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Thread: 200X rear brake pedal reapir: the broke azz impatient way

  1. #1
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    200X rear brake pedal reapir: the broke azz impatient way

    Well since I have no spare parts to send to Dirtcrasher (for the much more professional repair) and I am too impatient to send out my parts and wait to ride. I came up with this cheap and really effective rear brake pedal repair.

    Simply took a 1 1/2 in piece of PVC, the pipe with the little lip on one end that goes just below the sink. Slotted it so it could open up. Cut it to fit inside the brake pedal and not stick out at all. Dremelled (with sanding disk) the inside to get it thin enough to function as a bushing. I used the side of the PVC with the lip so the pedal isn't pressed directly against the engine. I only greased the outside of the PVC and the inside of the pedal so it won't spin on the kicker shaft, and wear the soft aluminum any more before I can have it machine properly. Used the angle grinder to make a washer that fit to hold the kick stater against the pedal snug.

    It works awesome. The 1 1/2" PVC is real close in size.

  2. #2
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    ^ Just remember, these are your brakes......

    I'm not trying to "sell" my repair.

    I am trying to find small jobs that can be shipped quick, cheap and resolve the problem.

    Yours, must be severely worn, I got in a set from ??? (forgot his board name) and they are worn, but only to the extent that a bushing will fix it.

    It is looking like to fix it and use a replaceable bronze bearing, I will have to rework the pedal to. I can't hold that pedal on a lathe chuck or faceplate.

    Anyhow, I'll keep you guys informed as I go about this and I am trying to do it as cost effective as possible.

    EDIT - The stock pedal has some sorty of insert?? I'm finding pieces of something in there that look to be intentionally placed there............ Like a teflon insert??
    All our government does is distract us while they steal from us, misspend our tax $ and ruin our country

  3. #3
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    I know you're not trying to sell your repair, I think its awesome you come up with great ways to fix stuff that is no longer made. I mean once I have the time and money I'll be sending my parts, but I just want to ride around over X-mas break. And it works surprisingly good for not a penny, so I thought I would share it. Huge improvement over what I had. And I know what I'm doing, there's no way it would fail and I would lose my brakes. Only thing that can happen is the PVC can wear and I will have the same play I had before I did this cheap repair.

  4. #4
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    another fix would be to simply turn a new pedal pivot and weld it onto the pedal. Then turn the case pivot point to match.
    80s......185 atc, Yamaha tri-moto 200, 85 200x with tons of work
    90s......89 Suzuki quad racer 250 (raced 250 A class for 6 years, late 90s.. custom framed 250x with long travel shocks and a built 350x motor.... built Honda 110
    00s...... chomeoly framed 350 RX with all the goodies (thanks to my bro)
    2012.....Replaced the 350x motor for a 444cc YZ426
    WWW.HREATV.COM

  5. #5
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    ^ I hear ya.... Been looking at it for a bit now, but this is a fairly good one. I imagine most of them will be pretty sloppy.

    Problem is that you can only turn down the case pivot so much, not allot of meat there or the seal is compromised for the kickstarter. And then the bushing is very thin walled........

    In order to have a nice 1/8 wall replaceable bronze bushing, I'll have to turn down the pedal pivot and replace the brake pivot. More work than I want to do but the idea is to make it easy to keep it snug by replacing an inexpensive bronze bushing and 2 - .20cent orings in the future when it wears out again.

    The pedal I received looks to have some sort of thin walled (worn out) insert.......? stock.........

    Does anyone have a NOS pedal or a very tight pedal to confirm this? I'm just curious what Honda was thinking. Not that it matters, I have to go in the direction I need to, I'm just curious
    All our government does is distract us while they steal from us, misspend our tax $ and ruin our country

  6. #6
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    take a pic and post it up,like to see it
    1985 ATC 250R
    . Team Red Trike

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirtcrasher View Post
    ^ I hear ya.... Been looking at it for a bit now, but this is a fairly good one. I imagine most of them will be pretty sloppy.

    Problem is that you can only turn down the case pivot so much, not allot of meat there or the seal is compromised for the kickstarter. And then the bushing is very thin walled........

    In order to have a nice 1/8 wall replaceable bronze bushing, I'll have to turn down the pedal pivot and replace the brake pivot. More work than I want to do but the idea is to make it easy to keep it snug by replacing an inexpensive bronze bushing and 2 - .20cent orings in the future when it wears out again.

    The pedal I received looks to have some sort of thin walled (worn out) insert.......? stock.........

    Does anyone have a NOS pedal or a very tight pedal to confirm this? I'm just curious what Honda was thinking. Not that it matters, I have to go in the direction I need to, I'm just curious


    But, if you make a new pedal piviot you can make it whatever size you want and then i'd just use a steel sleeve on the aluminum case piviot so it almost cant ware out.

    i'm just throwing ideas at you, I normally like another opinion to get a feel for my options. (just tell me to shut up...lol)

    I owned a 85 200x back in 86 and there was no bushing in that area. all i remeber was 2 THIN seals.
    80s......185 atc, Yamaha tri-moto 200, 85 200x with tons of work
    90s......89 Suzuki quad racer 250 (raced 250 A class for 6 years, late 90s.. custom framed 250x with long travel shocks and a built 350x motor.... built Honda 110
    00s...... chomeoly framed 350 RX with all the goodies (thanks to my bro)
    2012.....Replaced the 350x motor for a 444cc YZ426
    WWW.HREATV.COM

  8. #8
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    The ideas are great, keep em coming

    I threw the steel on steel idea around too. I can do it faster and cheaper.....

    But, I felt the slop in a typical 350X or 86/87 200X (steel on steel) and being part of the frame, it would be tough to keep tight so I was back to my original thoughts.............

    I'm trying to make a inexpensive but replaceable part to keep it fresh.

    I looked into a needle bearing, but a hardened sleeve would have to go on the case pivot and it's not a cheap bearing, super smooth though

    So if anyone in the upper class wants that done, I've got your back!
    All our government does is distract us while they steal from us, misspend our tax $ and ruin our country

  9. #9
    4cfed's Avatar
    4cfed is offline Just Too Addicted Arm chair racerJust too addicted
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    Quote Originally Posted by 200XMichigan View Post
    And it works surprisingly good for not a penny,

    leaving out the fact you cant use your sink for now!

    i hear ya on the 'wanting to ride part'' if done some things so i could ride but nothing like that.... window screen hose clamped over the end of the factory race silencer on my cr250 just so i could ride trails for a few hours


    good work guys on the ideas for solving the rear brake issues
    86 200x, 1st gen 200x axle,400ex hubs,fmf megamax2 muffler

    Three wheeler guys probably have the biggest balls out of all the ATV/Motorcycle riders. You just have to be a little twisted to ride them, and you have to be a great rider to do so.

    'let those who slide decide'


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