200X noisy top end....

[BigRed_Ryno]

I've just put a 200X engine into my '85 200X (previously autoX) but the top end on it seems somewhat noisy. I've tensioned the cam chain, but didnt make any difference. Is it much to worry about? coz i cant see it getting any better on its own.....

[AutoXer]

did you adjust the valves as well?

[honda_atc200es]

adjust the valves, you probably have excessive clearance

[Shftatsix]

valves? cam chain tensioner itself? oil pump? muffler bearings? replace the cam chain?

[oscarmayer]

i have 2 tghat are doing that. looks to be worn gides and tensioneer and chain. will have to do a basic top end to fix. cause to replace the guide and tensionner you gotta pull the head so may as well pull the jug and repacle those gaskets, then may as well do a re-ring to bore/hone if needed cause your already there.

[Dirtcrasher]

That noise is almost ALWAYS confused with valve noise.

I'll bet money on the chain and tensioner, replace all 3.

DK has a Parts unlimited kit that works well with a DID chain.

It made a huge difference on my 85 200X.

[BigRed_Ryno]

Ok, cheers for the advise guys. My 200S was similar, when i originally re-built the top end etc it was fine, but over the last year its got progressivly noisier :(
Think ill give the 200X a full top end re-build then.......
Dont need much of an excuse to take things apart :D

[oscarmayer]

good luck man, and msot of all, take your time and HAVE FUN! remember this is a hobby for fun. enjoy it. if sometihng is fighting walk away and come back later and retry it. not worth getting mad over something fun.

[BigRed_Ryno]

Cheers B) Its probably absolutely fine, its just it seems to be as much as a hobby fixing things as it does using them B) If its 'not quite right' i want to know why, and to totally enjoy using them, i need to know its running perfectly :D

[oscarmayer]

yea me too! i totally understand!!!

[greenhuman]

Manually tighten the cam chain to see if that is the problem before you go to expense. Take out the 6mm dust cap bolt from the cam chain adjuster and loosen the 14mm chain adjuster bolt. (do this at TDC) get a bicycle spoke and put the threaded end down the tensioner bolt where you took out the 6mm bolt. Screw the spoke into the tensioner itself and pull it up tightly. Tighten the 14mm tensioner bolt and bull out the spoke and replace the 6mm bolt and dust cap. This gives you much more cam chain adjustment than just relying on the spring to tighten the chain. If it is still noisy, see if the spark advancer is dry. This can cause rattlig noises as well. Put some grease in the mechanism to quiten it down.

[rebel33382]

On my 200ES, when I tighten down hard on the 14mm nut it gets louder, if I back off maybe a 1/2 round, it quiets down. What gives?

[BigRed_Ryno]

i'll give that a try. Just gotta find an old spoke to use. Damn! i knew i shouldn't have given that old bicycle to my neighbour last week!! its only been sittin in the garden for the last year

[BigRed_Ryno]

Well i took it out yesterday (first time with this engine) and its smokes like a train. Runs sweet, just smokes plenty, so ill be having the top end off in the next few weeks and give it the full treatment (rings etc....) but would it be worth splashing out an gettin an XR200 piston? And how would i check the oil pump is operating fully?

[AutoXer]

8 SKU: 15331-921-003
ROTOR, OIL PUMP (INNER) (Honda Code 0422329) (YAMADA) (USE ONLY WITH ORIGINAL OIL PUMP ASSY. P/N 15100-437-672.) 1 $15.43 Add to Cart
9 SKU: 15332-921-003
ROTOR, OIL PUMP (OUTER) (Honda Code 0376723) (YAMADA) (USE ONLY WITH ORIGINAL OIL PUMP ASSY. P/N 15100-437-672.) 1 $24.46 Add to Cart
You can replace the rotor for $39.89 or you can measure/ inspect the rotor there are specks in the manual
As for the piston I am going wiseco 10.25:1

[BigRed_Ryno]

I tore into the engine the other nite, and and it all looks 'ok' there's no play on the cam, which for some reason i was worried about, the bow shaped tensioner rail thingy (technical term) seems 'ok' not excessively worn, the chain doesn't seem to be stretched. I guess i'll replace that anyway. I'm trying to keep the costs down, but trying to avoid making 'false economy' if you get what i mean. how do i know if the tensioner is past it? the chain didnt seem very tight before i took it apart, so for whatever reason it isnt tightening up enough. could it be the spring thats on the bottom of the tensioner rail? I havent taken the flywheel off yet so i cant see yet. Sorry for all the questions, I've got an oem manual on its way, so hopefully that'll help. Cheers Guys :D

[Erics350x]

Theres no springs on the tensioner rails. How does the cam and bushing look? It it getting oil up there? Alot of times the rail wears out at the bottom, pull the flywheel and post back.

[oscarmayer]

when you took the head valve cover/rocker arm cover off, did you notice a little black rubber tear shaped peice stuck in a hole on the head? if it's not there then that coudl be the issue. that hole has to be plugged for it to properly provide oil pressure to the top end.

[fabiodriven]

I was told that the 200X's were known for eating the surface the cam rides on in the head if not properly maintained. Mine did that and the valves got really loud. I would adjust them and they'd do it again. Make sure your cam doesn't have excessive play.

[BigRed_Ryno]

The cam doesn't have excessive play, that seems good. And yes the little rubber plug was in the head. I havent pulled the flywheel yet, seems to need a much smaller puller than the 200S etc... I've got to give the head a little skim as there was a light score in the surface around the headgasket. I guess this is ok to do?

[Dirtcrasher]

Sure, it'll bump up the compression just a tad... There is a bit of clearance in those heads so I wouldn't sweat a few thousandths shaved off.

Again though, I suggest changing the T chain and BOTH guides no matter what they look like. I'm sure they are original and it made my 85 200X motor SOOOOOO much quieter.