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Thread: 20mm x 1.5 Die For 350x Axle?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    20mm x 1.5 Die For 350x Axle?

    I want to run a die over the axle threads on my '86 350x - do I need a 20mm 1.5 die, such as this one?

    http://www.amazon.com/20mm-1-5-Carbo.../dp/B0007CNJ2W

    Are the axle threads the same for 250r's and 350x's?

  2. #2
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    Well, if no-one knows, I guess I'll just order the die and hope for the best... I can't seem to find anywhere in Toronto that sells a die this size.

  3. #3
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    Ok, so now that I have found a place to order a die, I have another question for you guys...

    I'm trying to repair the threads on my 350x axle, and here's the problem... the outermost threads are DESTROYED for the first 1/3" or so, then the threads become pretty decent. I have a nut that's in good shape, but it obviously won't thread on properly due to the very badly damaged end of the axle.

    So I'm not sure how to go about fixing this... if I try to thread the damaged area with a die, what will happen when I get to the "good" threads? Unless I somehow luck out and start the threading perfectly, chances are it may not match up correctly.

    So what I was thinking of doing was getting an adjustable die that I could expand as much as possible to get past the first damaged section, then tighten up the die on the good threads so it's matched up. Then cut the new threads 'backwards' so to speak, so i'm running the die from the bottom of the threads working my way towards the end of the axle. Do dies cut from both ends?

    Since I've never used a tap or die before, I'm not sure if this is even possible or not - so I'm hoping for some expert advice! I also don't know how expandable these adjustable dies are... will it be able to expand enough to fit overtop of my damaged area?

    My only other option would be to grind or file down the damaged area so my axle bolt can slip onto the axle and bit onto the good threads... any and all advice greatly appreciated!!

  4. #4
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    The adjustable die method would work if you can get one for a reasonable price. The other option would be to have someone who can run a lathe cut the threads from the inside out on the axle. That really shouldn't cost too much if you know someone with a lathe. A little set up and you should be able to clean things up in a few quick passes.
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
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    brazil indiana
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    you need one of these. it is a thread file. you use it just like a file but this has the thread pitch made into the file.
    http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....&group_ID=1149

  6. #6
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    If the head of the bolt is 17 or 19mm, the threads are certainly NOT 20MM. Has to be about 14mm x 1.50 pitch if I had to guess.....

    A set of vernier calipers should be in all your tool boxes

    I use my thread file often........... But, triangular files work too if you just have a bad spot.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirtcrasher View Post
    If the head of the bolt is 17 or 19mm, the threads are certainly NOT 20MM. Has to be about 14mm x 1.50 pitch if I had to guess.....

    A set of vernier calipers should be in all your tool boxes

    I use my thread file often........... But, triangular files work too if you just have a bad spot.

    I assume he is talking about the axle threads at the end of the axle.
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  8. #8
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    I used a dremel tool one time with the thinist cut off wheel I could find, just to clean up the threads on the end, I didnt get too carried away. After that I used a triangular file, and filed the end down a bit more. This worked great for me, and the nut went right on.
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  9. #9
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by SWIGIN View Post
    I assume he is talking about the axle threads at the end of the axle.
    I hear ya, they just can't be 20MM threads.

    Even the rear axles are only what? 18mm?? IDK?

    Another front axle is cheaper than the die! But, I LOVE having tools to work on other things again and those adjustable dies work pretty good............Thats just me though.

    But, if you ruin the lower fork tube threads, you really got yourself in a situation.........

    That steel axle goes into an aluminum fork leg, how did that get messed up?

    Get a set of digital calipers. They go on sale for about 20$ a pop and at least they get you in the ball park diameter and pitch range ...................

    Sh!t, I think I even have a couple Stainless steel front axle bolts from !! or I bet SWIGIN can make one or some up! His lathe is thread ready!! and he seems like a great home machinist................

    When you put it back together, grease all that stuff up inside and out to keep water out of there!
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  10. #10
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    is it a front or rear axle, front axle and swingarm bolt is 14mm1.5, rear axle is 20mm1.5. I use a thread file and die in combo. Fix the threads enough to get the die on, then finish it with the die.

  11. #11
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    Jan 2009
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    Thanks for the ideas everyone... I think I'll order a thread file and die like suggested.

    It's the rear axle, and according to my measurements (and deathman53 confirmed) it's 20mm (27mm socket to remove the nut).

    Here's a picture of the damage - think a thread file and die can repair it?







    And here's how far the nut sits when torqued:


  12. #12
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    If the nut spins on and tightens up and stays tight, I wouldn't worry about it. The 250sx shares the same axle nut, if you wanted to know that tinbit of information.
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  13. #13
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    ouch! a little worse than i thought. i think i would look for a good used axle if it were me. that one could be fixed and still be used but i don't think a thread file by itself will get the job done very easy. is that a picture of each side or two shots of the same side?

  14. #14
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    audioworks04 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Wow, agree that a thread file will most likely not work, neither will a die. You could try the die just so that you are able to thread it on, aslong as you get the clamping force that you need, it will be fine. Those look like a lost cause, the only way i see would be to build up material with a weld on that area then turn it down to the od needed for your die, but still not the best. Last option would be to grind off the threads of the end of the axle, but only do this if you believe that you can get enough thread of it. There really isnt a good fix for this problem at least that I can think of other than replacement.

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  15. #15
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    Finally, Yippie Kai Yeah!! It;s the rear axle. I had no friggen clue..................

    Those look like a bad nut was forced on them or??

    You should've gave up when it didn't go on smooth...............

    Doesn't look too good now, even if you chase them.
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