Who Knew picking sand for Sandblasting would be so hard!!!!! Looking for Help

[TecateDan]

Okay, I found a place that wil powercoat my entire trike for $300 but I need to dissasemble and sandblast all of the parts. The disasembling is done and I own a 50Gallon pressure pot sandblaster but I have no Idea what type of media I should get.
Currently I was thinkning "Black Beauty" The frame has the typical surface rust as well as the swingarm so I don't need that much rust removal but I do need some. Also can I sand blast the aluminum Triple Tree with the same Media???? I'v e done some research but now I'm more confused then when I started. Somebody out there must know what the deal is. Help a brother out will ya

[aldochina]

the black beauty is fine for the steel parts, but not sure about the aluminum, prob glass beads, or something less harsh.

[Vealmonkey]

I prefer glass beads as they are less abrasive than sand. Picture glass beads as round beads and the sand basically as cubes with lots of harsh edges and corners. Sand blasting will make parts disappear. Glass beads are way more forgiving. It may take a little longer with glass beads, but it will leave more metal in the end. Just make sure your parts are clean of grease and oil and such before you blast no matter what media you are using.

[TecateDan]

I don't have a blast cabinet so what would be the cost of enough beads to do my entire trike be with out reclaiming the media ?

[TheRealFatShady]

Probably a lot.

I have to sandblast my 250r this week. Maybe I will use black beauty on the steel parts, and glass beads on the 450r/other aluminum parts? Any idea on the easiest place to get either media, and can glass beads just be run via any sandblaster?

Sorry to threadjack, kind of in the same boat as you.

[Vealmonkey]

I don't have a clue as per cost without a cabinet. If I was you, I would pick up a plastic baby pool and do your trike inside that and reuse the beads. It may take longer, but probably cheaper.

[WilliamJ]

Had Tri-Z sandblasted a while ago. It had a purple powder coated frame and it took a lot of time to strip the paint. The sand was so harsh it ate into the surface of the steel.

Do not use sand on ally - always a soft bead or you'll wreck it.

I've not tried it but classic/collector car people use soda or, would you believe it, walnut shells! Very kind to the parent metal. Get picking those nuts. Not sure if you have to eat all nuts first?

Bill

[EarlyBronocGuy]

For really rusty metal, I've always just used playground sand. If you just want to remove paint, but the metal is in great shape (no rust), glass bead would probably be your best bet.

Sandblasting works great, but it can be a pain to do - if the weather is too humid, you're constantly having to stop and clean the feed tubes and nozzles because they clog up. If it's too dry, the static charge that builds up can knock you on your ass. Plus, you've got to have a compressor that can handle the constant demand, and you've always got a huge mess to clean up afterward. Try to get all the parts you think you will need to blast together at the same time, and do them all at once. If you've only got a few parts or just a frame, consider taking them to someplace that does blasting, and see if they can work them into a job that they're already doing - only a few more minutes for them, and easier for you.

[TecateDan]

Where u located fatshady

[fabiodriven]

I think he's out near Worcester.

EDIT: It says he is in Worcester. Open your dam eyes Dan.

[TheRealFatShady]

Hope Ave, exit 10 off 290. Driveway is all sand/gravel anyway, so I guess I can blast there, if you needed something done.

[TecateDan]

I am getting my media from general sand in bridgewater 13$ for a 100# bag of black beauty

[dksix]

Sand and glass bead aren't great for pre powder coating prep. Glass bead leaves less than the desired surface finish for proper adhesion. With a pot blaster, it's not hard to fashion a make shift cabinet. Get a large box like a fridge comes in (check one of the rent to own places). The Black Beauty is used by many custom coaters, AmberBlast from Northern Tool is pretty good too. The rough stuff can eat into softer stuff but you can turn the pressure down and hold off a little farther and use 20/40 on aluminum without damage.

[Dirtcrasher]

Black Beauty was like 16$ a bag, didn't impress me but I was "told" it had lots of peaks/angular and a great media.

I blast everything, motors included with Silica Sand 00, wipe it with acetone and PC it. Lookm in my 20 day build for results. I used the same procedure on DEEPA'S 250R motor I rebuilt twice (once for a short rod, once for a long rod) and it looks just fine. I have never had the need for glass beads, walnut shells etc.

I could care less what works for other people because that works for me..............

My 6HP and 33 gallon compressor get the job done but anyone blasting truly needs a larger holding tank, or a dual stage compressor. It's allot of work for me to PC and I cannot afford a 1000-1500$ set up so I take my time and basically do it for me and my close buds that ask me to help.

If you are only gonna do a few parts a couple times a year, there are plenty of shops out there with "walk-in" ovens that are set up to do this sort of stuff.

For the home guy like me, I strip my parts first, then blast them. It saves allot of time with the compressor running like a watch; And the oil free compressors are loud as crap. Not fun, but completely doable by the average guy............

[aldochina]

they say the silica dust is cancer causing, but if you were a mask it should be fine, unless your old school, then you can just rely on your nose hairs.lol I have used red garnet, works awsome, fast, probably expensive, gotta be careful with thin, or soft metals, pretty abrasive, its what nys dot. uses to blast the bridges and stuff.