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Thread: 110 Ignition Timing

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Missouri
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    87

    110 Ignition Timing

    I've been having some trouble getting my 110 running after I tore it down last week. I pulled the head, lapped and seated the valves, checked over everything. Prior to this the intake valve leaked so bad that anything I sprayed down the carb it would blow right back out. Had hardly any compression. Now the compression feels much better but my tester doesn't fit the plug hole.

    I put it all back together using the same gaskets hoping it would run before I put any more money into it. I followed the procedure in the manual for timing it and from what I can tell it is correct. Everything went fine until I got to the pesky points ignition.

    When I first got the trike it had no spark so I filed the points and it had and still has good spark. I just can't figure out the ignition timing. In the manual it says to line up the F on the flywheel with the notch on the alternator coil, and turn the points plate until the points just start to open. I've been trying to figure this out without any success. All I've ever been able to do is get it to pop out of the carb or exhaust, once I had it kicking back so I retarded the timing and it still didn't help. I did have the advaner "barrel" that goes on after the advancer base on backwards but I flipped it around without any luck.

    Would worn spark advanver springs cause the ignition timing to mess up? The whole advancer assembly was pretty rusty but everything is free now. I can move the weights easily. How about a plugged exhaust pipe?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    South Florida
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    6,798
    I just explained this in another thread yesterday so here it is again .


    Timing is a pain in the butt sometimes so this is how I do it (very simple) . Remove the flywheel bolt , Point the flywheel key directly centered at the head and this makes the piston @ TDC , make sure the cam lobes are both pointing toward the block or it will be 180 out . make the cam sprocket dot point the same direction as the flywheel key toward the top head cap centered . Align the cam sprocket up with the cam and bolt it up and your done . Flywheel key and cam dot both pointing away from the block and its good to go and cant be off .
    78 atc 90/180cc Dickson Full Suspension
    76 ATC90/180cc Nicholson
    77 atc 90 Dickson Full Suspension
    84 KLT 110/123cc Powroll Racer from 80s
    87 atc 125m stock
    84 atc 200x Curtis Sparks
    84 atc 200x Powroll My race bike from 80's
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Missouri
    --
    87
    Quote Originally Posted by shortline10 View Post
    I just explained this in another thread yesterday so here it is again .


    Timing is a pain in the butt sometimes so this is how I do it (very simple) . Remove the flywheel bolt , Point the flywheel key directly centered at the head and this makes the piston @ TDC , make sure the cam lobes are both pointing toward the block or it will be 180 out . make the cam sprocket dot point the same direction as the flywheel key toward the top head cap centered . Align the cam sprocket up with the cam and bolt it up and your done . Flywheel key and cam dot both pointing away from the block and its good to go and cant be off .
    I'm pretty sure I got that process nailed. Both valves open when they should and it has good compression. I'm having trouble getting the points aligned properly so they spark at the right time.

    Would it run even poorly if the ignition timing was a little off or does it have to be dead on to run?
    1999 Kawasaki Bayou 220
    1980 Honda ATC110 (Work in Progress)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    South Florida
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    6,798
    Sometimes after a rebuild its hard to get them going . I always make a mark on the points plate so it will at least be close again . Make sure you have a new plug because its the simple things usually that are the problem .

    Back in the day when we would do a rebuild on a race motor with very high compresion and tight tolerances we had to push start them to get them going on the first fire up .
    78 atc 90/180cc Dickson Full Suspension
    76 ATC90/180cc Nicholson
    77 atc 90 Dickson Full Suspension
    84 KLT 110/123cc Powroll Racer from 80s
    87 atc 125m stock
    84 atc 200x Curtis Sparks
    84 atc 200x Powroll My race bike from 80's
    83 atc70/108cc Powroll blue Xmas Special
    81 atc185s HP-ATC full suspension

    Performance Shop is Open PM me for Service

    My Feedback http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ck+shortline10

  5. #5
    Pafrig's Avatar
    Pafrig is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Sep 2009
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    ALASKA
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    278
    check that you're spark isnt 180 off. Put your finger over the plug hole, and pull it over and look at the spark plug. you should get a spark pretty darn close to when you're finger gets blown off. the esasy way for the things to get 180 out is if you take the points cam off the advandcer and put it back on wrong.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Orange County California
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    726
    good stuff right there
    1986 ATC250r
    1984 ATC70



  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Missouri
    --
    87
    I had some success today.

    Apparently when I fipped the came lobe over it was right before I messed with it. I flipped it around today, gapped the points, and took off the exhaust.

    I sprayed some carburetor cleaning in the carb and pulled, it sputtered a couple times and ripped the cord out of my hands. I retarded the timing a bit and it started and ran for a couple of seconds. I can't do anything else until I get some oil and gas. I also have to rinse out the tank and get some fuel line.
    1999 Kawasaki Bayou 220
    1980 Honda ATC110 (Work in Progress)

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