Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 16

Thread: Dissasembly of Tecate front Forks??

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    blackstone/ma
    --
    1,491

    Dissasembly of Tecate front Forks??

    What is the easiest wat to dissasemble the front forks on my 85 tecate? I would like to send the bottoms out for PC and change the oil/seals while I'm at it anyways. Is it as easy as putting an alen wrench in the bottom and hitting it with an impact gun??

    Thanks guys

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    OK
    --
    5,450
    You should be able to use an impact to get it loose. I bought the Kawasaki tool to loosen/tighten it. Several guys on here have made one to hold the head of the bolt inside the fork tube to keep it from spinning. I had a hell of a time trying to get my seals out. The easiest way to get the old seals out is to use a real thin screwdriver to get in between the seal and the lip. Crush the seal inward and it will come right out. I bought a seal remover, didn't work. Broke several screwdrivers trying to pry it out.
    Rides:
    1986 ATC250R (sectional pipe and Klemm Research silencer)
    1986 ATC250R (Desert Bike, WAX-ON seat, Dual Cibie lights, Steering Stabilizer)
    1979 ATC110 (Bandito frame and forks, Turbo wheels, disc braked)
    1982 ATC70 (Lifan manual 125)
    1987 LT80 (piped, widened)


    My feedback thread
    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ack-for-dcreel

    RIP Trace.. Godspeed.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    blackstone/ma
    --
    1,491
    so, take the spring out through the top nut where the schrader valve is then hit it with an impact and make a custom tool to hold the nut?? any idea what size the nut on the bottom is? could you use a lot of extensions with a socket on the end??

    THanks Guys

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    OK
    --
    5,450
    Quote Originally Posted by TecateDan View Post
    so, take the spring out through the top nut where the schrader valve is then hit it with an impact and make a custom tool to hold the nut?? any idea what size the nut on the bottom is? could you use a lot of extensions with a socket on the end??

    THanks Guys
    I ran out to the garage. I'm posting pics to show you what it is
    Rides:
    1986 ATC250R (sectional pipe and Klemm Research silencer)
    1986 ATC250R (Desert Bike, WAX-ON seat, Dual Cibie lights, Steering Stabilizer)
    1979 ATC110 (Bandito frame and forks, Turbo wheels, disc braked)
    1982 ATC70 (Lifan manual 125)
    1987 LT80 (piped, widened)


    My feedback thread
    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ack-for-dcreel

    RIP Trace.. Godspeed.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    OK
    --
    5,450
    This is the part (damping rod) that the allen bolt threads into inside the fork tube. It attaches the fork tube to the lower.




    The top of the damping rod has a 12 point like pattern inside of it. I can't remember the exact size of bolt head that fits, but it will fit into it like a socket. You weld the threaded end to a rod and put a t handle on it to keep the damping rod from spinning when you hit it with an impact.

    Or buy an $80 Kawasaki tool that works like poo. It's like a wedge you force into the head to keep it from spinning. Works, but not very well.

    Rides:
    1986 ATC250R (sectional pipe and Klemm Research silencer)
    1986 ATC250R (Desert Bike, WAX-ON seat, Dual Cibie lights, Steering Stabilizer)
    1979 ATC110 (Bandito frame and forks, Turbo wheels, disc braked)
    1982 ATC70 (Lifan manual 125)
    1987 LT80 (piped, widened)


    My feedback thread
    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ack-for-dcreel

    RIP Trace.. Godspeed.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    OK
    --
    5,450
    Sometimes it will come right out with an impact, other times it will spin (damping rod).

    So let the air out of the shraeder valve, take off the top of the fork tube. Drain your oil, and remove the springs. You may have to pump the fork some to get all of the oil out. Then you can remove the allen to take the lower and tube apart. If you have each fork out of the triples, just drain the oil out of the top of the fork.

