1996 chevy tahoe front axel seals

[TecateDan]

Truck turned 205K recently and the only leak is the front axel seals. How hard is it to replace these? any tips tricks or other parts I should replace while Im in there. Hear this is quite common so I know someone on here must have done this before

[bowtieboy]

When I bought by 97 k1500 from the father in law, he had just had a shop re seal it. If i recall he didnt get charged that much. I would have done it myself but he already took it in before I could open my mouth. Prob the hardest part will be breaking the ball joints loose, other than that it looks like an easy job. Wouldnt hurt to check everything over pretty well such as unit bearings, ball joints, tie rods, idler/pit man arm etc etc.

[TecateDan]

When I bought by 97 k1500 from the father in law, he had just had a shop re seal it. If i recall he didnt get charged that much. I would have done it myself but he already took it in before I could open my mouth. Prob the hardest part will be breaking the ball joints loose, other than that it looks like an easy job. Wouldnt hurt to check everything over pretty well such as unit bearings, ball joints, tie rods, idler/pit man arm etc etc.

I don't think u even have to take the wheel off. from what I've seen. Already redid teh whole front end last year :-)

[bowtieboy]

maybe we are talking of different things?

mine was leaking on the axle tube that bolts to the differential housing.

[briano]

Remove the bolts that hold the cv axle to the flanges, remove sway bar links and swing the cv axles as far forward as they will go. For the drivers side you have to pry down on the differential a little bit but the axle stub will fit out between the frame, it is a tight fit but it will go. On the passenger side I take the 5 bolts out of the axle tube that bolt it to the differential and the 2 bolts that hold it to the frame and take it to the bench. There is a washer that falls down when you just pull the axle stub on this side, that's why taking the tube off is easier.