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Thread: Trimoto 175 update - idling high and leaking gas

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Jerseyville, IL
    --
    29
    Quote Originally Posted by old-yellow View Post
    I would just buy a new set of bars instead of welding up the old ones.
    I like welding, so I won't be buying new bars. It's not a big deal to do it myself, and I'm broke so I don't usually spend money on things unless I absolutely need it. This thing is just for riding trails, not for show or racing. As long as it's functional, it works for me! Plus, I need to powdercoat some more anyway.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Jerseyville, IL
    --
    29
    Had the pull rope break again today! I also found out that some string I bought from the store is the exact same stuff my pull rope was made out of, but way cheaper. I just used some of this string to see how long it will last. Anyone have any recommendations on good pull rope? The stuff I bought was just a kit for a lawnmower. There was a Briggs and Stratton brand pullrope too, but it looked just like the string I am using now.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Brampton, ontario
    --
    686
    the front tire on my yammy 225 YTM is a trail pro.. its pretty worn out.. tecate250 said to keep my mouth closed about it :P but its to rare to see. its got big weather cracks. and the center of the shaped threads are going flat.
    Looking for some smaller style tires like the r's have, just 2 back tires. pm please.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Jerseyville, IL
    --
    29
    I think one of my trail pros on the back are warped from sitting flat for so long. Both tires seem to have the same amount of pressure, but one swells up a lot more than the other! They actually haven't been too bad on the trails, but it hasn't been muddy so it's hard to tell.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Coon Rapids, MN
    --
    956
    Dennis Kirk has this recoil cable for Trimotos and all Honda ATC models
    http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produc...1&mmy=#fitment
    1982 Yamaha YT125 tri-moto - Boyesen power reeds, YT175 front suspension, Headlight guard.
    1982 Yamaha YT175 tri-moto - Running but ugly
    1984 Yamaha YT 60 tri-zinger - Boyesen power reeds



    My feedback.
    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ght=old-yellow
    My album
    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/album.php?albumid=98

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Jerseyville, IL
    --
    29
    Quote Originally Posted by old-yellow View Post
    Dennis Kirk has this recoil cable for Trimotos and all Honda ATC models
    http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produc...1&mmy=#fitment
    Interesting, but I don't quite understand how it fits the pull rope assembly. I wouldn't think it would be able to fit through the holes in the handle and the pulley mechanism with ends like that. Maybe I'm wrong?

    Has anyone messed with the rear disc brake on these Yamahas? Mine does absolutely nothing when you squeeze the handle or press the brake lever. That's next on my list of things to fix.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Coon Rapids, MN
    --
    956
    On the back of the the brake caliper there is a long bolt and nut, loosen the nut and turn in the bolt, but don't tighten it to much or the brakes will drag, I like to lift my three wheeler off the ground so I can spin the axle to see if the brakes are dragging.
    1982 Yamaha YT125 tri-moto - Boyesen power reeds, YT175 front suspension, Headlight guard.
    1982 Yamaha YT175 tri-moto - Running but ugly
    1984 Yamaha YT 60 tri-zinger - Boyesen power reeds



    My feedback.
    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ght=old-yellow
    My album
    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/album.php?albumid=98

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    ohio
    --
    35

    1983 tri moto ty175

    so i had to tear the whole motor down, gay ass gasket maker leaking trans oil out the exshaust i think!? i need a clutch basket its tore up on the outside but not the inside can i still use if i clean it up ?the marks r from the cir clip popping off.......bye the way i was wondering why clutch was hooked up to oil pump than after hours of suffing found out it was a auto cultch!!!!!!!!dumb ass lol any ways i did away with oil pump......why do yuor throtel cabel split off to two cabels?is it because they go to the oil pump ?was there a stock race tri moto because ive seen a few that look excatly like mine but not yours....exshaust, tires,boost canister. any body can help me figure what i have cc wise iam preety sure it 175

