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Thread: Body Work - Advice Needed, Please!

  1. #1
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    Jun 2010
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    Body Work - Advice Needed, Please!

    I have started a US90 project and am tackling the cosmetics first. The stripping is going good as well as the small Bondo repir on the gas tank...I think, opinions? Here's the questions; Can I use a spray bomb primer on this before it heads off to paint or do I have to use a primer from a gun to complete the work. Is the same primer used for the metal parts and the fibreglass or are they different? Any thoughts/advice?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails US90 Build 002.jpg   US90 Build 010.jpg  
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    1970/71 US 90 (Aquarius Blue)
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    1972/73 US 90 Camo Project (110 Big Bore)
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    1982 ATC 70
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    1973 ATC 70

    1965 Marketeer 3 Wheel Golf Cart with 1986 Honda 250 drivetrain

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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
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    Brazil, Indiana
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    I would do a very light coat of spray bomb primer just to keep it from flash rusting and have your painter take it off and put the proper primer on it.
    my feedback thread http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...-hoosierlogger


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  3. #3
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    Dec 2009
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    You need to use a etching primer for bare metal. Helps prevent rust and promotes some adhesion. They make some aerosol primers and etch that are body shop grade ( the price reflects that too! ) If your having someone else to the bodywork on it id let them go over it so they know what there getting into. As someone that has done body work as a career I know a painter wouldnt want to just paint someone elses body work and have his name on it if the body work wasnt done correctly,
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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    NEPA
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    I'm NO body guy . But HAVE painted quite a bit. Last job I did. A Gorgeous 04 Ram Quad cab. I primered it in Rust oleum spray bomb,,then PPG base clear.. turned out SHOW quality w very little wet sanding and buffing! And still looks great today! My .02.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by swampthang View Post
    You need to use a etching primer for bare metal. Helps prevent rust and promotes some adhesion. They make some aerosol primers and etch that are body shop grade ( the price reflects that too! ) If your having someone else to the bodywork on it id let them go over it so they know what there getting into. As someone that has done body work as a career I know a painter wouldnt want to just paint someone elses body work and have his name on it if the body work wasnt done correctly,
    Amen!! the painter can not cover up or prevent the mistakes of the body man. When I was in school for auto body repair the instructor told us there is no such thing as a prefect paint job. A minor oversight on anyone's part can pooch the whole thing. It could be as simple as a drop of over spray from wd-40 or armorall or anything that could make a fish eye or orange peel or even cause the paint to lift off of the metal.
    my feedback thread http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...-hoosierlogger


    TRIKEFEST 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16

    Current rides
    Taurus 650 (green)
    85 250es big red
    83 ALT50 (5 year old daughters)
    82 ALT50
    82 ALT50
    84 atc 70 stroked big bore 90 STILL in progress.
    71 QA50
    93 TRX 300 FW

    Quote Originally Posted by fabiodriven View Post
    Ya'll are the biggest bunch of whining b!tches I've seen in my entire life.
    You might be strong as an ox, but without a cart you are just a big dumb animal.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Walters, OK
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    104
    honestly, the way we tend to rub paint off out trikes i would use a good thick sealer on the metals.. using a rattlecan primer wont hurt as long as its not the cheap crap and you do a couple light coats.. the last time i painted fiberglass i used a lacquer primer on it and it worked just fine
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by swampthang View Post
    If your having someone else to the bodywork on it id let them go over it so they know what there getting into.
    This is the best advice. Check with your painter.

    The problem with spray bomb primers is you don't know how they will react with the top coats. They may be fine. The may pop right away. They may pop in a year.

    The best thing to do is spray a quality epoxy primer over the bare metal/bodywork. It will work fine on the fiberglass as well. Then go from there. You can use a 2K filler primer or go right to base coat.

    I did my 90/100 hybrid this way. SPI white epoxy primer over the metal/bondo/fiberglass, TCP white poly base, SPI clear. No filler primer or other 2k primer in between.

    The spray bomb is a risk. But, check with your painter.

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    I would pay your painter/body guy to do all of it... They dont want to work with the "unknowns"...
    No trikes. Too old, too crippled. Unless I find one I can't live without!
    "You cant fix stupid" ~ Ron White
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