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Thread: Atc 110 broken shift arm

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Iowa
    --
    9

    Atc 110 broken shift arm

    Today I was riding for the first time after rebuild, it ran good and shifted fine then I noticed it wouldnt stay in gear very often. I took it apart and the arm that holds the shift drum in gear was broken again. Now when I got this it had a broken arm so I replaced and now this ones broke, could anyone tell me what is causing this. Shifting down to fast? Worn out clutch? Any ideas would be great.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Pacific NW
    --
    4,255
    I've got one that actually broke off the
    alum casting the shft drum stopper bolts to.

    Try the search key.
    It should give you tons of info real fast.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    fingerlakesny
    --
    2,834
    is that a honda 110 ? i had a kawi klt 200 that did the same exact thing and i was real easy on the shifts ... but i got tired of working on it and swapped it off so i dont know "the rest of the story "
    our original 85 we bought new, 2 - 86 police specials
    250r dust runner
    04 Yamaha kodiaK 450 snowbuster ! Brute Force 750 dust collector .
    Bunch of es stuff I been buying for next builds....
    Gone but lives on in my aching body the mighty 350x collection . A Beat 85 es im gonna rebuild

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    MN
    --
    3,263
    I have dealt with a 110 and a 125 with this problem, both of which were not being ridden hard. I think its a combination of a really overstiff spring and a soft steel arm that just can't take the leverage against it, they always seem to break at the turn. The last one that broke and was brought to me i found the piece that snapped off in the bottom of the right case and i removed the shift stopper arm or what was left of it and took it to the bench. I beveled the edges of the two pieces to get a good weld between them and then ground both sides smooth and overlayed a small piece of steel on both sides to act like a cross brace and then welded those on and then ground everything down smooth and cleaned it up at the bench grinder with a wire wheel. Those two extra pieces added a ton of strength to it.

    Honestly its just a design flaw. If they would have made the arm a little stronger it would be better, like i did. But the problem is if you make that stopper stronger and you shift it hard and pound on it then chances are you will break the boss off the case eventually. I have seen that too. I had to work on a 125 that got snapped off, luckily all the parts were inside and i got them all out, took the whole thing to a local shop that can weld aluminum and had them weld the boss back on, i had to tear it down and remove the clutch assembly and gears to get room so they could weld all the way around it, then i just ran a tap through to clean up the threads then put it back together. So far so good.

    Not sure how one could engineer a fix to stop it from happening, its just a bad design.
    ---------------------------------------------------------
    1984 Honda ATC200ES "Big Red"
    1982 ATC200E "Hondie"
    1988 TRX300FW "Project Quad" Still in progress....

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    South Florida
    --
    6,786
    Yes a very common prob from the 50cc-125cc honda . I had a brand new trx 90 recently with 0 hours were it broke on the first heat cycle
    78 atc 90/180cc Dickson Full Suspension
    76 ATC90/180cc Nicholson
    77 atc 90 Dickson Full Suspension
    84 KLT 110/123cc Powroll Racer from 80s
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    83 atc70/108cc Powroll blue Xmas Special
    81 atc185s HP-ATC full suspension

    Performance Shop is Open PM me for Service

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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Iowa
    --
    9
    The Honda dealer said I had something binding in there to cause it to break but now I know I'm not at fault. What are opinions on weakening the spring a bit.

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