I dont think you will have an issue with oil draining back but on first start up try not to rev it up for the first few seconds just to be sure . Theirs always oil in the cam valley so the head is no issue for oil loss .
I dont think you will have an issue with oil draining back but on first start up try not to rev it up for the first few seconds just to be sure . Theirs always oil in the cam valley so the head is no issue for oil loss .
78 atc 90/180cc Dickson Full Suspension
76 ATC90/180cc Nicholson
77 atc 90 Dickson Full Suspension
84 KLT 110/123cc Powroll Racer from 80s
87 atc 125m stock
84 atc 200x Curtis Sparks
84 atc 200x Powroll My race bike from 80's
83 atc70/108cc Powroll blue Xmas Special
81 atc185s HP-ATC full suspension
Performance Shop is Open PM me for Service
My Feedback http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ck+shortline10
thanks mike....It had occurred to me just then ....I used to build HDs and Triumphs that had isolated oil resevoir systems and sometimes they would sump when sitting and fill the crankcase with oil if the check balls inside the oil pump didn`t seat correctly or at all, then you get a half quart of oil blow out the vent on startup due to the cases being overfull.....i wasnt sure if the honda oil pumps had check balls to keep the flow one way
Ironchop, excellent work!
I am also skeptical whether the oil will flow back and level with the engine and had thoughts that the oil can hold up because the oil pump can block it up somehow, but I am wrong.
The Suzuki DR650 shares the same mounting like your set up, with the oil being pumped up entering from the bottom of the oil cooler, and out from the top of the cooler and into the header. The oil does flow back to the crank when the engine is cut off, when I pressed the oil hose to find it hollow. I believe the DR650 may have some scavenge left in the head and need not worry about cranking.
In your (our) case, maybe you can route the oil line from top-in to bottom-out, if pressure proves not an issue. Then, at the bottom-out, route the line upwards so each time you stop the engine, so the oil will maintain inside the cooler. When you wish to fully flush out the cooler's oil, you can simply release the routing down or unplug the hose if you don't mind the mess.
This is just my thoughts, and kindly correct me if they are wrong.
I am thinking of adding this in-line oil filter can be useful with the oil cooler http://tboltusa.com/store/trc-inline...ter-p-930.html
That inline filter is a good idea...I`m gonna look into that
the galley built into the head will keep the cam lobes lubed when you turn the motor over but it`s the journals I`m worried about going dry and they are what usually fails on the cam/head....I might install a small primer pump....thought of just pulling the plugwire to kick it thru w/o spark to prime the oil system first, then push on the wire and start but it would be hard not to overload the cylinder with fuel vapor before applying the spark...check ball valve inline is probably the best solution if this proves to be an issue
I figure after I get it hooked up, running, and properly filled with oil, I can shut it off and let it sit a couple days or so and then check the crankcase level again and if it is significantly higher, I`ll know it sumped when it sat
got it finished.....pics coming
cooler mounted fully after mockup....
Attachment 130966
Attachment 130967
motor installed.....time to plumb the cooler
Attachment 130968
Attachment 130969
last two....needs hose clamps but thats it....you get the picture
Im gonna add some clamps for the copper hardlines to keep them still and also rebend the lower outlet from the cooler to get it more inline tucked into the frame tube
i dont think you guys have to worry about the oil draining back. i have been running a very similiar setup on my warrior for 3 years and havent had an issue. think of a straw when you hold you finger over the the end and pull it out of a liquid.