250es starter

[liltony910]

My 250es burns the brushes inside the starter. What could be the problem?

[tri again]

You mean like smoke you can see and smell?
Did it ever work right?

Too much carbon dust or marginal wires shorting out stuff inside the starter?

I'd guess a bad ground but those things are bolted to the engine.

My last trip through a starter, I bought brushes for 30 bucks
but whole new starters are under 50 these days.

[dougspcs]

By "burns the brushes", you mean 'I have put four sets in and it fried them all' or just that it cooked the set that are in there now?

Have you rebuilt this starter? Does you BR need alot of cranking to get going and possibly have a running issue that is causing you to overwork your starter?.

You ask specific tech help here you need to supply more information!!! You're not giving us anything to work with.

[liltony910]

I rebuilt the starter a while back and it stoped working. When i open the starter all i found was carbon dust and the brushes were gone. It usually takes two or three kicks to start.

[tri again]

"they", at the starter shop say that the commutator,
or whatever the row of brass pieces that the brushes ride against,
need to be sanded, polished or machined.
Usually with a slight 'stepdown' in the direction of rotation so that the brushes don't get
chewed up.
I had some bad motors that weren't right and those spaces would fill with carbon dust and PoP every once in a while
blowing the dust out by shorting across.
Those were quiet little motors so you could hear it.
Manufacturer admitted design flaw and recalled them all.

Glad your engine starts almost instantly.
The manual says to run the starter in 5 second increments or something like that.

We have a Special problem with our workers that will run the starter for 1/2 minute because they forgot they used the kill switch
to shut them off.
Too bad the starters run with the kill switch off.
Ahh well, redesign time.

I found that new starters were like 20 bucks more than just the brushes and end plate.