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Thread: Pipe Design !!Pictures!! on page 4! Nasty fast.

  1. #31
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Wichita, Kansas
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    Wow, that really helps me figure out how to get everything line up well. I feel like all my ideas are being refined and will end up with better results.

    He came accross the same issue i was for seeing, rolling a long peice of steel into a cone. This is where i was going to divide it up into sections, possibly make slits in the template to roll parts of it individualy.

    I'm going to shoot him an email, see if he can make just cones and ship them. You know, take the work out lol. If he wants more than i want to pay though.. looks like im still rolling them. One of these days I'm going to invest in a slip roller, end up with pipes for everything. You'll see me weed wackin everything with a moster pipe on the dang thing. See mo peds doing twice the orginal speed. See me in a hospital for wrecking on a Go-ped(ok i got 1 with a pipe alread lol), it almost put me in a hospital lol.
    I just wanna go fast. If your not first, your last!!
    Reproducing the Tecate CDI. Contact me if you need one. I'm most accessible on FaceBook. You can find me on the 1984-1987 Kawasaki Tecate KXT250 Group.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Wichita, Kansas
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    I've out here now cuttin and testing and cutting and testing... So far Not so good news. No way in hell i can fit that pipe design into that bike, It's to far to soon. Looks like I'm either going to have to go for a lower RPM or higher BMEP. I should just make an out of frame pipe.

    Diving the problem area up into smaller segments and seeing if i can get around the issues. Stage 3 is the problem area. If i was at home, i would just recalculate a pipe, but I'm not:-\

    I'm using paper models btw, If my paper can fit the bike, then my metal should be able too.
    I just wanna go fast. If your not first, your last!!
    Reproducing the Tecate CDI. Contact me if you need one. I'm most accessible on FaceBook. You can find me on the 1984-1987 Kawasaki Tecate KXT250 Group.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Wichita, Kansas
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    WOOO I got my paper pipe to fit - I managed to get the correct specs too

    PAIN IN THE ASS lol

    I recoreded every angle of every cone. The reflecting cone needs a differnt angle, almost hitting the tire. From the end of the reflector to the grab bar.. I have maybe 6 inches. This is without a stinger.

    Looks like I'm going to try a stinger that is partial internal and have a silencer that sticks out next to my grab bar.
    I just wanna go fast. If your not first, your last!!
    Reproducing the Tecate CDI. Contact me if you need one. I'm most accessible on FaceBook. You can find me on the 1984-1987 Kawasaki Tecate KXT250 Group.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Wisconsin
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    1,141
    The partial stinger is a cool concept, quiets the pipe down and saves over all length. Good luck with the pipe rolling, post pic's when you get done. I hydro formed the pipes I made back in the day. SO far I have a gas blender with a tuned pipe, and a Yamaha QT-60 with a hydro formed pipe. Cool stuff.

    Here's my friend dumping the mix into the blender.

    YTM-200, Wheeling machine!!!






    1985 Honda 200x...


    ...Just a simple mild 200x

  5. #35
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    May 2010
    Location
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    Only thing i have access to that could come close to hydro forming is a pressure washer that does 1400PSI. I have a spare hose i can modify and put a check valve in it. I haven't looked much into hydro forming though. Care to elaborate?
    I just wanna go fast. If your not first, your last!!
    Reproducing the Tecate CDI. Contact me if you need one. I'm most accessible on FaceBook. You can find me on the 1984-1987 Kawasaki Tecate KXT250 Group.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Wisconsin
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    1,141
    Quote Originally Posted by RubberSalt View Post
    Only thing i have access to that could come close to hydro forming is a pressure washer that does 1400PSI. I have a spare hose i can modify and put a check valve in it. I haven't looked much into hydro forming though. Care to elaborate?

    That's what I used. I gas welded my pipes together in flats then welded pipe fittings on each end. I used the same thread fitting that is on the end of the pressure washer when you take the quick attach nozzel off. To keep things safe I elevated the pipe with one end fitting off so it would fill with water to remove the air. When there is no air in the pipe you are inflating there is no danger of it bursting and causing harm because water doesn't compress like air. Even to inflate the little pipe the pressure washer was more than sufficient.

    The only advise I have for doing this is add some extra material for welding on the edges, when you gas weld the sheet metal you don't need much filler if you clamp everything tight.
    YTM-200, Wheeling machine!!!






    1985 Honda 200x...


    ...Just a simple mild 200x

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Moncton, NB
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    106

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Wisconsin
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    1,141

    Good links BGP. That's exactly how I made my pipes.
    YTM-200, Wheeling machine!!!






    1985 Honda 200x...


    ...Just a simple mild 200x

  9. #39
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Wichita, Kansas
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    Doesn't look to bad, I'd have to make it in 2-3 segments I'm guessing. This bike has a nice weird curve right after you pass the engine.

    I took my YZ125 pipe today, measured it. Total length was somewhere in the 810mm range. The stinger was 22.3mm wide...

    Well that jogged my memory a little bit. Page 1 of this thread, I ran some numbers, real close to my actual data. The tuned length was 1035mm with a 22.2mm stinger. Being i had to chop the header pipe on the YZ pipe.. I decided to see if it would fit.

    The YZ exhaust fitting, thing that goes over the flange, needs opened up about 1mm. I cut and shaped the header a little bit, made it rounder(dented up, why i own it lol). Reshaped it a little, got it to fit the bike much better. I took the rest of the pipe and added 2 sections of metal to lengthen it. So far I've added 140mm and have 1-2 segments left. Then i got to chop the reflector and change the angle. Right now, as it stands, the stinger hits the tire, and the tip of the reflector almost does also. Curse that weird bend!