  9. #24
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Pennsylvania
    --
    37

    Wink

    Ok had the same problem with my 1984 250r ATC. Ended up being the adjustment of the handlebar was pulling the cable way to much. My bike revved so high i thought the engine was going to blow. Most people don't know you can adjust at the handlebars. One more thing, If your missing your airbox lid this can mess with the idle. Too much air can cause idling problems. More then likely you need to adjust the throttle at the handlebars.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Coon Rapids, MN
    --
    956
    Quote Originally Posted by whodeycincy View Post
    so i had to tear the whole motor down, gay ass gasket maker leaking trans oil out the exshaust i think!? i need a clutch basket its tore up on the outside but not the inside can i still use if i clean it up ?the marks r from the cir clip popping off.......bye the way i was wondering why clutch was hooked up to oil pump than after hours of suffing found out it was a auto cultch!!!!!!!!dumb ass lol any ways i did away with oil pump......why do yuor throtel cabel split off to two cabels?is it because they go to the oil pump ?was there a stock race tri moto because ive seen a few that look excatly like mine but not yours....exshaust, tires,boost canister. any body can help me figure what i have cc wise iam preety sure it 175
    I think you meant to post this in the other thread. http://www.3wheelerworldforums.com/s...t=99721&page=2
    Look on the left side of the cylinder by the back bolt it will tell you how many cc the motor is, There was never a stock race trimoto someone bought all those performance parts and put them on and as for the cable it splits so it can control how much oil is injected into the engine.
    __________________
    1982 Yamaha YT125 tri-moto - Boyesen power reeds, YT175 front suspension, Headlight guard.
    1982 Yamaha YT175 tri-moto - Running but ugly
    1984 Yamaha YT 60 tri-zinger - Boyesen power reeds



    My feedback.
    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ght=old-yellow
    My album
    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/album.php?albumid=98

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Jerseyville, IL
    --
    29
    Quote Originally Posted by xbenzx View Post
    Ok had the same problem with my 1984 250r ATC. Ended up being the adjustment of the handlebar was pulling the cable way to much. My bike revved so high i thought the engine was going to blow. Most people don't know you can adjust at the handlebars. One more thing, If your missing your airbox lid this can mess with the idle. Too much air can cause idling problems. More then likely you need to adjust the throttle at the handlebars.
    Thanks, but I've already got the issue fixed. I mentioned in an earlier post that my throttle cable was junk and coming apart inside the throttle housing. Good point about the handlebars though!

    Also, i think I've found the oil leak. The output shaft seal is leaking very bad and dripping constantly. It drips onto the shifter seal, so it sort of makes it look like the shifter seal is leaking too, which it may or may not. I'm going to order both seals and replace them, as I don't like my trikes leaking oil!

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Jerseyville, IL
    --
    29
    Fixed the oil leak today. It was leaking out of the output shaft seal fairly quickly, creating a mess wherever I parked it. I'm guessing what happened is someone went to replace the seal and used the wrong one, and also punctured it at some point. The seal was not nearly as thick as the old one, and had a puncture all the way through it.



    New seal on the left, old on the right



    No more leaks! I also have a seal for the shifter shaft, but I don't think it's leaking. If it ever does, at least I'm prepared!

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Jerseyville, IL
    --
    29
    Quote Originally Posted by old-yellow View Post
    On the back of the the brake caliper there is a long bolt and nut, loosen the nut and turn in the bolt, but don't tighten it to much or the brakes will drag, I like to lift my three wheeler off the ground so I can spin the axle to see if the brakes are dragging.
    I also tried messing with the rear brake today, but it isn't working any better. The pads look like there are a lot of life left on them. I tightened the bolt you mentioned, but it just barely works. When the rear is in the air, it will stop the axle, but when you are driving it, the rear brake is useless. I'm guessing it's a problem with either the cables or where the arm pivots. The front brakes look brand new to my amazement, and work great, so at least I have some braking power.

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