How old are your crank seals.! way to tell if they are worn or bad is your flywheel cover will smell like raw gas.On the clutch side if your seal is bad it will suck tranny fluid in and your exhaust will smell bad. Like burnt rotten fish.
Power User
Got the holeshot
How old are your crank seals.! way to tell if they are worn or bad is your flywheel cover will smell like raw gas.On the clutch side if your seal is bad it will suck tranny fluid in and your exhaust will smell bad. Like burnt rotten fish.
250r rules
Power User
Teaching quads a lesson
its makeing 175psi on compression specs in the book is 170 to 199 so thats good...now for the air screw mixture i have messed with that but i turned it all the way in and it wanted to die...i put it back to specs in the book because i didnt know that method you described...if when i turned it in and it wanted to die does that sound like an air leak? i believe the crank bearings and seal around 4 to 5 years old...i also have no strange smells comeing from the exhaust just blue smoke...the blue smoke almost completly clears up when im running it...but always tends to get alot smokier at idal...does any of this info help?Originally Posted by xman2rman
I agree with Steve, you need to do a leak down test and a compression test if you haven't already. I just built a leak down tested and I'm still chasing leaks! The first on was the spark plug of all things, I had to loosen and tighten several times and actually had to tighten up more then I liked to get it to seal. My cases were also leaking... you'll get bubbles from the crank case vent on it. I got lucky and was able to tighten the two case bolts behind the flywheel/stator and it stopped. I still have a slow leak and have a fly wheel puller and new seals on order. Also, without going back and reading 3 pages, is your air/fuel screw doing anything when you adjust it? Try this if you haven't already: put a new plug in, set the air/fuel screw at 1.5 turns out, warm it up, get the idle set, slowly turn the air/fuel clockwise... the rpms should drop and the engine may die. Back it out and crank it back up, now start slowly turning the air/fuel counter clockwise until you get the highest RPM's then turn it back 1/4 to 1/2 turn clockwise. This should be real close for the air/fuel circuit and shouldn't be fouling plugs. IF... the carb WILL NOT adjust like I described, you have an air leak! I really don't think you have an ignition problem... Good luck!
current rides
82' ATC110
85' ATC310R
85' ATC250R
85' ATC250ES
16' brute force 750
Power User
Teaching quads a lesson
everytime i start this bike now i get a thick cloud of blue smoke for about 30 second to a minute...would this be caused by oil leaking thrue the clutch side crank seal while it isnt running and building up..and then when i crank it burning up a puddle of oil? if this sounds right to you guys what is a good brand of seals...or should i only use honda seals
current rides
82' ATC110
85' ATC310R
85' ATC250R
85' ATC250ES
16' brute force 750
First Time Rider
Arm chair racerNew to the board
It will die when you turn the screw all the way in because you just cut off all air which makes it run rich. If there was an air leak in the manifold area, the air screw may not have an effect so it doesn't sound like an air leak there. If it's running rich (black and fould plug) then either lean the air fuel screw (counter clockwise), drop the main jet size or lower the neddle clip. It can also foul a plug from a bad crank seal, sucking trans oil. The key to setting the air/fuel mixture correctly is simply trial and error. I explained how I do it earlier. As far as smoke, both my R's smoke more when you first start them and at idel and one of them probably has less than 50 original hours on it. I believe that is normal, the rings and piston expand as the engine warms creating a better seal. As far as the seal kit, I just got a set of TUSK for less than $20 shipped to the door, they look like good seals to me but you sure couldn't do better than Honda so it's up to you. I haven't seen the results of your leak down test? I'm guessing you did one since your buying seals...
Power User
Teaching quads a lesson
i havent done a leak test i dont even know what the leak tester looks like lol...i was just assuming i had a good theory on what was going on...and i see what you mean about them smokeing more at start up...but i mean it fills my entire back yard up ...just seems like way to much for it to be normal and i never got smoke like this till all this started happening...also if it helps ive got a 135 main jet in it...needle clip at stock position...and the air fuel screw i believe i left it at 2 and 3/4 turns out...im starting to get scared to go any leaner...
current rides
82' ATC110
85' ATC310R
85' ATC250R
85' ATC250ES
16' brute force 750
First Time Rider
Arm chair racerNew to the board
I would also assume your theory is theoretically correct BUT you really need to diagnose the problem. Here you go:
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ight=leak+down
and
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ight=leak+down
Power User
Roostin Away
Mine did a similar thing and it was seals. Really look close at the oil around the exhaust. Tranny oil is more black, but 2 stroke oil is more blue. Plus you will see the tranny oil on the plug when it is getting fouled,it can easily be mistaken for carbon, but it is actually oil.
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