Getting my project Tri-Z ready for the weekend

[stevensj13]

As some of you know there will be a meetup at Busco Beach in Goldsboro, NC this weekend. I picked up a Tri-Z yesterday that needed some love, but overall in nice shape. The clutch isn't working for some reason, and it sounds like its running with the choke on. I am going to adjust the carb and mess around with that, but what should I do about the clutch? I talked to a local guy on the phone who used to restore Tri-Z's (and still has 2 of the 5) and he has a bunch of used parts. He has a set of clutch plates from a running, working bike that he would sell me for $20 which beats the $173 for the only set I could find online (fleabay). He has enough parts to build a whole nother Z so I think if I want this bike ready for the weekend then this is the guy to talk to! Does anyone have any experience on replacing clutch plates on a Tri-Z, and could I make a new clutch cover gasket from gasket paper? Thanks guys

[Mosh]

Any 83-87 YZ 250 cluctch kit will work. They have EBC kits on ebay for 75$ friction and steels. I dont care for those kits all to much, but they work and are affordable.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...All-Categories

Your running condition? You said it runs like the choke is on? So does that mean a hi idle? If so, you may want to take the time to find out if you have an air leak causing a hi idle and lean condition, so the top end does not go down on you. If it is burrbling and not revving out, check to make sure you dont have fuel leaking past the pump into the vacuum line at the base of the jug which would make it over rich.

The primary issue with clutch plate replacement is, proper lifter settings need to be made before you put the cover back on. You will also want to check your waterpump set-up as they fail very often with the pastic blade falling off the shaft, and this would be the time to fix it why you are there. That happens alot and melts alot of topends on the Z.

Search usename "oscarmyer" or I think "MonroeMike" on here. They have free links to manuals that will help you with the clutch change.
You could use bulk gasket material for the clutch gasket, but cutting that properly would take hours and be quite chore. you will also need a water pump gasket and small kicker cover gasket, Becuase if you leave any of the gaskets out and use sealer, you will have bind-up issues on the Z with out the proper gaskets.
I use to stock the clutch cover gaskets, but I think I am out right now. I have a ton of the smaller gaskets for the other covers on that side. I can sell you all of them if you need them. I have them made locally with a machine.
Things to watch for when pulling the clutch cover......

You have to remove the small kicker cover first. There is a hidden bolt under there for the clucth cover itself.
There are also some shims for those kicker gears. Keep and eye out they dont fall off and get lost.
There is a very small washer that sets in the case for the waterpump shaft. That almost always gets forgotten about or lost also when you pull the cover. Watch for it.
You will have to remove your right side footpeg and bracket and brake arm to get the cover off. All to often the bolts wipe the threads out for the footpegs at the frame, so inspect those holes carefully befor reassembley.
Any milky colored oil will indicate that the waterpump seal is bad and this is a good time to replace that also.


IMO, I know you want to make this ride, but maybe you could ride something else and take the time to dial in this Z so nothing else fights you or gets damaged.
The rounding up of parts and other stuff you need, may fight you to get this done properly before the ride, and cause more repairs and $$.

[Kfx-xc-racer88]

EBC dirt racer clutch kits are shite!!!!!! i had one fail in 10 minutes riding and killed my kfx 450r motor!!!! just don't buy one!

[stevensj13]

Any 83-87 YZ 250 cluctch kit will work. They have EBC kits on ebay for 75$ friction and steels. I dont care for those kits all to much, but they work and are affordable.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...All-Categories

Your running condition? You said it runs like the choke is on? So does that mean a hi idle? If so, you may want to take the time to find out if you have an air leak causing a hi idle and lean condition, so the top end does not go down on you. If it is burrbling and not revving out, check to make sure you dont have fuel leaking past the pump into the vacuum line at the base of the jug which would make it over rich.

The primary issue with clutch plate replacement is, proper lifter settings need to be made before you put the cover back on. You will also want to check your waterpump set-up as they fail very often with the pastic blade falling off the shaft, and this would be the time to fix it why you are there. That happens alot and melts alot of topends on the Z.

Search usename "oscarmyer" or I think "MonroeMike" on here. They have free links to manuals that will help you with the clutch change.
You could use bulk gasket material for the clutch gasket, but cutting that properly would take hours and be quite chore. you will also need a water pump gasket and small kicker cover gasket, Becuase if you leave any of the gaskets out and use sealer, you will have bind-up issues on the Z with out the proper gaskets.
I use to stock the clutch cover gaskets, but I think I am out right now. I have a ton of the smaller gaskets for the other covers on that side. I can sell you all of them if you need them. I have them made locally with a machine.
Things to watch for when pulling the clutch cover......

You have to remove the small kicker cover first. There is a hidden bolt under there for the clucth cover itself.
There are also some shims for those kicker gears. Keep and eye out they dont fall off and get lost.
There is a very small washer that sets in the case for the waterpump shaft. That almost always gets forgotten about or lost also when you pull the cover. Watch for it.
You will have to remove your right side footpeg and bracket and brake arm to get the cover off. All to often the bolts wipe the threads out for the footpegs at the frame, so inspect those holes carefully befor reassembley.
Any milky colored oil will indicate that the waterpump seal is bad and this is a good time to replace that also.


IMO, I know you want to make this ride, but maybe you could ride something else and take the time to dial in this Z so nothing else fights you or gets damaged.
The rounding up of parts and other stuff you need, may fight you to get this done properly before the ride, and cause more repairs and $$.

