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Thread: Tri Z frustration, Please help

  1. #1
    rice is offline New to the board Arm chair racerNew to the board
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    Apr 2012
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    Tri Z frustration, Please help

    Been ing on the rear axle for about 3 hours now trying to get it out of the carrier. I cut a hole in my 1" steel plate table to sit the axle in so i can directly down onto something solid, used heat from acetaline torch, Sledge hundreds of times, penetrating oil....

    Can anyone tell me exactly how this is supposto come apart? it looks like their is 3 pieces that make up the sprocket. The actual sprocket, the gold colored hub, and a spline part that should come off. Am i right? Is there anything else i should try? Thanks in advance...

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Tenn
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    548
    I think there is a thread on it somewhere. But. Everything on the sprocket side comes off and the brake side of the axle slides out. They can be a pain at times. It may need more heat but seems I read that if heat is used not to cool it in water because of the type of metal it was. I have heard that if you get everything off on the sprocket side, you can put the axle nut back on the axle till it's flush to protect the threads and then hold the carrier and slam it on a large piece of wood to help separate it. Use penetrating oil as well. Hope this helps.
    Just-Tri-It

    :Trikes Owned:
    1985 Tri-z's 3
    1986 Tri-z
    1984 YTM 200ERN 1

  3. #3
    Mosh is offline I'm the one with all the 2 stroke around here! The day begins with 3WW
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    This typical of Z and Banshee carriers. The bearings last so long in those that many times they are 15 years old or even older and evrything is fuzed with mud and rust. I have been there a few times.
    I use a 25 ton press to press the axle out while supporting the carrier. A few times I have even had to use torches to heat the axle and then press. There have been 2 times after all that, I had to scrap everything and buy replacements. Z Carriers are cheap on ebay and so are stock Banshee axles. I wouldnt sweat it if you have to start over with different parts.
    Here is where my long useless list of stuff nobody cares about should go...


    Proudly NOT a member of

    "Team on the Teat"

  4. #4
    rice is offline New to the board Arm chair racerNew to the board
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    Thanks Guys, I f***ed with it until 1am, Then brought it to a machine shop with a press this morning and good as new.

    Took it for a spin about 20 miles then it quit, It sounded like it was running out of gas for about 30 seconds then died. I swaped the carb with another one that worked last week and i cant get it to start. Spark is good, compression good, Even giving gas directly to the carb it wont fire, Any ideas? Im working on it now

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Tenn
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    They can be fickle till you get em right. If it has good compression and fire that's good. It doesn't take much to flood one, don't over prime it. If it's got a good spark then its firing though it could be flooded and will take a few kicks to clear it. When you prime it try to start it without giving it gas til it starts to hit. I've had 6 Tri-z's and everyone of them were a little different on start up. One could not be throttled at all till it hit, or it wouldn't hit. May have to get a fresh plug.
    Hope this helps.
    Just-Tri-It

    :Trikes Owned:
    1985 Tri-z's 3
    1986 Tri-z
    1984 YTM 200ERN 1

  6. #6
    rice is offline New to the board Arm chair racerNew to the board
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    Thanks for the tips... Turns out the spark is too weak... I had about a teaspoon of water in the stator side. I hope to get a flywheel puller tomorrow and have a look.

    Any experience with a little water in there? I would think they could handle that but I may be wrong...

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