Just bought this

[Chickengizzard]

I just bought an 86 atc250sx for $400. So far I'm happy. It started first kick, went thru all the gears smoothly, no play in the back end. The front brakes are gone, the back brakes aren't working but almost all there, gas tank is painted and has a little surface rust inside. The fenders have seen better days, and the starter isn't working. What do you guys think?

[dcreel]

200X front end too... I would have bought it too.. Not bad..

[R-tifacts]

I think you got a good rider for a good price, run it!

[TheRealFatShady]

Tires look good, got a rear rack and 200x front end. Not bad. Could be better if it didn't have the problems you listed, but still a decent buy as it starts and runs.

[Jason125m]

Thats a huge score around here.

[Chickengizzard]

Well took it out after I checked fluids and greased it up and not so happy anymore. Was starting up a small hill that i had been up a couple times allready and something popped in the rearend. Gonna take it apart when I get some time off work.

[tri again]

oops.

Was it under hard acceleration?
Did it sound like a quick pop like a bolt sheared off? or did it
kinda grind to a halt.

If there is gear oil in the differential that doesn't look like chocolate milk(water)
nothing ever seems to go wrong with them.

U joints are also relatively failproof.
Never noticed grease fittings on them and advertised as maintain free.

Maybe a long shot due to your description of 'pop' but the hub splines have been known to spin out if they've been running loose.

Ring and pinion usually whine from bearing noise and get noticably sloppy long before
they take a flying leap.

You also say the swing arm bearings appear intact altho they can
throw off various alignment issues. they usually go bad and cause no other problems.

If it all runs good other than that, a fix will still have you under fair market value for one of those.

If you were closer, I'd be happy to look at it.

Does it try to go anywhere at all?
Still runs, goes into gear perfectly but goes nowhere?
any noise when you try that?

I know people upload videos but I'd like to find a way to upload simple sound files.

[Chickengizzard]

I was under hard acceleration when it happened. I put it in reverse and backed down off the hill only a few feet up it. Then put it back in 1st went about a foot and it locked up. Tried putting it in neutral and pushing it but it would lock up that way also. That's when I heard what sounded like something rattling like a nut in a can. So i went and got the truck so I could get it to the shop. It was getting late so I didn't mess with it. After work I tried to pinpoint where the sound is coming from. I'm pretty sure it's coming from the front of the shaft. I pulled the boot back and moved the trike forward in neutral, the shaft is moving back enough to show the splines and there is some kind of a ring that is really sloppy around the shaft. Is that normal? I'm not very familiar with shaft drive trikes but i think I will be in the next few weeks. Gonna start doing some research before I start getting my hands dirty. Thanks for the reply and giving me some things to look for. I'll start checking the other stuff you mentioned today after work. Oh and yeah I'm still pretty happy with the buy. Just was kinda upset yesterday.

[Chickengizzard]

Well I took the differential apart. The pinion bearing is trash. Seals are all bad and a few of the teeth on the ring gear are nicked up. The problem was the pieces off the ring gear digging into the case wall and locking it up. The oil looked old but not as bad as chocolate milk. My problem now is should I buy a whole new rearend for $$$? Or replace the bad gear, bearings, and seals for $$$? Oh and I don't have any of the special tools from the service manual.

[Trip]

400 ... thats a good buy. it moves...dont look bad. i would buy it for 400 anyday. mine was 300 and dont look that good lol.

[3WheelinMan]

I'd repair it with good used parts cheap from ebay or 3WW members and only buy new bearings and seals... you really don't want to know what a new rear end for one of these cost at the stealership!!!

[AtcFactoryRacer]

Looks like you got a better deal than i did, i bought this 85' for $200 bucks two weeks ago.....



It has a rusty dented tank, trashed-broken rear fender, cracked headlight, dry-rotted flat junk tires, I didnt find out until i got it home and tore it apart that the engine was locked up,the final drive bearings were sloppy and wore out, and the rear shoes were frozen to the drum, my only score was a good starter motor with a new brush plate and a good exhaust.....

In my eyes you got a hell of a deal at least you got to ride yours before it broke, mine is just for parts now....

[Nevkilahonda3]

Yeah a 250sx is cool but I personally would never buy any atc with a shaft my friend had a 250sx and no ramps(their heavy for a 3 wheeler) and that shaft has to have good up keep. Thats why I like the old
200e's chain drive not a 250 but thats okay. I had a 225 yamaha shaft(got it for free had no tires now I know why the guy gave it away) and not only did the shaft get messed up but the transmission is shot.

[bucko]

Ive never had a problem with the shaft drives or transmissions on them...There's not much to go wrong unless you are going nuts on it,jumping it and running it harder than it should be.

And im not sure what upkeep you mean?Ive done nothing to the shaft on my BR 250 the year and a half I have owned it and I can tell you neither has the previous owner who had it for 14 years.When I got it the oil in the rear end looked like sludge so I drained it,put some fresh in and its been perfect ever since.Not really much to mess up on a shaft drive...Im not just saying that because I own one now,I had a 200x for a few years and loved it too,wish I wouldn't have sold it.It never gave me problems either.

You don't really know how that 250sx was treated before you had it so you may want to look everything over

[AtcFactoryRacer]

Shaft drive weighs more but has more direct power since there is no slack created with suspension travel like in a chain drive. Shaft drive will last longer if you maintain it. You must religiously change your gear oil in the final drive unit!!! It only holds about a cup of oil so it gets milky fast if you ride through creeks, i change my gear oil every 3 good rides. SAE 80/90 wt gear oil is cheap like 10 bucks a gallon, and you will have enough to change the oil 16 times. A Lot cheaper than trashing the bearings and paying 100 bucks to rebuilt the final drive(only if there isnt hard part damage, it can get pricey then).....