need help getting my front brakes on 350x

[QCR77]

sup guys, the brakes i ordered from a board member showed up today and the first thing i did was take an inventory of new hardware to get at home depot. got back with the goods and got the master on the bars but i go to put the caliper on and i cant separate the pads/compress the calipers. now when i first opened the package i played with it and could spread the pads with just my fingers. but before i went to the depot i sprayed everything down with brake parts cleaner cause the whole thing was real dirty. got back, blew it off with air and put the master on. the other thing i find odd is that the lever does work and closes the pads real good (still has fluid in it) but when i unscrewed the small zert that i figured was the bleeder, no air or fluid came out. anybody wanna school me a little in these brakes? i can take pics if it will help

[Yamaha_Rules69]

You have to use a C clamp to push the piston back into the caliper, it is out too far from the brakes being worn out. Put the clamp on either the inside pad, or remove the pads and press on it directly, until the piston goes all the way down, then your pads will fit right in, and you will be able to assemble it. On the bleeder screw, you should hold in the front brake lever while you crack it open with your other hand. Watch out so it dosnt spray you in the eyes. If you try squeezing and cracking, and nothing comes out, the bleeder screw itself might have some dirt in it, blocking the fluid. If this is the case, you will have to try to replace the screw, or clean it. Make sure you take the cap off the resovoir at the bars, and keep an eye on the fluid level so it dosnt get too low while bleeding the system. Sometimes pumping the lever, holding it, and cracking the valve dosnt work, and you will have to find a mighty vac, or suringe to purge the system. Good luck, try the above and see what happens!

[QCR77]

thanks YR69. im gonna go try what you said and i'll be right back. i just dont know if i can take a pad out or have room to clamp the inner one. anyway thanks for the reply i'll BRB

[JohnR.]

I've had cases where the bleeder is plugged up with crud. The first thing I do is pull the bleeder out and clean all its passages with a piece of wire. I have found a pair of large channel locks works very well for compressing the pads.

John

[QCR77]

alright thanks for the tips. i got it all on the bike and bled it 3 times, then went for a test drive and they did work but not untill after you pumped it once. so it was like you're cruisin' , squeeze em' and nothin but then on the next squeeze they would work. do i need to bleed them more? bleed them but only barely crack the bleeder? can you bleed it from the top somewhere?

[atc350xer]

A C-clamp is your friend... also, make sure you close the bleeder before you let off the brake lever!

Also, I just used a clear piece of hose about 18" long, squeezed it over the bleeder, and siphoned by mouth, closing it finger tight with the hose on... the good part of doing it this way is, the fluid's surface tension keeps it in the tube, so if you do mess up and let go of the lever before the bleeder is closed, it just sucks fluid from the hose back in.

[QCR77]

i'll go clean out the passage like johnR suggested and bleed them again, but if anyone wants to chime in please do

[Vealmonkey]

Yep, they are going to need bled more. It may take you several times. Make sure you have plenty of brake fluid handy. Also a second set of hands can come in real handy. Keep up the good work.

[Dirtcrasher]

CHECK THE BLEED SCREW!!Then it won't or BARELY bleeds.

Many get over-tightened and it squashes the end. I drill out the inside and the 2 bleed screws myself........I lathe up the tapered end,,,,,

I never "push" in dirty pistons. I use a brass brush and a brass wire brush all around to get it all clean/good and or piston problems go back into the caliper.

With 2 piston fronts (like the 350X, both LC 250R's) I use the pad to shove both pistons now cleaned and lubed back in....................

GLUCK,
Steve
DC

[QCR77]

alright i cleaned out the entire system with air and patience. i disconnected the line at the master and caliper, blew that out forever. then i took out the little rubber seal type thing and blew out the master. then i took out the bleeder and blew through that for a while and the same for the caliper with that screw out. all is clean (that fluid it came with was almost mud). now , whats the trick to getting the fluid back in the line and the air out so i can bleed it a bunch? i hooked everything back up and filled up the master and just sat there pumping the lever but only got micro bubbles in return. there has to be a logical/quicker way to get back to a starting point lol

[QCR77]

oops double post

[QCR77]

CHECK THE BLEED SCREW!!Then it won't or BARELY bleeds.

Many get over-tightened and it squashes the end. I drill out the inside and the 2 bleed screws myself........I lathe up the tapered end,,,,,

I never "push" in dirty pistons. I use a brass brush and a brass wire brush all around to get it all clean/good and or piston problems go back into the caliper.

With 2 piston fronts (like the 350X, both LC 250R's) I use the pad to shove both pistons now cleaned and lubed back in....................

GLUCK,
Steve
DC

so there is 2 bleeders on theis thang? where is the other one?

[atc350xer]

the fast way is to loosen the oil bolt just to get the line filled, then go back to the bleeder

[QCR77]

the fast way is to loosen the oil bolt just to get the line filled, then go back to the bleeder

which one is considered the oil bolt

[JohnR.]

I'm guessing he means the 12mm "banjo bolt" that holds the front brake hose onto the caliper. When my front caliper on my R needed a rebuild it was acting like it wasn't fully bled even when it was.

John