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Thread: First Gear engagement - ATC 110

  1. #31
    hoser's Avatar
    hoser is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Instructions I found they are out of the service manual and owners manual .
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails ATC110 service ma&#11.jpg   ATC110 clutch..jpg  

  2. #32
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    I wish the Service manual on my E was that detailed, hope your clutch gets fixed, btw nice 110. Ive never seen one with a front end off a 200 on it.
    You will cry, you will scream if you've heard half the **** I've seen.
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  3. #33
    fabiodriven's Avatar
    fabiodriven is offline Aspiring romance novel cover model, and the Official 3WW slayer of thieves and swindlers. Catch me if you can
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3wheeledjunkie View Post
    Before you tear into the little dude. Adjust the clutch first. This happens alot on the newer units we service, people try to adjust it and get it too tight, causing it to creep. Try that first before replacing parts. Loosen nut turn center screw both ways about a half turn to make sure everything is loose, then turn counter-clockwise till you feel resistance (and don't stop the first little bit of drag you feel, turn until you can't anymore) then turn back clockwise a 1/4 turn, tighten nut while holding the screw solid. See if that helps.
    He's already said more than once he adjusted the clutch multiple times per the manual.
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  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by greenhuman View Post
    .They work very similar to modern lock up clutches. The bob-weights have an off set hole that allows them to have no pressure on the clutch pack at idle and when the engine revs increase the weights change position by centifugal force and apply pressure to the plates which push against the springs and bingo, off you go.
    The 310cc 90 engines had Honda XL175 top ends grafted to 90 cases.
    So it is a centrifugal clutch. It just works differently (mechanically not theory) than one you would find on a mini bike. WIth the gear shift lever acting as an over ride.

    I'd love to see an article on how you get 310cc's out of grafting a 175 top end on to a 90, sounds sick!
    You kept the original crank?

    *edit* I found the article...
    Last edited by riverrat; 03-08-2010 at 12:01 PM.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3wheelmecca View Post
    I wish the Service manual on my E was that detailed, hope your clutch gets fixed, btw nice 110. Ive never seen one with a front end off a 200 on it.
    Thanks for the comment. I got both the idea for the 200 front end, and the colective wisdom for the swap, from right here on this forum. This is one of the most active, and helpful, boards that I frequent.

    BTW, the difference in ride is remarkable versus the stock rigid forks of the 110 before I rebuilt.
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    1984 Honda ATC 110 (with a 200s fork...)

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  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by shortline10 View Post
    Could possibly be 1 broken/weak clutch spring causing it to drag a bit . Need to pull the clutch cover and rebuild the clutch .
    Alas, I believe this is what must be done. I will try the adjustment ONE more time, but I am not hopeful. Then it's time to crack open the clutch. Thanks for the the great advice, guys. I will update this post once I have some results, but may take a few weeks.
    _________________________________________________
    Dog
    1984 Honda ATC 110 (with a 200s fork...)

    2009 Suzuki DL650 V-Strom
    1980 Honda CB750 Custom

  7. #37
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    You could just try and turn the adjustment screw in a little more until the clutches stop engaging. Then if the trike acts normal, and doesn't slip, your good to go.
    You could also try a different oil. But I would still take it apart to make sure there are no broken parts.

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