Stock 85 crank

[Macdiesel]

I just pulled out my stock 85 crank its not locked up just way too much movement from left to right, it is a pop can crank and no one around here can rebuild / split it, I all ready bought an aftermarket new one, any suggestions on what to do with this apparent paper weight? is it worth anything needing a new crank bearing?

[jadleybray]

Not IMO, needs complete rebuild at this point. If your going to press it apart to replace the bearing, you should expect that the rod itself has reached its lifespan also. although, any decent machine shop should be able to do that for you.

[Macdiesel]

oh well yea a rod kit for sure, but I have been told by several local honda shops around here the 85 and 86 r's had a shield in the crank and unless you have a special jig or tool the shield is damaged during press apart and the crank is ruined, I dont know for sure but that is what all the honda shops here locally in KC have told me

[Dirtcrasher]

You may be dead on......... Honda cranks have a thin outer shield/cover and I'm unsure WHY they made them that way?? Maybe if I buy a junk one and cut it up, I'd understand it. They may drill and balance them under that shield and the shield just keeps the atomized fuel mix flowing smooth over those thin covers?? I'm not sure but any good crank/' performance engine builder would know..........

Cranks are not cheap - about 350$ even from a discounted retailer such as Service Honda. But, if you HAVE the $$, you'll have peace of mind for a decade and longer to come.......

I have DEEPA's old 85 crank here and it's out of true. I tried my best but could not get it in spec. He ran it a year (as it was) with no issue but I was certainly unhappy with it!

I'm SURE that I was more worried than he was

Are you sure the side to side play is too much? You have to read the Shop service manual and check the spec with a feeler gauge...... Lots of guys think there crank is junk do to the side play but it's the up/down play that is usually noticeable along with the side to side big end bearing clearances. They all have side to side play; Just think about your "small end" or where it rides within the piston and on the wrist pin. There's a TON of slop up there! but it must be necessary for whatever reason......

We opted for the spacer plate and brand new "long rod" crank and I bet it won't be apart again for YEARS!

People are STILL running there stock cranks with nothing more than the main bearings being changed ever so often; They seem to hold up dam well !!

Some shops change the rod for 80$ -120$ or so plus parts which is very reasonable seeing that it has to be trued up and done perfectly.

I'll NEVER claim to be a crank "specialist"

[Macdiesel]

I bough the hot rod crank for 200 just to be safe, and I used a in place dial indicator and the shop manual calls for 40 thousandths play left to right this one was right at 100 thousandths play left to right, Im just really anal when it comes to internal engine parts I like them to be perfect, this engine did not have a lot of run time as the piston was about 10 years old indicated by the key ring stlye circlips on the wiseco piston it had just st for an extremely long time which we all know is far worse than running the ever living crap out of them