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Thread: Tri-z foot peg FIX!

  1. #1
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    Lightbulb Tri-z foot peg FIX!

    ever wonder why your Z pegs Droop and strip out?

    all the pressure is put on the area with the arrow.. with no reinforcement on the inside..poor design IMO ..
    As you can see on the inside, the tiny square nuts that strip all the time.... thats all that stops the peg from ripping off.

    to cure this I'm making two 1/4" steel plates the same shape, thread and Tap each hole, then I will thread a bolt through... then I will thread a nut on the bolt on the backside and weld that to the plate..this will make tripple thickness of threads..

    then I'll weld the plate to the bike.. more to come!
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  2. #2
    WilliamJ's Avatar
    WilliamJ is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
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    I was wondering about that. They droop but they haven't stripped yet. Now I'll have to fix them up so they are level. I have oxy-acetylene right here.

    When the Z was stripped and blasted four years ago there were a lot of marginal welds where the brackets were attached - but that's how lots of production stuff is. When you race anything stock it breaks pretty quick, especially off road.

  3. #3
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    little progress tonight.. as you can see the 3-4 spots that water has access to the tri z peg I think is a BIG downfall! Corrosion, mud you name it can get in..... the center tube was packed solid with mud... So every time you take out your bolts ,, the corroded bolt tares up the threds..

    I will weld all these Holes up!!! as you can see no light through the center tube..

    Willam you will get a better and straiter cut with a blade.. I was thinkin oxy,, but I needed something to weld too LOL!
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  4. #4
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    moveing on you can see the tube cleaned out, plate's have been cut and drilled,Ready for TAP.

    once thoes are taped.. I'll run the bolt through the plate and run a nut on the bolt from the back side , so the threds match, Tac weld the nut..on each side for added thred! then weld the whole plate on..

    check out the old Heli coil I found inside the frame......
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  5. #5
    WilliamJ's Avatar
    WilliamJ is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
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    I was thinking I could use a thin (2mm) disc cutter to remove.

    I was also wondering about leaving the plates in place and drilling / grinding out the old threaded inserts. Then perhaps brazing or welding the new nuts in place. Your beefed up plates will be strong and rigid, but will be easier to MIG / TIG, than gas weld or braze. Is that how you're doing it?

    Don't like all the rust inside though - needs some treatment for sure. What do you recommend?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by WilliamJ View Post
    I was thinking I could use a thin (2mm) disc cutter to remove.

    I was also wondering about leaving the plates in place and drilling / grinding out the old threaded inserts. Then perhaps brazing or welding the new nuts in place. Your beefed up plates will be strong and rigid, but will be easier to MIG / TIG, than gas weld or braze. Is that how you're doing it?

    Don't like all the rust inside though - needs some treatment for sure. What do you recommend?
    I think you will get a better cut william, I used 3/8 plate instead of 1/4" going to weld up all the holes and plates on with Gas MIG.

    Ready to weld on,, had to grind one nut, down to clear the inner tube..
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  7. #7
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    Turn that heat up!! I hope it's a 230V welder and not the 115V model, gotta melt that stuff together DEEP!

    Those 1st pics of the repaired nut a few posts back look like a little kid welded them

    I can't tell if those nuts melted in well, I have a plan to fix DEEPA's at some point myself but I've got a couple other tricks up my sleeve

    I'm sure you know, much easier with a naked frame, you'll just have to lay it down.
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  8. #8
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    Looks good and strong now...... Man, i can't believe the oem pegs were supported by those cheap weld nuts. Figured the thread depth would have been more! Now, i'll be thinkin' bout that every time im gittin' air at the dunes with the Z..

  9. #9
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    I have this done on one side the right side and the person was supposed to do both! It is very strong. also i have a friend running a bead under the foot peg stop to angle it back up so its sitting level i will have pictures up soon! ill post them in here.
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  10. #10
    Mosh is offline I'm the one with all the 2 stroke around here! The day begins with 3WW
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    Man..That will be cool.
    But if you are going through all this work, why not make a "uni-peg" mount so maybe you can put some 450R pegs on too along with the stockers?
    Here is where my long useless list of stuff nobody cares about should go...


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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mosh View Post
    Man..That will be cool.
    But if you are going through all this work, why not make a "uni-peg" mount so maybe you can put some 450R pegs on too along with the stockers?
    because I have Hagens Pegs!!!!!!!!!!

  12. #12
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    Oh wow !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !:d there is absoultly NO give,,,,,
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    Last edited by Bryan Raffa; 08-27-2010 at 11:36 PM.

  13. #13
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    Awesome work Raffa! That looks like a very well thought out repair/upgrade.
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  14. #14
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    the Bike has a SOLID feel to it now! before it was spongy.. I'm very happy with the way they turned out.. also I opted NOT to run the nice pretty stainless bolts and washers,, as thoes break VERY easy...as I broke one off putting it together.. Man I was pissed.. I got it out without dammage to the new threds,, VERY BRITTLE!! Ended up using steel bolts.

  15. #15
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    Yeah, stainless should never be used on footpeg bolts, it's actually too soft.
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