200x timing. Pulse generator 180 degrees?

[Tippmann98]

I'm setting the timing on my 1984 200x and the service manual directions are kinda vague. I lined up the cam sprocket with the "t" mark and the directions say turn the flywheel counter clockwise to the "f" mark and set the pulse generator index marks. If I understand this correctly you turn the flywheel basically a full turn which spins the cam 180 degrees when you set the pulse generator. I did it this way and can't get the bike to fire now. Just wanna know if I did that correctly so I can have peace of mind and troubleshoot other areas. I do have spark and fuel to the cylinder. Thanks

[tri again]

I think they want the engine to 'turn' in the direction it runs
to take out the slack of the timing chain.
Turning it backwards would undoubtedly change the cam to crank position
due to chain slop.

and yes, I agree that the cam can be
180* off 'fire' on the crank.

I would like to know too, so please post what you find.

Thanks

[Tippmann98]

So I'm correct with what I did?

[tri again]

Not sure which direction the engine turns when it runs, cw or ccw.
Seems like they want you to turn the engine a full turn to take the
slop out of the timing chain, confusing the issue of 'real' timing.

Let's try to figure this out.
The crank hits TDC twice as often as the cam marks.
Spark is tossed out when the cam is at tdc (or a couple degrees before)
and every Other time the crank hits tdc...or every 4th.
My dog is looking at me funny because I'm talking to myself counting on my fingers
so there's a good chance I'm wrong about that too, but you get the idea.
Cam lobes want to be both pointing UP, both to be adjusted and to fire.
as I understand it all.

Did it run before you moved the pulse generator?
Did you move the pulse gen just a tiny bit or a whole lot?
like a full half spin? IF that's even possible.
You may be able to see some wear marks or some other
disturbed dust indicator to get it back where it was.

What were the symptoms that made you want to check the timing?

I see somewhere in ohio is in a dead heat with 7" of rain this morning?
Yupp, weatherchannel is showing major storms from Toledo
blasting eastward towards Cleveburg.

[Tippmann98]

Yes it ran but smoked bad so I tore it apart and rebuilt it and didn't use new gaskets as I was trying to keep this a budget build. I put it back together, re-timed it and it ran for a few minutes around the yard and I blew the head gasket. Tore it apart again to replace the gaskets and putting it back together now and the wording of the manual is confusing me on what I did last time. I don't remember rotating the crank one revolution and then setting the pulse generator timing. So however I did it last time it ran. When I took the cam chain off I put a mark exactly where the "O" on the cam sprocket went so I wouldn't mess that up. It has to be my ignition timing that is off.



In the attached picture you can see where the manual is a bit misleading. If I turn the crankshaft counterclockwise, then it is turning almost a complete full turn til it reaches the "f" mark. Therefore the timing mark on the pulse rotor is pointing down (180 degrees) from the index mark on the pulse generator. It says to rotate the base plate to line them up but the base plate will only rotate a half inch or so. It won't rotate 180 degrees to the bottom. This leads me to believe I need to rotate the crank CLOCKWISE to the "f" mark which is about a quarter inch from the "t" mark which would give plenty of room for the base plate to rotate. Is it possible that the manual is wrong? Thanks in advance for all the help! You guys sure know your stuff and this is a great place to come to get my toys running!

And we had a heat index of 115 yesterday. It's been toasty around here.

[tri again]

Clear as mud.

I bet you are just close as can be so don't second guess yourself too much.
I would want to know which way the engine runs normally, cw or ccw.

Betting that they want the engine turned the direction it runs to make sure the timing chain is
pulling tight on the 'drive' side.
kinda like the way we spin combination locks a few times before we try the
alternating combo.
My vote is that if it ran where it was, leave it.

I'll honestly have to go look at one tomorrow and see exactly what you're up against.
Pretty sure there's one half apart near the tractor.

or someone will beat me to it.

[Tuff]

a rebuild without new gaskets? waste of time. and gasket kits are CHEAP Insurance on a rebuild.
top end kit for16.95 with 6.50 shipping.....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda...Q5fAccessories

complete kit for 31.95 + 6.50 shipping....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda...Q5fAccessories


that wouldn't fit in the budget?

[hoosierlogger]

I think he rebuilt it and used the old gaskets to see it it made a difference. He did say then he tore it down to replace the gaskets and now it wont run.


I rebuilt the top end on my 84 200x and couldn't get it to fire even though all of the marks are lined up PERFECT. It would up being off 1 tooth and it starts on the first kick every time. Might be something to look into.

Also make sure you put the pulse rotor on the base plate correctly. There are punch marks on it that need to line up to have it firing in the right place.

[Dirtcrasher]

Well, now you can't rule out the gaskets can you? and no gaskets had to be removed to change pulse generator timing.......

Awesome, used gaskets, hows that budget working out??

[Tippmann98]

Well, now you can't rule out the gaskets can you? and no gaskets had to be removed to change pulse generator timing.......

Awesome, used gaskets, hows that budget working out??

I don't understand what you mean. I didn't tear it apart just to change the timing. I did it to replace the gaskets. That was in my above post ^ ^

hoosierlogger - That might be something to look into. Thanks for the suggestion