    The allen on the bottom of the fork is an 8mm allen
    Rides:
    1986 ATC250R (sectional pipe and Klemm Research silencer)
    1986 ATC250R (Desert Bike, WAX-ON seat, Dual Cibie lights, Steering Stabilizer)
    1979 ATC110 (Bandito frame and forks, Turbo wheels, disc braked)
    1982 ATC70 (Lifan manual 125)
    1987 LT80 (piped, widened)


    My feedback thread
    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ack-for-dcreel

    RIP Trace.. Godspeed.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    OK
    --
    5,450
    I found a nut that fits and it's just a hair under 3/4" face to face straight across. The head of the bolt that goes through the cantilever for the rear suspension fits perfectly :-)
    Rides:
    1986 ATC250R (sectional pipe and Klemm Research silencer)
    1986 ATC250R (Desert Bike, WAX-ON seat, Dual Cibie lights, Steering Stabilizer)
    1979 ATC110 (Bandito frame and forks, Turbo wheels, disc braked)
    1982 ATC70 (Lifan manual 125)
    1987 LT80 (piped, widened)


    My feedback thread
    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ack-for-dcreel

    RIP Trace.. Godspeed.

  8. #8
    fabiodriven's Avatar
    fabiodriven is offline Aspiring romance novel cover model, and the Official 3WW slayer of thieves and swindlers. Catch me if you can
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    The woods
    --
    10,515
    Thanks a lot dcreel. I've been wondering about this for a long time. Now I can just have Dan rebuild mine when they finally do lunch.
    85 Tri-Zinger 60
    85 ATC250SX
    86 ATC250SX
    87 ATC250SX
    02 XR650L conversion
    84 ATC 480R

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Northeast
    --
    17,460
    Leave the long spring IN while you impact gun remove the lower 6 or 8MM allen bolt, a hand removal is 50/50 shot. You can drain the oil but don't remove the spring, it helps keep the damping rod from spinning.

    Is there not a clip holding the seals in place like most forks? Check out the manual, something must hold the seal in place.......??
    All our government does is distract us while they steal from us, misspend our tax $ and ruin our country

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    OK
    --
    5,450
    There is a clip that holds the seal in place. But its a press fit of the seal into the tube. In the 6 or so that I've done they were all hopelessly stuck. The clip really wasn't doing anything.
    Rides:
    1986 ATC250R (sectional pipe and Klemm Research silencer)
    1986 ATC250R (Desert Bike, WAX-ON seat, Dual Cibie lights, Steering Stabilizer)
    1979 ATC110 (Bandito frame and forks, Turbo wheels, disc braked)
    1982 ATC70 (Lifan manual 125)
    1987 LT80 (piped, widened)


    My feedback thread
    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ack-for-dcreel

    RIP Trace.. Godspeed.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    blackstone/ma
    --
    1,491
    Okay, I waited way to long to actually do this and now there is a ride coming up and I need to get this done.. Any advice on what fork seals to buy?? Will any old pair off of ebay do or is there a particular brand I should use. Does anyone know what the correct oil is while were on the subject.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    OK
    --
    5,450
    I got my seals off Ebay and they are still holding up. Stock weight would be 10w. I used 20w BelRay fork oil when I rebuilt mine. 259 - 267 ml of fluid per leg if they are completely dry. Using a ratio rite cup makes it a whole lot easier to measure and pour.

    The other measurement would be 180mm + or - 2mm from the top of the fork tube with the forks fully compressed front wheel on the ground with springs removed from fork leg.
    Rides:
    1986 ATC250R (sectional pipe and Klemm Research silencer)
    1986 ATC250R (Desert Bike, WAX-ON seat, Dual Cibie lights, Steering Stabilizer)
    1979 ATC110 (Bandito frame and forks, Turbo wheels, disc braked)
    1982 ATC70 (Lifan manual 125)
    1987 LT80 (piped, widened)


    My feedback thread
    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ack-for-dcreel

    RIP Trace.. Godspeed.

  13. #13
    cochran is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Bemidji, MN
    --
    305
    Lots of helpful information in this thread. I am rebuilding a set of forks right now. Does anyone have advice for removing the seals? Mine are coming out in pieces. Clips are out and they are still being a pain.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Leander TX
    --
    2,217
    In my experience - 2 or 3 sets of each recently - the 85s have been coming out A LOT easier than the 84s.

    I've actually had to use the propane torch on a couple - heated the tubes up and the seals came out easier. Hardest fork seals I've pulled out in 35 years.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    eden,ny
    --
    3,481
    I made a tool a while ago if I remember right it was an 18 mm(outside) nut that I used.

//ArrowChat Integreation Code //