Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: tri-z over heating

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    long island ny
    --
    6

    tri-z over heating

    I have a 1985 tri-z 250 that i think is overheating its driping on the pipe . But the overheat light dose not come on i dont know if it is over filled . I took the thermostat out samething .any ideas darren

  2. #2
    luke's Avatar
    luke is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Scunthorpe, England
    --
    209
    Check the conections to the light, and see the bulb is good. Also does the light come on when you first start the bike, it should, this is to show the bulb works, it goes off after only 2 seconds. Have a look at the outside's of the rad's make sure all the fins are good and straight, and not full of dirt and grass. Then check for good water flow through them, it might be good to take them off at this point and remove all the pipes. Take off the water pump cover (right side, lower, frontal) see if the impellor has come off the shaft ? If it has there will be no movement through the cooling system, and the water from the cylinder won't get to the rad's for cooling. This is a common problem with Z's. If it has you need to take off the clutch cover to remove the impellor shaft. If that's not it take off the head and look through all the veins in the head and jug for alloy corosion and build-up of crud, look at all the pipe joints as these are the first places to corrode. Check the timing for correct fire, as if it's off it will create more heat on detonation.
    If it's none of the above, sell it and buy an 85 250R
    Last edited by luke; 12-27-2009 at 07:48 AM.
    198? Manco Quester 300
    1983 KLT 200
    1984 Tri-Zinger 60
    1985 ATC 70
    1985 TRI-Z
    1985 TRI-Z (two Wheel)
    1985 ATC 250R
    1985.5 TRI-Z
    1986 TRI-Z (quad)
    1986 Tecate
    1987 Malaguti Ranocchio 50
    2001 YZ 250

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    conesus lake NY
    --
    11,894
    Blog Entries
    1
    sounds like you got a pin hole leak... let the bike come up to temp.. and look where its drippin from.

    possible you did not get a good seal when you too the thermostat out?

  4. #4
    Racerguy381's Avatar
    Racerguy381 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Puyallup, WA
    --
    265
    Made the mistake of crossing the feed and return hoses to the water pump before. Everthing flows in reverse and ends up overheating.... At least I caught it before it did any damage. If the hoses are hooked up correct when you pop the radiator cap with the engine running it will have a whirlpool effect in the top of the radiator.
    Trikes
    1985 Tri-Z 250 Piped ported and PV'd
    1985 ATC 250R trail destroyer!
    1984 ATC 70 rebuilding
    1982 ATC 70 stut wheeler drag bar an cooler rack equipped
    1973 ATC 70 searching for parts...
    Bikes
    2006 KLX110 BBR160 Super R head ported BBR Super Pro rear swingarm ect...
    1988 KX500 The Beast!
    1986 KX540 In search of parts!!! Help if you have some
    1982 CR480 Unlimited Evo Racer
    1982 CR125 Unlimited Evo Racer
    1982 YZ100 cheater bike...
    1981 KX250 Unlimited money pit Evo Racer

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    long island ny
    --
    6
    Quote Originally Posted by luke View Post
    Check the conections to the light, and see the bulb is good. Also does the light come on when you first start the bike, it should, this is to show the bulb works, it goes off after only 2 seconds. Have a look at the outside's of the rad's make sure all the fins are good and straight, and not full of dirt and grass. Then check for good water flow through them, it might be good to take them off at this point and remove all the pipes. Take off the water pump cover (right side, lower, frontal) see if the impellor has come off the shaft ? If it has there will be no movement through the cooling system, and the water from the cylinder won't get to the rad's for cooling. This is a common problem with Z's. If it has you need to take off the clutch cover to remove the impellor shaft. If that's not it take off the head and look through all the veins in the head and jug for alloy corosion and build-up of crud, look at all the pipe joints as these are the first places to corrode. Check the timing for correct fire, as if it's off it will create more heat on detonation.
    If it's none of the above, sell it and buy an 85 250R
    thanks i will ck and let you know

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    long island ny
    --
    6
    Quote Originally Posted by racerguy381 View Post
    made the mistake of crossing the feed and return hoses to the water pump before. Everthing flows in reverse and ends up overheating.... At least i caught it before it did any damage. If the hoses are hooked up correct when you pop the radiator cap with the engine running it will have a whirlpool effect in the top of the radiator.
    i think i may have switched them when i did the cluth plates i will ck in the morning thanks darren

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Illinois
    --
    491
    Also double check the routing of the hoses going to the coolant bottle. Make sure they are hooked up correctly and not pinched anywhere.

//ArrowChat Integreation Code //