I don;t think the cable is kinked but I will check it out. I lubricated the cable, it was the first thing I did. I cleaned it out, put a new float needle in it, and replaced the main jet.
I don;t think the cable is kinked but I will check it out. I lubricated the cable, it was the first thing I did. I cleaned it out, put a new float needle in it, and replaced the main jet.
Are all the holes in the main jet holder clean and clear? Is the slow jet clear? Are the holes in the slow jet clear? This is what replacing all that is easier than messing around with it, hoping it's all clean. The main jet holder doesn't come in a carb kit unfortunately. Is the idle mixture screw in good shape and is the spring still behind it?
All the holes are clean and clear. The mixture screw is in good condition and the spring is intact. I made sure everything was clean. I disassembled the carb completely with the exception of the choke assembly. I started it up today and same thing. I had to choke it to bring the idle down. Then, because it was still cold, the idle was very high. I checked-and zero air leaks.
Well, just because it looks clean doesn't mean it is. Carb kits are under $20 and include everything. Is there a burr on your slide that's maybe hanging up on the guide pin? Does anything happen when you adjust the idle speed screw?
I cleaned them out with wire, it is very clean. I will check the cable and for burrs.
I am just stumped on this one. The cable is very smooth all around, no burrs on the slide or in the slide bore. Today I went to try to start the ATC, and it wouldn't start. I quickly realized it was the spark-the spark was jumping to the insulator. So I replaced the spark plug, thinking I had found the problem. No, I hadn't. Still acts like always.
Have to turn the idle screw wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy in to get it to barely idle, and whenever I gas it, puffs of black smoke come out of the exhaust. It runs great though, except for the idle. Argh! Unfortunately I don't have the money for a rebuild kit, I MIGHT if the machine didn't run, period, but it runs. It leaks a little around the carb bow because I had to make a gasket for it. If I was 100% sure a rebuild kit would fix it, I'd probably do it. It just doesn't make sense!!
I noticed something. In the throat of the carburetor as it goes into the intake, there are two small holes. One is directly above the idle jet, the other is in front of it, slightly offset. When I plug the hole nearest the slide, and plug the mixture screw with my finger and blow into the purt where the idle jet goes, I get no air out of the outermost hole. Does anyone have a schematic of the carburetor (Keihin PB??) ?
I think I have it figured out. There is a passage that goes underneath the hole closest the slide, that goes from the idle jet to the mixture screw. There is a brass ball blocking it. I need to remove the brass ball to clear the passage. Any ideas???
Last edited by tundrawolf; 04-03-2010 at 10:48 PM.
OK both brass beads blocking the ports are 2.5MM each, one on the exit of the carb, the other on the side of the carb, but relating to the idle jet. Also, I do not believe it was necessary to remove either one. Both passages are rather large, and didn't seem to be clogged. But I had to know. Maybe my problems are due to float level? I wish I had the $ to get the rebuild kit. Everything else seems to be fine.
Is your float hanging up on your homemade gasket...?
1985 Tri-Z-
Originally Posted by mywifeknowseverything
Friends, I thank you for your help in this matter. After all of my work, I figured it out. I put in a ginormous slow or pilot jet and leaned out the needle two positions. The pilot jet says "35", but the "37" I compared it to was at least 2/3 smaller, unless Keihin is going by a "Larger number equals smaller hole". I put it in, and the bog is gone. It has never run better. I got done with a great ride today. Thanks again!