Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: Any hope for saving this swingarm?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    New Castle, PA
    --
    1,134

    Question Any hope for saving this swingarm?

    The pics below are of my 83 X swinger, which i felt needed the bearings replaced. I took it apart only to find that the who inside was rusted out, bearings and almost everything. the long tube inside was in ok shape, but where the bearings sit it was very rough. im trying to find a replacement that is relatively cheap. plus, whenever I tried to remove the old bearings, all i got was lots of small needle-bearing pieces, all rusted and providing basically no support. just wondering if i will be able to save the swinger, without having to buy a eBay one. maybe i can drill out the old bearings?
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	001.jpg 
Views:	25 
Size:	202.2 KB 
ID:	157598Click image for larger version. 

Name:	002.jpg 
Views:	27 
Size:	205.6 KB 
ID:	157599
    1983 212x "Mickey Dunlap" Powroll TT Trike -Blue frame, Supertrapp (looking for a Powroll DD), WEB Stage II cam, Powroll 6mm stroker, Wiseco 10.25:1 piston stock bore, ported, polished, +2 Swinger,White low-pros and 250R front fender, BAPP rear shock, Powroll Decals, NOS Carlisle R/A's

    Gone:
    '83 185s, '86 200x, '70's Full Suspension Hi-Performance ATC RD400,

  2. #2
    Xfile's Avatar
    Xfile is offline Just Too Addicted Arm chair racerJust too addicted
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Shiocton, Wisconsin
    --
    700
    I dont recommend this unless your good with a cutting torch....but if you heat a line of metal in the outer bearing race red hot (it will heat much faster than the swing arm material) and then give it a quick blast of oxygen it will blow a line in the bearing race metal and you can peel them right out. I've done 5 or so like that now with no problems. You can pick up the complete bearing kit with center collar from all balls bearings for about $40.
    Don't worry...just run watcha brung...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Southern MN
    --
    1,875
    I see you have the outer race slightly folded in, and it dosent look too rusty on that side, so there is hope! First thing to do is get a good penetrating oil, the best is 50/50 mix of power steering fluid and acetone. Mix them in a container, and shake it up real good. You can put it in a spray bottle if you want. Otherwise try PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench, they are 10X better than wd 40. Soak both sides real good overnight or longer, if you feel is necessary. Next thing to do is get a torch, I used just a propane, and it was worked for me. Heat the outside of the swingarm where the bearing sits, do one side at a time. Heat it for a long time if using a propane torch, at least 5 minutes, it needs to get HOT! Once its really hot, use a punch or chissel or whatever you use to hit them. I used the inside steel tube, and it worked good but wrecked it. I was going to use the plastic delrin bushings anyway, so it didnt matter to me. If you didnt chew the bearings up too bad, get it hot and they will come out!
    I have had one that I had to use a Sawsall on, it worked, but you have to be careful, and be prepared to destroy the teeth on a few blades. Other option is to bring it to a shop, where they will use a large drill bit in the drill press, slightly larger that the OD of the bearing race. The bearing will catch and spin out if your lucky.
    Last option is a special tool called a blind bearing puller. There are two designs, one with a slide , and one where you just use a punch and . They are a universal type tool, and come with different size collets. Its hard to say if it will work in this application, but if an auto parts store around you has them for rent it may be worth a shot.
    Good luck, and let us know how you get them out!

    Heres a link to what a blind bearing puller is - this is a cheap one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/5PC-BLIND-HO...11119f&vxp=mtr
    THE 80's RAGE! Currently owns:
    81, 85 Yamaha Tri Moto 125
    83 Yamaha Tri Moto 200 x2
    82,83 Yamaha Tri Moto 175 project
    85 Yamaha Tri Z 250
    84 Kawasaki Tecate 250
    84 Honda ATC 70
    85 Honda ATC 350X
    84 Honda ATC 250R
    (2) 84 Honda ATC 200x
    82, 83 Honda ATC 185s
    81 ATC 200
    Lots of other parts and bikes

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Oshawa, On, Canada
    --
    2,123
    I use a long 3/8 extension with a socket on it that is a tiny bit smaller then the ID of the bearings, it will work better then a punch. Good luck, it is savable.
    1985 Honda 250r x2
    1986 Honda 250r
    1986 Honda 250sx
    1985 Honda 250sx x2
    1985 Honda 350x x2
    1986 Honda 350x
    1984 Honda 125m x4
    1983 Honda atc 70 w/ Lifan 125
    1984 Honda atc 70
    Yamaha tri zinger
    Yamaha 4 zinger
    Brap braaaap

    http://www.youtube.com/user/3wheelsoffroad

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    North Dakota
    --
    1,643
    Last resort like what I ended up doin a few times. Dremel tool just be extremely careful!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Southern Oregon Coast
    --
    932
    The key is to relieve the tension of the race if you aren't able to get a bite on it to punch it out. Like others said, either heat it up and cut a line, whether its a cutting torch (makes me nervous) or a fine chisel to cut through the red hot race. Also, as 90guy said, a dremel could work. I would grind/sand/file a thin spot in the race until you just barely get through. You don't want to enlarge your swing arm pivot bore, or misshape it. That should create enough of a gap to let it release. Just take your time and be patient.

//ArrowChat Integreation Code //