    For the 2 segments i added. I managed to roll them by hand until the edges met. I ARC welded(all i got over there) together. When the edges of th emetal meet up right, i don't blow through, otherwise it does. If it blows through.. damn, i fill the hole in then grind the weld out and make the inside smooth. Took them out back to an old VW Thing rear end, stuck them over some pipes coming out and ed them round. I was impressed with how round they got for being so crudely done. They matched up perfectly. I feel alot more confident at making this pipe. The 18 gauge really wasn't that difficult to bend, but i man handle stuff a lot lol.

    It'll be interesting to see what a YZ125 pipe that has been beat to hell converted over to fit a YT175. The fattest part of the YZ pipe was 113mm. Metal is about 1mm thick. When i was fixing the header pipe, some old carbon fell out of it, damn near 5mm thick!! probably stuck in all the dents lol.

    When I do the tuned pipe, Should i use oxy/act or mig+argon... or that arc welder lol. I don't care if the outside is ugly, as long as the inside is pretty
    I just wanna go fast. If your not first, your last!!
    Reproducing the Tecate CDI. Contact me if you need one. I'm most accessible on FaceBook. You can find me on the 1984-1987 Kawasaki Tecate KXT250 Group.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Wichita, Kansas
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    Well, after reentering data, and skewing the numbers a hair. I got my 'new' pipe . Instead of the 1327sq mm of exhaust port., I'm saying i have 1200. That gives me %10 less surface area. I also got a longer tuned length on it by getting a higher bmep, 9.10. Temps still come out to 480, which doesn't sound to bad. Now for cheating, i need to have a wider stinger still.

    Program says i need 21.9mm stinger with the less exhaust port. I say it needs a 22.9mm. I reentered data for the smaller exhaust and for where it should be. for the BMEP to be at 9.1, i need a stinger of 22.9mm

    How far in does the stinger need to go? I've never looked into internal stingers.
    I just wanna go fast. If your not first, your last!!
    Reproducing the Tecate CDI. Contact me if you need one. I'm most accessible on FaceBook. You can find me on the 1984-1987 Kawasaki Tecate KXT250 Group.

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Moncton, NB
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    106
    You're starting to scare me again with talk of building pipes via stick welder (SMAW). TIG (GTAW) is my preference but oxy acet is the same basic principle; it's a heat source.

    For the stinger, call around and ask for some " 1x.049 " A519 or A513 tubing... that's a little thicker than 1mm wall and has a 22.91mm ID. About the stinger, I once had a set of Microns and the stingers were in by around 6~7" ( plus the silencers ).

  12. #42
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Wichita, Kansas
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    I know, I just couldn't believe i was about to get it to work with a stick welder lol. But I'm pretty sure I'll end up using a mig with an argon bottle, maybe oxy acet(gonna have to brush up on it) been 6 years since I've welded with gas.

    Yeah, i was gonna just buy some tubing for the stinger. Lots of air craft places around here in Wichita KS
    I just wanna go fast. If your not first, your last!!
    Reproducing the Tecate CDI. Contact me if you need one. I'm most accessible on FaceBook. You can find me on the 1984-1987 Kawasaki Tecate KXT250 Group.

  13. #43
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    May 2010
    Location
    Wichita, Kansas
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    Oh yeah, i forgot to mention. I went ahead and mapped my ports, calculated actual area size - use arc lengths and what not, atleast as acuratly as i could, using calipers on printer paper... lol. Anyways, my total area came out to be roughly 1200^2 mm.. I wasn't to far off by estimating a memory.. right ?:-p lol

    I'm glade i checked. I was going to use 1327.966 for my exhaust port area. That pretty big >.< I was only 10 percent off lol. This actualy makes me happy. Means i can redo the pipe design AGAIN!! and it should be skinnier. I need to shoot for 39.098 diameter with that program.
    I just wanna go fast. If your not first, your last!!
    Reproducing the Tecate CDI. Contact me if you need one. I'm most accessible on FaceBook. You can find me on the 1984-1987 Kawasaki Tecate KXT250 Group.

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Moncton, NB
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    Here's a video I was going point you to with regards to cone rolling, starts off well but ends up being kind of rough looking. Entertaining if nothing else.
    http://www.youtube.com/user/GPapesh?.../0/xw1Y0IZz15Q

    BTW, got pics of any "paper doll" yet?

  15. #45
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Wichita, Kansas
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    Here is the latest and great and hopefully potential finaly design.


    Comes with the extra needed length on the header pipe. A hair bit more power at lower RPM. Tuned to run exhaust gases at 477 Celsius according to Blair's formula of tuned length.

    This is the paper doll i made, modeled after the pipe on page 1 with the 39.9mm diameter. It was a VERY tight fit that bearly cleared everything. Wish the header pipe was a few cm longer.. Oh wait that 1 above is :-D



    That is the stock pipe next to it. The first 8 inches of the stock pipe are nice - then thats it lol. I don't have pictures of the YZ pipe yet, I'll try to grab some later.
    I just wanna go fast. If your not first, your last!!
    Reproducing the Tecate CDI. Contact me if you need one. I'm most accessible on FaceBook. You can find me on the 1984-1987 Kawasaki Tecate KXT250 Group.

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