gas tank rust removal

[Frankencelery]

I checked out that ebay link....the Por15 is a little more expensive than Kreem, but it has the advantage of Not Sucking, so it must be better.

I've only used Kreem once (did I already say that?), but it worked fine. Maybe I'll try the Por15 next time.

[350xRules]

So far the best product I have found to coat the inside of the tanks is a product called Red Kote (that is how they spell Kote) Its about $34 a can on ebay and it will coat about 2-4 tanks depending on the size. I have coated several 3 wheeler, odyssey and generator tanks and have had great results. The fastest rust removal process I have found is to poor out any old fuel. Then remove and plug off the pet cok ( for this a thick plastic bag applied over the spout heald on by a hoseclamp works well) Then flush any heavy rust and debres out with water. Then pour the water out and fill the lower half of the tank with muriatic acid, the fill the rest of the tank up to the brim with water, set the cap on loosley. This will help prevent some evaporation of the acid/water mix and help clean the inside of the tank cap. The muriatic acid is somewhat dangerouse, its 31% hydrochloric acid which I believe is as potent as hydrochloric acid gets. It will burn your skin, eyes and lungs if you dont handle it right and use the proper protecive gear. Weaker acids like Phosphoric acid, or even white viniger will work, they just take longer, but are much safer. It also seems temperature dependant, the warmer it is the faster it will work. After the acid has removed the rust, you pour it out and flush the inside of the tank several times with water. Fill it all the way up, dump it out, fill it up again, dump it out ect. ect. several times, like 5-6. Then dry as much of the water from inside the tank as possible. You can use compressed air, or at this point, since all the gas and acid fumes have been removed from the inside of the tank from the multiple water flushings, you can even use a heat gun set to low so as not to burn the paint on the tank. After the inside of the tank is reasonably dry, you flush with Acetone, most of the tank coating chemicals are acetone based, this step will help to remove any left over moisture and help prep the metal to take the new coating. You dont have to use much acetone, the tank should be fairly dry inside anyway, it just helps to remove the little bits of moisture from the corners of the tank where the air has a hard time reaching. Next use compressed air (not a heat gun as the acetone fumes will blow up you and your newly cleaned tank) to dry some of the acetone. The tank is now ready to take the coating. Next poor a fair ammount of coating into the tank. Its alittle trial and error here as too much will take a long time to dry and not enough will mean the you have too thin a coating, or areas that are not coated at all. A rule of thumb though, it always seems to take alittle more the you think it should. Anyway, after pooring some into the tank, rotate the tank in every which way, its a good idea to have the cap on as this will help coat the inside of the cap. After getting a good even coat on all inside surfaces of the tank take the cap off and place the tank in a position so that the coating will collect at one end in the inside of the tank. Let is sit for 3-5min or so and you should have a small pool of the coating in the bottom of the tank. Now rotate it around again, coating all surfaces again and let the tank sit for another 3-5min or so in a different position, from here on out you basically repeat this process until the coating is dry. Again its all temperature dependant. I have has best results doing this in summer months when its hot out. You tend to get a good thick coating with no runs, sags or dripps. Looks very nice and if done right actually looks factory.