Thanks, this post really helped! How much would you want for the kicker, water pump, and clutch cover (when available) gaskets? I am on the hunt for those at this point, and my guess is that I won't have this bike ready for the weekend, which is a bummer.

[El Camexican]

I know you want to make this ride, but maybe you could ride something else and take the time to dial in this Z so nothing else fights you or gets damaged.
The rounding up of parts and other stuff you need, may fight you to get this done properly before the ride, and cause more repairs and $$.

You younger guys may want to print that part out and tape it inside your tool boxes.

[stevensj13]

Hey guys. Just an update. I went out and took most of the plastics off, and took some time with the bike and told it how much I loved it. And then I got the long screwdriver out and tuned the carb. I got it almost to the sweet spot. it revs up, needs an idle adustment though. Awesome bike, I am loving the sound of it! Sounds like a banshee! After some though I have decided to take my time with this bike and not rush it. I am awaiting some gaskets and buying a slightly used clutch basket, pressure plate, inner hub, and plates. Not too shabby

[El Camexican]

Hey guys. Just an update. I went out and took most of the plastics off, and took some time with the bike and told it how much I loved it. And then I got the long screwdriver out and tuned the carb. I got it almost to the sweet spot. it revs up, needs an idle adustment though. Awesome bike, I am loving the sound of it! Sounds like a banshee! After some though I have decided to take my time with this bike and not rush it. I am awaiting some gaskets and buying a slightly used clutch basket, pressure plate, inner hub, and plates. Not too shabby

Good man! You're gonna love that thing!

[stevensj13]

Good man! You're gonna love that thing!

I bet! Just hearing it fire up and rev made my heart race. The bike itself cosmetically is great too. no scratches on the original gold color rims, and the front fender/headlight cover are in great shape. If I had a brand new seat and a brand new set of rear fenders this bike would look brand new! It was a garage bike back in the day for sure!

[Mosh]

Thanks, this post really helped! How much would you want for the kicker, water pump, and clutch cover (when available) gaskets? I am on the hunt for those at this point, and my guess is that I won't have this bike ready for the weekend, which is a bummer.

I can get you all the paper gaskets for the bottom end right side for 32$ shipped.

I am glad it is running good for you. Z's are a little more complex than other machines, but not as bad as a T-3..LOL..J/k Tecate guys.
It is best just to take your time with them and get them in the sweet zone, and they are reliable once all that is done.
I remember scrambling for a big ride when I was younger, throwing something together, just to find myself broke down half way through the day. It sucked, and age and wisdom took over at some point. Now I prep my stuff weeks before a big ride.
We can help you with that seat too.

Let me know on the gaskets. I can get that clutch gasket cut this week for you.
I need to get some cut anyway.

[Mosh]

EBC dirt racer clutch kits are shite!!!!!! i had one fail in 10 minutes riding and killed my kfx 450r motor!!!! just don't buy one!

The only issues I have had with EBC kits are, 1) they tend to stick together for a few minutes when they sit for weeks on end, and 2)I had some friction plates brake and rattle on my big bore Z engine one time. I can see them wiping out a 4 stroke engine though if they did that, but 2 stroke wise, nothing ever blew my engine.
And they only have had these problems as of late. I still am running a EBC replacement kit in my BB with no issues...Yet.
I ran them in my stocker for a few years. And I also run them in a Banshee. Just that damn sticking issue plagues that bike also. But yeah I concure, they do have issues, that is why I said I dont care for them in the first post.
Stock is the way to go if you have the coin.

[El Camexican]

I bet! Just hearing it fire up and rev made my heart race. The bike itself cosmetically is great too. no scratches on the original gold color rims, and the front fender/headlight cover are in great shape. If I had a brand new seat and a brand new set of rear fenders this bike would look brand new! It was a garage bike back in the day for sure!

The Yamaha yellow and black combo is and will always be in my opinion the nicest factory colours that were ever offered and green is a distant second. Not sure how you are fixed for cash, but there are still some NOS rear fenders on ebay for between $200 & $300 and Mosh does seats. As far as what a crisp 2 stroke can do to your heart, I've found that it takes at least 150HP out of an inline 4 to come close to what a YZ80 can do for my ticker!

[stevensj13]

Hey guys, does anyone know how the clutch cable is held in? All I see on mine is a U shaped slot open at the top on my crank case and my cable is effortlessly lifted out of there. Is there a clip or something? Could someone post a pic of the clip? Thanks

[Mosh]

There is a small retainer that goes over the cable and slides into the U shaped slot on the case.
This ebay link shoes the retainer on the cable.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1985-...item415b30c712
At last check that part from yamaha was like 12 bucks, and may even be discontinued now.
If I were you I would hit the buy it now on this and and get a extra cable in the deal.

[stevensj13]

There is a small retainer that goes over the cable and slides into the U shaped slot on the case.
This ebay link shoes the retainer on the cable.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1985-...item415b30c712
At last check that part from yamaha was like 12 bucks, and may even be discontinued now.
If I were you I would hit the buy it now on this and and get a extra cable in the deal.

Good idea. Thanks for the link Also, what year yz250 clutch setups (basket, hub, plates, pressure plate, ect.) would fit my tri z? I have a yz motor with a blown crank but good clutch setup.

[stevensj13]

UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE! I treated the bike well and it treated me well, went for my first test ride! Shes leaking a lil oil from the kick start cover/plate thing but not enough to worry about. I am buying a carb, radiator hose (leaks coolant from cracked hose), clutch cable clip, and some other little odds and ends from someone tomorrow, should have the bike ready for busco. I feel lucky!