Im finally ready to machine you new parts.

**aldochina** · 03-08-2011, 07:51 PM

very cool swigin!! i have loosely followed your lathe resto thread(good stuff)!! Glad to see your gonna get right down to putting that beast to good use. If i need anything, i will hit you up.

**Dirtcrasher** · 03-08-2011, 08:04 PM

Typical Applications

303 is used almost exclusively for parts requiring machining, grinding, or polishing where good corrosion resistance is also required. It’s non-seizing and non-galling properties make it ideal for moving parts. Being an austenitic steel, it is useful where low magnetic permeability is desired. 303 has fairly good forming properties. Used for aircraft parts, as well as shafts, gears, valves, valve trims, all types of screw machine products, bolts, screws, and machine parts, as well as architectural purposes. It is not recommended for vessels containing liquids or gases under high pressure.

**SWIGIN** · 03-08-2011, 08:16 PM

Thanks for that DC!

Funny thing is thats what I thought I'd use if I go that way...lol

thanks for making up my mind for me.

**SWIGIN** · 03-08-2011, 08:22 PM

OK guys, I just ordered a bag of nuts and some tool steel, don't leave me hanging...lol

**zzmegad** · 03-08-2011, 08:49 PM

17-4 PH SS is strong with great corrosion resistance. Of coarse its expensive and not as easy on tooling...

**Dirtcrasher** · 03-08-2011, 09:23 PM

Originally Posted by SWIGIN

Thanks for that DC!

Funny thing is thats what I thought I'd use if I go that way...lol

thanks for making up my mind for me.

Your welcome, your always correcting or adding to things I post............

I just know that when you say "Stainless Steel", guys like that!; Who doesn't want a shiney stainless bolt??

It's strong,tough and takes quite some time to turn down lathe-wise, then "THREAD IT!!"

**muthey** · 03-08-2011, 10:37 PM

If I was to use any stainless on a trike part I would use 416, just for the simple fact it wears out less and is easier to machine, than 304 or 316 which is gummier, granted it is easier to corrode, but when it comes down to tensile strength vs. corrosion I would choose tensile strength any day, I agree with your choice on avoiding stainless. for the price of stainless I would rather have something that I know my fat butt can hit that jump and not break the bolt when landing or bend it, I machine 316 and 416 all the time, and in my opinion 416 is a way better material for shaft work, also comes out with a better finish when completed. One thing to remember with stainless is to rough it in with coolant, and let it get cold again before finishing it off, the heat expansion can get over .016 in the end which will scrap a part in the end other than 304 I have not had the luxury of dealing with any of the other stainless out there, but I can tell you this of you are able to bend or break tool steel or chromally you shouldn't be on that trike as it is being rode way too hard

**oscarmayer** · 03-09-2011, 04:28 PM

how much for 200x bolt? I'll work a deal out with you. I have a NEW in the plastic oem honda 1st gen 200x swingarm bolt. if you make me a tool steel one i'll let you use it for reference. reemmeber this is new in the bag. not rusted.

**SWIGIN** · 03-09-2011, 07:35 PM

Man, I keep forgetting about all the weird swing arm bolts. I can make one but I did not order any steel near large enough for the big end. Could you get me a quick diameter of the big end and I'll order some in. I will definetly need yours to look at, I havn't owned a 200x since around 1990.

Like I said earlier, till the end of the month, simple swinger bolts and front axles will be $35. More complex or stepped bolts/axles are $40.

**oscarmayer** · 03-10-2011, 11:35 AM

if you want, we can do a 2-for 1 trade. you can HAVE my new bolt in exchange for 2 machined ones.

deal?
yea let me get you the demsions.

**SWIGIN** · 03-10-2011, 01:20 PM

No thanks, I know where I can get my hands on a 200x bolt to measure.

**MagicJames** · 03-10-2011, 02:42 PM

I've got one for you, I want to get a longer swinger bolt for my 350x because of the gusset kit. Not sure how much longer... Maybe DC can chime in and tell me how much longer.

**Dirtcrasher** · 03-10-2011, 02:57 PM

^ Just add the thickness of the washers. There usually about .060 or a total of .125 (1/8th) of an inch longer.

I try to put thick washers on there. Do you have Bills kit? Just measure them up............

**MagicJames** · 03-10-2011, 03:34 PM

Yes i do, It's been sitting in my garage for ... ... ... 7 months or so, I'm trying to get my brother in law to weld them on for me so i can get rolling on my 350x project.

That's a good idea, maybe a solid 3/16 would be safe, as i'm gonna try to beef up this frame so i don't break as much stuff as i did last year

**Dirtcrasher** · 03-10-2011, 03:40 PM

Stock bolt may work. You'll just have to see how far it threads on and if it catches the "self locking nut portion" or Loctite it in if the whole nut threads on.........

You could stake the nut too if it fits.

Thread: Im finally ready to machine you new parts.

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