'86 250R Engine Hanger Bolt Hole Repair Question

[Xhumeka]

DO NOT use a "maybe-out" if that thing breaks off inside there, you only have worse problems. They are a B!t*H to drill through FYI

Thanks Mosh - I bought a nice set of cobalt bits and it did indeed start to chew through that bolt! I should have kept drilling, and just got rid of the damn thing, but no - i instead reached for the easy-out even after MudBug warned me. It was a decent quality one too - but without warning SNAP.

Now I _do_ have a worse mess to deal with

[Mosh]

Thanks Mosh - I bought a nice set of cobalt bits and it did indeed start to chew through that bolt! I should have kept drilling, and just got rid of the damn thing, but no - i instead reached for the easy-out even after MudBug warned me. It was a decent quality one too - but without warning SNAP.

Now I _do_ have a worse mess to deal with

That sucks.

There is a HUGE misconception with eZ outs and reverse extractors.
Many times a broken bolt is cross threaded or so gummed up with mud and rust and corrosion that even the EZ outs will not pull the bolt out. So anytime I see someone saying to use them, I always cringe. They only time they work well and simple is if the head of the bolt snapped,but the threads are not damaged and in sound shape and not gummed up to badly or cross threaded.
There are methods to use them in bad situations, but it would take me a hour to type out how we use them with severely damged bolts and threads. Usually requires a method of heating and bee's wax and proper cool down time.

But don't give up hope yet.

This does happen and the best thing I found to use is mini carbide burrs in a die grinder to grind that hard EZ out away, then you can continue drilling.

http://www.carbidebur.com/18shank/miniburs.htm
These require a mini air powered die grinder with a small collet for the shank.
The burrs themselves are expensive. The tapered type works well to dig that broken extractor out.

However they are expensive and they have to be CARBIDE or they will just wear away in seconds.

So you can either buy all that, or a machine shop can take over the task for you to the tune of $70 to $100, which will be less in cost overall if you have to buy the burrs, special collet and die grinder.

[Xhumeka]

Thanks again Mosh - that carbide bur idea helped a lot and I was able to FINALLY drill through!!!

I started by drilling a hole to the side of the snapped off extractor (to the left in the picture below), and gradually making the hole larger by stepping up in bit size. This slowly chewed away at the side of the stuck extractor, breaking it apart slowly. Then once the hole was large enough, I went at it with the dremel and carbide burs.

Eventually I got enough of it dremelled away that I was able to drill the rest of the way through the stuck bolt, PHEW!!!

Thanks again for everyone's help/suggestions. I find that titanium-coated bits actually worked better than cobalt, but the titanium-coated were more brittle.

Lots of sweat, patience and whiskey helped too ;)