ok guys i have been tuning my T3 for awile now and thought i had it down pat. well i guess not, i was out riging sat and when i was in the sand in 5th gear between 3/4 and WOT i could hear it pinging. so my question is how do i do a proper plug chop to check the main jet? i know to warm the bike up and run through all the gears at WOT, then plull the clutch in and kill the trike at the same time once it tops out. do i need to throw a fresh plug in rite before the test? the few times i have done a plug chop with a fresh plug the plug looks as if it was never used. so im not sure if its that lean or if im not looking for the rite things. any help would be great thanks.
i was talking to my local engine guy and he said i should try some 100 octane race gas because the high compresion with all the top end work i had done to it could be causeing pre detonation with the 91 pump gas in my area, before anymore jet changes.
Race fuel is what i would try. I know that low octane will cause them to ping but it usually does it when you let off the throttle and causes a mild piston slap.
Mine was doing it under throtle, and the more i was over 3/4 throtle the worse it was. It happened twice to me so i backed off, so i went easy on it for the rest of the ride. so now im tryin to figure out the problem. my next ride i will try the race gas and then go from there.
It is not overheating is it by chance? Did you CC the head and do a static compression check? What was the squish on the head, to much will cause detonation issues aka pinging in some cases. ALL THESE things must equal a certain amount to be correct. Port timing, etc as well if affected by changes can cause a pinging issue.
its getting too hot in the combustion chamber. it is running too lean. try raising the needle on the carb. and yes, use higher octane fuel. i had the same issue. now I run a 38 mm mikuni flat slide. also, you have to account foe weather, elevation and temperature. hotter makes it run rich, colder makes it run lean.
It has been runing a little warm, but after 2 hours of steady riding you can hold your hand on the motor after about 3 or 4 min so not scortching hot. as far as the head no i didnt CC it or anything. i shiped the top end to Kustom-Kraft for their big bore kit and head work. once the motor was reassembled by my local kawi shop, they did a compression test and reported it at 180 PSI. realy dont know a whole lot about porting or anything so there is alot to learn here for me, but dont want to learn the hard way and kill my motor. i just bought a house so it will be awile before i get to do any riding to do more testing, but hoping i can get around to it soon.
i have been looking for a flat slide but none of the newer ones fit my OEM intake boot. do i need to look for somthing special or did you modify you intake to fit the 38mm flat slide.
i run a 38 air stryker on my big bore and ran it on my small 250 as well. never had aissue with the intake. Going to buy a 39 here real soon for the bigbore. i wld run a 39 on your bigbore with race fuel because your compresion is pretty high. Im putting a new topend on my small motor today and switching the small for the big. hope she has some ponys.
cfgreenmonster3 - 22 Hours Ago i have been looking for a flat slide but none of the newer ones fit my OEM intake boot. do i need to look for somthing special or did you modify you intake to fit the 38mm flat slide If your intake is in very good to better shape I will trade you one of my reproduction intake boots for it. You pay your shipping to me, I pay shipping to you. I need to make a new mold for the 84/85 intake boots and need a nice to very nice O.E.M. intake boot to use as a pattern, to make the new mold. My intakes boots I reproduce can accept a much larger then stock (up to 42-44mm) with out the use of a shoe horn and KY jelly, but sized for stock Tecate carbs (32-34mm). PM me if interested for my e-mail address to send me pics of your stock boot.
