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Thread: Flushing Crankcase. What's better and how long?

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by DasUberKraut View Post
    Thanks everyone for all the info.

    I wasn't talking about turn of the century oil having parafin in it. I was talking about today's CHEAP dollar store oil that too many people use.
    Even cheap dollar store oil is manufactured to the quality standards that the expensive oils are..read the back of the bottle. It's just the dollar store stuff might also contain purified recycled automotive oil. This is becoming a common practice..

    Oil refinement processes were improved to remove the undesirable elements of the crude such as bitumen and parafin decades ago.

    You've been mis-informed.
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  2. #17
    audioworks04's Avatar
    audioworks04 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    If you are really that worried about what is inside of your engine, then the only logical and "right" thing to do in my opinion is to crack the cases and pull each part out and clean them in a parts washer. Then replace all gaskets and seals and atleast rering the piston. This will eliminate the smoking that you are worried about in your 20+ year old machines, most of which are long overdue for a rebuild. There is nothing that is going to actually clean something like a good scrub, you can see this by thinking of a drive through car wash vs. a hand wash, which one works better? I have however heard of people running used atf to clean their diesel engines before tear down. Its your machine, do with it as you will, but this is my advice, if you are going to do something, do it right and do it once.

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  3. #18
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    This should give everyone something to do for a while

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by audioworks04 View Post
    If you are really that worried about what is inside of your engine, then the only logical and "right" thing to do in my opinion is to crack the cases and pull each part out and clean them in a parts washer. Then replace all gaskets and seals and atleast rering the piston.
    Man after my own heart! The only way you could have been said better is it you'd used spell check A teardown is the ONLY way to truly know your ride and to make sure you didn't buy something that was flushed with gas every few months.

  5. #20
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    I wish I could afford a rebuild right now. For the record...I've never washed a vehicle that I've owned. I don't see a point. LOL.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
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    hey, my 2 cents, some of the engines that were stored with nasty oil in them may have carbon locked rings.
    these may be helped by an oil additive. I have used marvel mystery oil for some of these with good results.
    it should be left in or used for more than one oil change. just remember that atv engines do not use as much oil as larger engines, so
    don't use the whole bottle. use common sense in large doses.
    one cylinder is not enough!!

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by DasUberKraut View Post
    For the record...I've never washed a vehicle that I've owned. I don't see a point. LOL.
    Hell has a special place for people like you!!!

  8. #23
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    Yeah I know I'm already going to Hell...might as well go for broke right! LOL.

    As for my 125m. I'm thinking since the oil only has less than a few hours of run time on it. I will just drain about 1/3 of it out and run some Seafoam til the next change.

    Can anyone tell me where this centrifugal filter is located? Most likely behind the clutch pack by the oil pump?

    I know the manual says it holds just over a quart after draining. I keep reading that people only put a quart in and not the extra 1/4 of a quart it says it can hold. What's the reasoning behind this?

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by DasUberKraut View Post
    Yeah I know I'm already going to Hell...might as well go for broke right! LOL.

    As for my 125m. I'm thinking since the oil only has less than a few hours of run time on it. I will just drain about 1/3 of it out and run some Seafoam til the next change.

    Can anyone tell me where this centrifugal filter is located? Most likely behind the clutch pack by the oil pump?

    I know the manual says it holds just over a quart after draining. I keep reading that people only put a quart in and not the extra 1/4 of a quart it says it can hold. What's the reasoning behind this?
    I don't know your motor, or exactly where your clutch(s) are located, but over filling oil in any crankcase or transmission a bad thing to do. It can cause seals to leak and in some cases lower performance if the added amount starts splashing up under the piston too much. There is a reason for vents, windage trays and dipsticks. Your crankcase needs air space the same way a condom needs an air pocket at the tip to work properly.

  10. #25
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    I understand about over filling El C. Are people saying Honda exaggerated the proper ammount of oil that should be used? 1 quart is sufficient for use?
    I was just wondering. My motor seemed to be running hot the last time I had it out...but I just shrugged it off because it was a 95 degree day so I just parked it and quit riding it.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by DasUberKraut View Post
    I understand about over filling El C. Are people saying Honda exaggerated the proper ammount of oil that should be used? 1 quart is sufficient for use?
    I was just wondering. My motor seemed to be running hot the last time I had it out...but I just shrugged it off because it was a 95 degree day so I just parked it and quit riding it.
    So what does it have for determining the oil level, site bolt, window, dip stick? Whichever it is I'd stick to it. Unless there was a notice that went out to the dealers, or owners stating there was a problem with the oil levels I'd go with whatever it has.

  12. #27
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    dip stick.

  13. #28
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    Used to deal with that question all the time... The answer is that people don't drain the oil when hot and don't drain it for a long enough time. On any vertical motor Honda makes, a good rule of thumb is that when it begins that fast drip you have at least a half quart left.

    New Honda atvs will hide over a quart if you cut it off while dripping.

    Idle in place for 10-15 minutes if you can't ride it.

    I would never put gas in a crankcase, too many rubber seals that could bloat. They are fuel resistant, but that would constantly worry me.

  14. #29
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    White? smoke?
    Any chance the kids stuck a garden hose in the exhaust when it got washed?
    What color is unburned fuel?
    Crankcase vent?
    I read in the (250) manual that there is a drain PLUG on some breather tube thing but
    (typically) there was no other mention of it, like WHAT is is, where exactly or why.

    Same info dispersion as the centrifugal oil filter.
    Seems like that topic is in the engine rebuild section as opposed to the
    periodic maintenance chapter.

    What color is unburned oil. say, if it was sucking oil past the valve guides or valve seals
    and not burning it.?

  15. #30
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    I've seen "modified" dipsticks, where owners are dumb and replace with one from another bike or snap the tip off.

    Drain your oil properly and put in the recommended amount. All oil amounts listed by Honda have been correct in my experience. Any time they are anal enough to where they say 3.12 quarts on bikes, I'm sure they know what it needs.

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