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Thread: 350x Fork Question

  1. #1
    thebutelr's Avatar
    thebutelr is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
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    350x Fork Question

    I have a one of my forks leaking fluid pretty bad and I was wondering if there were any parts that I would need to replace besides the seals? Do you think I should rebuild the other fork even though it isn't leaking right now? Also I have read that I will need a fork seal driver, are there any on denniskirk or rockymountainatv that I can buy or am I going to have to make one myself??

  2. #2
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    if you do one seal, do the other.about the driver i dont know if it can be done without one.
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  3. #3
    eyecekold1's Avatar
    eyecekold1 is offline Check my feedback before buying from me First time rider
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    I have used big sockets to drive seals and bearings in, but you can't go wrong with the right tools. Something else you will want is a seal puller those are worth their weight in gold (in my opinion) you can get one for pretty cheap at harbor freight. Good luck. I agree if you do one do them both.
    http://www.rockymountainatv.com/sear...rd=SEAL+DRIVER
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  4. #4
    thebutelr's Avatar
    thebutelr is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
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    Awesome thanks for the replies! Should I go with the Tusk brand seal driver from rockymountainatv? It seems to be the only adjustable one on there. I have done some reading around on other fork rebuild topics and I've seen that the bushings for the forks have to be changed along with the seals, is this true?

  5. #5
    thebutelr's Avatar
    thebutelr is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
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    Never mind on the Tusk brand adjustable one, it uses plastic parts on the end that drives the seal into the fork and some people have complained of it breaking off inside the seal. Does anyone know if the other ones off of Rockymountainatv.com will work for the 350x forks?

  6. #6
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    I drive in all my fork seals with PVC.

    If it's too big, I slice it down the sides and hold it together with duct tape.

    You don't have to fork seals in and they have to be done with the tubes in place of the lower leg. You simply use your 4" long PVC tool and slide the seal in (so to speak). Don't forget the washer that goes in 1st......

    When I slide the seal over the tube, I put a baggie or Saran wrap over it to protect the seal and I grease it and the place it eventually sits .

    The dust seal pops in with your fingers.

    The bushings show when there bad as the teflon or grey coating is worn, if it's worn severely, then the upper tube is most likely bent.

    The damper rod has a plastic bushing and I try to replace those too, very cheap part and very brittle...............
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