plugs shouldn't be used in an application that calls for a resistor plug, otherwise the ignition system might suffer damage. Charts from spark plug manufacturers are a good reference to help determine which plugs can be used in a pinch. Cross-references between spark plug brands are available from the spark plug makers and are a good way to find replacements.

:welcome:

Saul
02-01-2009, 12:24 AM
some good info right there! Do you mind if I use this in our tech section over at airfoolers.com?

honda250sx
02-01-2009, 12:27 AM
Please send gold bullion prior to using!

The Goat
02-01-2009, 12:27 AM
good writeup...

are there any performance possibilities with new hotter plugs?

honda250sx
02-01-2009, 12:49 AM
Well afther that some are wondering whats an insulator, shell, reach, etc...Listen up...


Parts of the PLUG...

Terminal:
The terminal is located at the top of the plug, and is either a solid or screw-on type. The spark plug cap attaches here and they should be replaced every few years to ensure a secure connection to the terminal.

Insulator:
This is the white portion of the plug and is made of non-conductive ceramic, which insulates the grounded components of the plug from the energized parts.

Resistor:
Also called a suppression device, the resistor is located in-line between the terminal and center electrode. The resistor is required by law and it prevents static interferenc on radios and tv's. Most new ignition systems require resistor plugs, otherwise they might suffer damage.

Shell:
This is the steel body of the plug. It has a hex portion where a wrench is used to install or remove the plug from the engine. Further down the shell are the threads, which thread into the cylinder.

Reach:
The length of the threads is called the REACH, and the overall length of the reach is important. If it is too long, it could cause the piston to contact the bottom of the plug when it reaches top dead center of the engines stroke. A reach that is too short won't correctly ignite fuel charge adn will cause poor performance.

Ground Electrode:
This part is welded to the bottom of the shell and, in most cases, is bent at a right angle to extend over the center electrode. The distance between the two electrodes is the gap and it can be adjusted on most plugs to meet the engines specifications. The distance of the gap affects how easily the spark arcs across the two electrodes. This gap is where the spark is supplied. Some new plug designs have a short electrode, which is welded at an angle to the base of the threads. A short ground electrode combats heat build up through faster dissipation. This change was driven as a result of the leaner fuel delivery systems on newer fuel injection recreational vehicles.

Center Electrode:
This protrudes from the white insulator nose. The diameter of the center electrode can also affect performace. A small electrode makes it easier for the spark to jump to the gap between the center electrode and ground electrode. Precious metals such as platinum or iridium used here can extend the life of the spark plug by slowing gap growth.

honda250sx
02-01-2009, 12:52 AM
Goat it all depends on how HOT you run. Not so much performance possibilities but... better performance thru use of proper plug.

Shawn72
02-01-2009, 10:06 AM
What about the splitfire plugs. Any advantages?

Yamahondaman
02-01-2009, 05:13 PM
Split Fires run too hot... Also a Mechanic friend of mine told me that only one side of the "Y" spark's ... it doesn't do like the pic on the box

Billy Golightly
02-01-2009, 05:19 PM
http://3wheelerworldforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63995&stc=1&d=1209435037 I made this image a while back, and its pretty much how I think and what I jet by. Interested in what you think of that.

I've also in my experience, on recommendation from Ronnie ran one or even two steps colder plugs in a lot of machines with a lot of success. As you've mentioned a colder or hotter plug shouldn't be used as a band aid for jetting. But I've found its easier for me to dial things in with cooler plugs then it is with 8s.

honda250sx
02-02-2009, 12:00 AM
BG thats fairly accurate. You have a good understanding indeed. You get an A+. I do not recommend running outside of the manufacturers suggested plug. HOWEVER. On a modified engine. Everything is out the window so to speak when it comes to plug choice. Depending on HOW HOT you run, determines the plug in which you need to run.