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Thread: 1984 ATC250r break in

  1. #16
    HondaRidr's Avatar
    HondaRidr is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Salt Lake
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    343
    Did you replace the flywheel bolt? When I rebuilt my tecate I got a oem flywheel bolt and it ended up being too long. I found out when the woodruff key sheared the first time I started it.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    lincoln
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    25
    Quote Originally Posted by RIDE-RED 250r View Post
    That stinks. Gotta have the right key in there or the flywheel will not seat on the tapered crankshaft properly and loosen up. The flywheel is mainly secured by the tapered shaft fit. The key is really only there for proper flywheel position on the crank for correct ignition timing. The key isn't bearing much of the load of the flywheel.
    That's why I was puzzled on the situation. Two more ordered yesterday.

    Would a video help at all?

    Through the throttle range, there is basically no "non-powerband" in that it takes off and doesnt slow down all through the throttle range. It isnot fouling plugs, though it is running a bit rich. Is this abnormal, or do I have a well build engine? I have a video here: http://www.yourfilelink.com/get.php?fid=800830 You will have to download it, I promise it is safe.

    Also, I was unable to replicate the WOT bogging issue. I seem to remember using a lot of oil that made it's way into the crankcase during the rebuild so i suspect it has been working itself out.
    Last edited by 30rack; 05-04-2012 at 06:36 PM.
    1984 ATC250R #1

    Maxxi crank and transmission bearings
    Wiseco piston
    bored 6 times out
    DG type 2 exhaust
    power reeds
    K&N air filter
    mongoose stator

    1984 ATC250R #2
    Boss crank and transmission bearings
    Wiseco piston
    bored 7 times out
    hollowed out factory expansion chamber

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