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Thread: 185s busted pullstart

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    New Castle, PA
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    185s busted pullstart

    Hi. my first trike (last year) was a crap 185s that ran fine but had the worst fenders and flat tires i'd ever seen. i decided to fix it up and i've gotten to the pullstart. from yanking on the starter with no decompression cable, the internals have finally split. can i weld it back together or should i just buy another one?
    1983 212x "Mickey Dunlap" Powroll TT Trike -Blue frame, Supertrapp (looking for a Powroll DD), WEB Stage II cam, Powroll 6mm stroker, Wiseco 10.25:1 piston stock bore, ported, polished, +2 Swinger,White low-pros and 250R front fender, BAPP rear shock, Powroll Decals, NOS Carlisle R/A's

    Gone:
    '83 185s, '86 200x, '70's Full Suspension Hi-Performance ATC RD400,

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    N Hollywood/ CA
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    588
    What internal part? if it's the little wall that holds the spring I would weld. It's a mud bogger trike.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Sarnia, Ontario, Canada
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    3,415
    Buying another one is easier said than done in some areas..this part alone can make a $100 parts machine pay for itself.

    Now you say 'the internals have finally split'..that isn't too descriptive, should we assume you haven't opened it up yet to see what broke?

    If not, do it man!! These things are worth the time to repair in most cases.
    Current toys..
    1986 Honda 350X..trail bomb!
    1985 Honda 250SX..my main mudder
    1985 Honda 250ES..Back in Black Trike
    Current non-trike toys:
    1990 Honda TRX300FW
    1995 Seadoo GTX
    1998 Polaris Indy Lite 340(Nearly new looking)
    1998 Polaris Touring 500
    1998 Club Car (electric)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    NEPA
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    I have new pulleys for like $60,,complete internals,every single piece except the housing for like $80. These are available online cheaper I think? Welding them and grinding smooth won't work. years and years of experience have taught us this!
    Please help those who cannot help themselves.

    ALWAYS buying Museum quality machines,3 and 4 wheels. And any and ALL ,NOS parts,EVERY brand.

    I am turning my PM's Off,my Email is billsracing@hotmail.com,put 3WW in the subject. Thanx!

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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Waterloo IL
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    I'm guessing he means that area of the pulley that holds the ratchet dogs spit off from the main part of the pulley. This happened to a friend of mine. He welded it back together. It looked pretty much the same but he should have clamped it tightly together before welding. It seems he gained a little bit of thickness which caused it to bind when put back together. So if you do weld it, make sure it it clamped tightly together.
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  6. #6
    Howdy's Avatar
    Howdy is offline Putting Priorities in Order, Busier than ever. Catch me if you can
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blown 331 View Post
    I'm guessing he means that area of the pulley that holds the ratchet dogs spit off from the main part of the pulley. This happened to a friend of mine. He welded it back together. It looked pretty much the same but he should have clamped it tightly together before welding. It seems he gained a little bit of thickness which caused it to bind when put back together. So if you do weld it, make sure it it clamped tightly together.
    I have tried welding and or brazing quite a few of these with very limited success ( 1-2 ). They have to be clamped tight and they must be centered dead on or your wasting time.
    Howdy

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